Fish Tacos

Every season is taco season.

In the middle of winter – also known as the cold lull between holiday festivities-past and the hopeful warming signs of spring to come – the days are often spent seeking indoor diversions, while our imaginations lead us to warm and sunny destinations. Look no further than the kitchen for immediate real-life respite. It may be yucky outside, but we can bring fun and lightness to our dinner with a heap of fresh and messy food, where eating with our hands gets a green light, and all the attention is focused on the kitchen table, which is, essentially, the center of our winter universe

It’s time to make tacos.

These fish tacos are bright and healthy, inviting everyone to dig in and assemble their own food. They are wonderfully flexible, too, requiring year-round ingredients with a smattering of easy toppings and drizzles that can be prepared in advance, along with an optional salsa fresca that can either be homemade or store bought. Choose lean, mild-flavored white-fish fillets that are firm and flakey when cooked, such as halibut. Mahi-mahi, snapper, ling cod, sea bass, and grouper are good alternative choices.

Fish Tacos

Makes 8 tacos
Active time: 40 minutes
Total time: 40 minutes, plus standing time

Slaw:
1/2 small head red cabbage, shredded
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
2 thin scallions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon honey
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Crema:
1 cup whole milk Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 small garlic clove, pushed through a press
1/2 teaspoon runny honey
1/2 teaspoon Sriracha
Pinch of kosher salt

Salsa Fresca (optional):
8 ounces grape tomatoes or Roma tomatoes, finely chopped
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded, finely chopped
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 garlic clove, minced or pushed through a press
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of sugar, optional

Tacos:
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 1/2 pounds center-cut halibut fillets, cut in 1-inch strips
Extra-virgin olive oil
8 (8-inch) flour or corn tortillas, warmed or toasted
Avocado slices, cilantro sprigs, and lime wedges for serving

1. Make the slaw: Combine the cabbage, cilantro, and scallions in a bowl. Whisk the lime juice, oil, honey, cumin, salt, and black pepper in a small bowl. Pour over the cabbage and stir to coat. Taste for seasoning. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow the flavors to develop.

2. Make the crema: Combine the crema ingredients in a small bowl and stir to blend. Refrigerate until use.

3. Make the salsa: Combine the salsa ingredients in a bowl. Stir to combine, then taste for seasoning. Let stand for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to develop or refrigerate until use.

4. Prepare the tacos: Combine the cumin, paprika, salt, black pepper, and cayenne in a small bowl. Place the fish on a large plate and lightly coat on all sides with oil. Sprinkle the spices over the fish, gently turning to coat.

5. Heat 1 to 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Arrange the fish in the skillet, without overcrowding and in batches as necessary. Cook until opaque through the center, 4 to 5 minutes, turning once with a spatula. Transfer to a platter.

6. To assemble, place 2 to 3 strips of fish on a warm tortilla. Top with some of the slaw and drizzle with the crema. Serve with avocado, additional cilantro, lime wedges, and salsa fresca (if using)

Turkey Meatball Soup

Double comfort with cheese on top

This recipe is a comfort food two-fer – a warming soup, packed with golf ball-sized meatballs floating in a nourishing broth. Steamy soup with bobbing meatballs couldn’t be more comforting, right? Well, try adding heaps of shredded cheese to the mix, and then you should simply call it a day, put on your pajamas, and grab a spoon.

This recipe is inspired by Italian Wedding Soup, a classic Italian-American vegetable and meatball soup (the term “wedding” refers to the marriage of its ingredients, not the celebration of a romantic union). The meatballs are traditionally made with beef or pork, which mingle with humble aromatics and greens in chicken stock. For extra substance, pasta may be included in the soup.

This recipe also invites iterations. The meatballs can be made of chicken, turkey, beef, or pork. I’ve omitted the pasta and amped up the flavor of the broth and meatballs with copious amounts of cheese. While Parmesan is a popular go-to, the salty sharpness of Pecorino Romano adds oomph and flavor to the meatballs. A hunk of cheese rind is also added to the broth (which is a humble and effective no-waste technique to build flavor and body) accentuating the cheesy-umami richness of the meatballs.

Feel free to use this recipe as a template and make your own modifications depending on what you have in your fridge. For instance, if you have some post-Thanksgiving turkey stock use that for the base of the soup. Or switch out the ground turkey for ground chicken to make the meatballs. If you would like to add some pasta, try orzo or a small tubular pasta, such as ditalini, and note that you may need to add more stock, since the pasta will absorb some liquid as it cooks. If you don’t have homemade stock on hand, a good quality chicken stock will easily stand in for a quick weeknight dinner.

Cheesy Turkey Meatball Soup

Serves: 4 to 5, makes about 16 meatballs
Active time: 45 minutes
Total time: 45 minutes, plus chilling time

Meatballs:
1 pound ground turkey (or chicken)
1/3 cup Panko bread crumbs
1/4 cup packed finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese
2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley leaves
1 large garlic clove, minced
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

Soup:
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 large carrot, sliced
1 celery stalk, diced
Kosher salt
5 to 6 cups chicken stock
1 (2-inch) chunk Parmesan rind
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups spinach leaves or coarsely chopped kale leaves
Grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese for sprinkling

1. Combine the meatball ingredients in a bowl and mix to blend. Form into 1-inch meatballs, flatten slightly, and place on a plate. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a deep skillet or soup pot. Add the meatballs in one layer without overcrowding, in batches if necessary. Brown on both sides, turning when they release easily from the pan, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with a paper towel. (They will finish cooking in the soup.)
3. Add 1 tablespoon oil to the pan. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and a pinch of salt to the skillet and sauté until the vegetables are bright and tender, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring up any brown bits. Add the stock, cheese, bay leaf, thyme, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and the black pepper. Partially cover the pot and simmer over medium heat for about 15 minutes. Add the meatballs and continue to cook until the meatballs are fully cooked, 8 to 10 minutes more. Stir in the greens and cook until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper if desired. Ladle into bowls and serve with the cheese for sprinkling.

Spicy Shrimp Tacos

Beat the weather with these spicy tacos.

The bleaker the weather, the brighter the food, I say. January can be a cold, wet, and dark second act following the holiday season. A perfect antidote is to create light and vibrant food to ward off the seasonal blues and balance out any holiday excess. These tacos channel the south and beyond the border with blackened shrimp piled on Baja-inspired tacos. They are vibrant and wholesome; not bogged down by any heavy sauces, cheeses, and meat. A citrusy salsa and fresh avocado are light and healthy accompaniments refreshing in their simplicity. The tacos are easy to prepare, only requiring just a fair amount of chopping, which is a simple activity that distracts from any inclement weather outside. And, perhaps best of all, they are fun to eat, inviting interaction and hands-on noshing.

The blackened spice blend is meant to have heat, but feel free to adjust the cayenne to your taste. In fact, make a double batch to keep on hand to season fish and chicken for later meals. Store any remaining spice blend in a jar in your pantry.

Spicy Shrimp Tacos
Serves: 4
Active time: 25 minutes
Total time: 25 minutes

Crema:
2/3 cup whole milk Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon Sriracha, or to taste
Pinch of kosher salt

Salsa:
1 cup grape tomatoes, chopped
1 cup defrosted frozen yellow corn
1 small poblano pepper, seeded, finely diced
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 small garlic clove, minced
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Spices:
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

24 large (18/20) shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails intact optional
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 large ripe but firm avocado, halved, sliced crosswise
Flour or corn tortillas, warmed
Cilantro leaves for garnish
Lime wedges

  1. Whisk the crema ingredients in a bowl. Refrigerate until use.
  2. In a separate bowl combine the salsa ingredients, and then taste for seasoning.
  3. Combine the spices in a small bowl. Toss the shrimp with 1 tablespoon oil in a large bowl. Add the spices and stir to thoroughly coat the shrimp.
  4. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a cast iron pan over medium heat. Carefully arrange the shrimp in one layer in the pan, without over-crowding (in batches if necessary). Cook until charred and cooked through the center, about 4 minutes, turning once.
  5. To serve, arrange a few slices of avocado on a warmed tortilla. Spoon some of the salsa over, then top with shrimp. Drizzle with some of the crema. Garnish with cilantro and serve with the lime wedges for squeezing.

Curried Chicken Stew

A curried holiday time-out

Do you need a holiday time-out? When we are in the eye of the storm, a.k.a. the lull between December and New Year celebrations, it helps to step off the conveyor belt of planning, cooking, baking, and entertaining. Take a break and fix up something easy, healthy, and decidedly (not) holiday inspired. Make a fragrant warming curry and call it a culinary break.

I use the term “curry” loosely since this recipe is hardly authentic. An authentic curry consists of a mountain of whole spices and aromatics, carefully and lovingly toasted, ground, sautéed, and coaxed to create a potent paste that forms the base of a stew which simmers for an ample amount of time to infuse its flavor. (I highly recommend doing this, by the way, but suggest you wait until after the holidays.)

This yellow curry rendition gets its name thanks to a generous short-cut dump of curry powder into the soup, which in the category of quick meals does the trick. It’s a healthy soup, brimming with vegetables and thickened with coconut milk, and it’s a one-pot wonder, prepared in about 30 minutes. During a month of roasts, bakes, sauces, and icings, this soup is a spicy and refreshing hiatus, guaranteed to warm and restore before you get back to the business of any holiday festivities.

Curried Chicken Stew

Active Time: about 35 minutes
Total Time: about 35 minutes
Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 to 1 1/4 pounds chicken breast or thighs, cut into bite-size pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 large carrot, sliced 1/4–inch thick
1 medium red bell pepper, seeded, chopped
1 poblano pepper, seeded and chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced or pushed through a press
1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 (28-ounce) can Italian plum tomatoes with juice
1 (15-ounce) can coconut milk (not light)
2 cups coarsely chopped curly green kale, Tuscan kale, or spinach leaves (tough stems removed)
1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves plus more for garnish
1 red or green jalapeño pepper, thinly sliced

1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a wide pot or deep skillet. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and add to the pot in one layer without overcrowding. Cook over medium heat until the chicken colors on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes, turning as needed. Remove the chicken from the pot and set aside on a plate. (The chicken will not be fully cooked at this point. It will continue to cook when added to the stew.)

2. Add 1 tablespoon oil and the onion to the same pot. Sauté over medium heat until the onion softens, about 2 minutes. Add the carrot and peppers and sauté until the carrot brightens in color and the peppers begin to soften, about 3 minutes more. Add the garlic and ginger and sauté until fragrant, 15 to 30 seconds. Add the curry powder, cumin, and coriander, stirring to coat the vegetables and lightly toast the spices for about 15 seconds. Pour in the tomatoes, coconut milk, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Partially cover the pot and simmer over medium-low until the vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally and breaking up the tomatoes with a wooden spoon.

3. Return the chicken to the pot and stir in the kale or spinach. Continue to simmer until the chicken is thoroughly cooked through and the leaves wilt, about 5 minutes more. Stir in the 1/4 cup cilantro and taste for seasoning.

4. Ladle the curry into bowls. Garnish with additional cilantro and the jalapeño slices.

Cheese Fondue

Cheese fondue – a taste of the Alps

When the rural inhabitants of Swiss and French mountainous villages devised a warming winter dish incorporating their local cheese and white wine, little did they know it would become an international dinner party hit. It’s no wonder why this dish has crossed borders. During the cold and dark months, it’s universally appealing to hunker down and cozy up by the fire, and when you can bring the fire to your dinner table for a meal that encourages and embraces interaction, warmth, and – best of all – a cauldron of melted cheese, it’s hard to resist.

I lived in Switzerland for 10 years, where I had my fair share of fondues. Depending on the region, fondues may vary in terms of the cheese used, favoring the local cow’s milk cheese produced, or additional ingredients (such as porcini mushrooms or even tomato purée*). While the ingredients may veer slightly, the tradition remains firmly in place, and fondue is unquestionably a national dish. I had plenty of time to practice the technique of making fondue, and this recipe is my takeaway which has become our family tradition. It takes inspiration from the traditional Swiss method with just a few tweaks (apologies, my Swiss friends). For instance, fruity Calvados (apple brandy) is substituted for the traditional kirsch. And, in addition to serving the fondue only with bread, as the Swiss insist, I pass bowls of parboiled baby potatoes, broccoli, and cauliflower florets for dipping (a great way to get your kids to eat their vegetables) and serve other alpine accompaniments, such as dried meats and cornichons on the side (as I said, mes excuses, my Swiss friends). What should not be tweaked – and where I will put my American foot down – is the provenance of the cheese: Purchase the best quality, cave-aged Swiss or French alpine cheese you can find, such as Gruyère, Emmental, Vacherin Fribourgeois, Comté, or Beaufort, and feel free to blend them to your taste. I like to use a blend of 2/3 Gruyère and 1/3 Emmental or Comté. 

Depending on how long the cheese is aged, flavor can range from a young, mild, and creamy cheese to an aged piquant cheese with earthy, nutty, and/or salty notes. Aim for an aged alpine cheese, especially when you are using Gruyère, which will add nuance and an earthy-umami depth of flavor to your pot of cheese.

*Yes, that is indeed a tomato fondue, which is a popular iteration in the Valais region or canton. It’s delicious, and high on my must-make list. I promise I’ll publish the recipe when I’ve made it.

Alpine Cheese Fondue

Serves 6
Active time: 25 minutes
Total time: 25 minutes

Note: Have all your ingredients ready before you begin. Once you begin, the fondue will come together quickly, and during this time it must be constantly stirred. The fondue must not come to a boil during this time.

1/4 cup Calvados brandy
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for serving
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
3 cups dry, un-oaked white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 1/2 pounds alpine cheese, such as Gruyère and Emmental, coarsely grated
1 loaf country style or levain bread, cut in 3/4-inch cubes

1. Whisk the Calvados, cornstarch, salt, black pepper, and nutmeg in a small bowl, until smooth. Set aside.
2. Combine the wine and garlic in a large heavy saucepan, Dutch oven, or fondue pot. Heat over medium heat until tiny bubbles form, giving the wine a fizzy appearance, without coming to a boil. 
3. Add the cheese, one handful at a time, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until each handful is melted before adding the next. When all the cheese is added, continue stirring for about one minute to slightly thicken – do not let the fondue boil during this entire process.
4. Stir in the cornstarch mixture and continue to stir until the cheese thickens to a fondue consistency. (Note: Some cornstarch brands thicken more easily than others. If your fondue remains thin, whisk 1 more tablespoon cornstarch with 2 tablespoons white wine and stir into the cheese.) 
5. When the fondue is ready, remove from the heat. Pour the cheese into a warm fondue pot if necessary and place over a fondue burner. Serve immediately with extra ground pepper, the bread, and parboiled vegetables such as small potatoes, cauliflower, and broccoli florets.

Beef Stew with a Splash of Irish

A Simple Stew with Big Flavor

Here is something for your winter dinner rotation: Chunky vegetables and slow-cooked beef swimming in a stock of beef and beer. This hearty no-nonsense beef stew is a must-have for a dreary winter night, and with St. Patrick’s Day around the corner, you can dump a bottle of Guinness into the stock and call it Irish. And, while this stew is indeed simple and humble in ingredients, there are a couple of important steps you can take when making this recipe that will reward you with deep flavor.

The first step, as with many meat stews and braises, is to take the time to sear the meat well before braising. Searing the meat caramelizes its natural sugars and forms a crust, which adds rich meaty flavor to the stock. And note that searing does not mean a quick color and flip. It means taking the time to thoroughly brown the meat well on all sides, which can take up to 8 minutes. Also, do not overcrowd the pan with all of the meat at once when searing. Crowding will steam the meat and prevent the desired browning, so be patient and divide the meat into batches to sear.

Second, while you can certainly make and serve this stew in one day, it will taste even better if you make the stew a day in advance of eating. I know, I know, waiting is a big ask, but the flavors will continue to meld and develop when the stew is refrigerated overnight. Not only that, by refrigerating the stew ahead, the next day you will find that the fat has risen to the top and solidified, so it can be lifted off with ease and discarded, leaving you with a pristine stock.

So, go ahead and treat yourself to this warm and comforting stew, and while you’re at it, why not make a double batch? Any leftovers can be frozen for up to one month. It’s guaranteed to taste good.

Simple Beef Stew

Active Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 3 1/2 hours
Serves 4 to 6

2 1/2 pounds beef chuck, excess fat trimmed, cut into 1-inch pieces
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
, divided
1 large shallot, finely chopped, about 1/4 cup
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 1/2 cups dark beer, such as Porter or Stout, divided
1/4 cup tomato paste
3 cups beef or chicken stock
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 large carrots, sliced 1/4-inch thick
2 medium Yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1-inch chunks
1 large yellow onion, cut into 1-inch chunks

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Season the beef with salt and pepper.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the beef in batches in one layer, without overcrowding, and brown on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the meat to a plate and repeat with remaining beef.
3. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from the Dutch oven. Add the shallot and sauté until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds more. Add 1/4 cup beer to the pot and bring to a boil, scraping up any brown bits with a spoon. When the beer is nearly evaporated, add the tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until slightly caramelized, about 1 minute. Return the beef to the pot and stir to coat.
4. Add the remaining 1 cup beer, the stock, bay leaf, sugar, thyme, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon black pepper. The meat should be just covered with liquid. If not, add additional stock to cover. Bring to a boil, then cover the pot and transfer to the oven. Cook until the meat is tender, 2 to 2 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally.
5. While the meat is cooking heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the carrots and onions and lightly season with salt. Sauté until the vegetables begin to soften without browning, 4 to 5 minutes.
6. Add the carrots, onions, and the potatoes to the stew and stir to combine. Return to the oven and cook, partially covered, until the vegetables are tender and the sauce slightly thickened, 30 to 40 minutes, stirring occasionally.
7. Serve warm ladled into bowls.

Sheet Pan Chicken with Wild Mushroooms and Cippolini Onions

Sheet Pan Dinners are Sheet Pan Comfort:

Sheet Pan Comfort: Roasted Chicken Thighs with Onions and Wild Mushrooms

Bone-in chicken thighs are perfect for sheet pan cooking. They are almost impossible to overcook, and the succulent meat does not dry out, allowing the time needed to tenderize and brown additional ingredients, such as sturdy root vegetables, sweet onions, and earthy mushrooms. In this recipe I use cipollini onions. Cipollini onions are small, flattened red and yellow onions. They are sweeter and milder than their larger yellow, red, and white brethren, making them great for roasting and caramelizing. Mushrooms are also a key ingredient this dish. As they roast, their juices impart a rich umami flavor to the pan juices. Any mushroom will work, but try to choose a selection of wild mushrooms, if possible. I used a mix of shiitake, beech, king trumpet, and crimini mushrooms in this recipe. Be sure to cut them into large bite-size pieces of similar size.

Sheet Pan Chicken with Wild Mushrooms and Onions

Serves 4
Active Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 50 minutes, plus marinating time

Marinade
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 chicken thighs, bone-in with skin
1 pound red or white cipollini onions, peeled, halved crosswise
3/4 pound assorted wild mushrooms (or crimini mushrooms)
4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 thyme sprigs, plus more for garnish
3 rosemary sprigs, plus more for garnish

1. Whisk the marinade ingredients in a large bowl. Add the chicken and turn to thoroughly coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.
2. Heat the oven to 375°F.
3. Combine the onions, mushrooms, and garlic in a large bowl. Drizzle with the oil, season with the salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Spread the vegetables on a rimmed baking sheet. Nestle the chicken thighs, skin-side up, among the vegetables. Scatter the thyme and rosemary sprigs around the pan.
4. Roast in the oven until the chicken is cooked through (a meat thermometer will register 165°F when inserted in the thickest part not touching the bone), about 35 minutes. If the skin is not golden yet, turn on the oven broiler and continue to cook until the skin is golden brown, 1 to 3 minutes more.
5. Remove from the oven and discard the thyme and rosemary sprigs. Taste the mushrooms and season with additional salt if desired. Serve warm with the pan juices and fresh thyme or rosemary for garnish.

Khao Poon: Chicken, Red Curry, and Lemongrass Soup

Dip into this Lao soup for a winter escape:

Are you feeling the winter doldrums? January can be a blue time, post-holidays, when the dust settles and winter stretches ahead. It’s tempting to daydream about far-flung escapes to steamy destinations, away from the cold, snow, and darkness. Reality, of course, keeps us home for many practical reasons. So, as the saying goes, instead of cursing the dark, it’s time to light a candle – or in this case, the stove. If we can’t travel away, then we can bring the taste of travel home to our kitchen.

This is a perfect bowl for a winter day. Khao Poon is a traditional Lao soup with red curry and rice noodles, fragrant with lemongrass and coconut. It’s light, spicy, and aromatic, finished with a shower of fresh herbs, bean sprouts, and chiles to create a meal in a bowl. Chicken is frequently added, but it’s wonderfully flexible with proteins, including pork and fish, as well as tofu for a vegetarian option. And, if that’s not enough to lift your spirits, Khao Poon is a traditional celebratory soup served at Lao weddings and other festive events. So dig in to your bowl and vicariously join the party.

Chicken, Red Curry, and Lemongrass Soup with Rice Noodles

Serves 4 to 6
Active Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes

8 ounces rice vermicelli noodles
1 pound chicken thighs, cut into chunky bite-size pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 large shallot, finely chopped, about 1/4 cup
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger
3 tablespoons prepared Thai red curry paste, or more to taste
1 teaspoon ground coriander
4 to 6 cups chicken broth
1 stalk lemon grass, cut into 3 to 4-inch pieces, lightly smashed
1 (15-ounce) can light coconut milk
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 teaspoons fish sauce
2 teaspoons Asian hot sauce, such as Sriracha
2 cups bean sprouts
1 cup packed cilantro leaves and tender stems
1 red jalapeño or hot chile pepper, sliced (optional)

1. Cook the noodles according to the package instructions. Drain and rinse under cold water and set aside.
2. While the noodles are cooking, heat the oil in a soup pot. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and add to the pot, without overcrowding. Cook until colored on all sides, then transfer to a plate with a slotted spoon (the chicken will continue to cook later in the soup).
3. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon oil from the pot. Add the shallot and sauté until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds, then stir in the curry paste and coriander and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute more. Whisk in 4 cups chicken stock and lemongrass. Taste the stock, and if you prefer a spicier soup, whisk in 1 to 2 more tablespoons of the curry paste.
4. Return the chicken to the pot and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the coconut milk, lime juice, sugar, fish sauce, and hot sauce. Taste for seasoning. At this point you can dilute the stock with more chicken stock if desired. Bring to a boil and simmer until the soup is heated through.
5. Divide the rice noodles between serving bowls. Ladle the soup over the noodles. Garnish with the bean sprouts, cilantro, and red chiles. Serve with lime wedges and additional hot sauce.

Lasagna with Kale

Layer it on with this cheesy-rich lasagna:

Behold the lasagna. The cooler season begs for layers – and not just when it comes to clothing. This hefty casserole is stacked and loaded with three cheeses, a meaty tomato sauce, and – wait for it – kale. Now before you roll your eyes, realize this: the lasagna can handle it. In fact, it will put the kale leaves in their place, allowing them to shine without overtaking this admittedly non-vegetarian recipe with excessive leafiness. It will invite a layer of freshness into an otherwise robust, gooey, and dense lasagna. And if you are trying to sneak a few vegetables into someone’s diet – this may do the trick.

With that preface, let me add that this recipe can easily be made vegetarian by simply omitting the meat from the tomato sauce. The choice is yours, and both versions are delicious. I’ve provided a meat sauce in the recipe, but you can simply omit it, if you prefer. And if you have a favorite prepared sauce that you swear by, then by all means, make your life a little easier and use it.

Now, back to the layers. Layer your lasagna as high as your dish will allow. And do try including kale leaves in the mix. They will soften and melt into the lasagna, tempered by the rich cheese and bright sauce, while providing layers of freshness, color, and, of course, extra nutrients. You might even have room for seconds.

 (Note: a double recipe is photographed)

Lasagna with Kale

Active Time: 45 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour and 45 minutes
Makes one 9-inch square lasagna. For a larger rectangular lasagna (pictured), double the ingredients. 

Sauce:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 pound ground beef
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 (28-ounce) crushed Italian plum tomatoes
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Ricotta:
16 ounces whole milk ricotta
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan
2 tablespoons half and half
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 box lasagna sheets 
One bunch Tuscan (Lacinato) kale leaves, ribs removed, torn into large pieces
8 ounces fresh  mozzarella, shredded
1 cup finely grated Parmesan and/or Pecorino Romano cheese

1. Make the sauce: Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the beef (if using) and cook until lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes, stirring as needed. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 3 minutes, stirring often. Add the garlic and crushed red pepper and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the remaining sauce ingredients and simmer uncovered, for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Whisk the ricotta ingredients in a bowl until smooth.
3. Heat the oven to 375°F.
4. Spoon a thin layer of sauce in bottom of a baking dish. Place a layer of lasagna sheets over the sauce, breaking them to fit to size as necessary. Smear some of the ricotta over the lasagna sheets.  Arrange the kale leaves over the ricotta and drizzle some of the sauce over the kale. Scatter the mozzarella over the kale and sprinkle with grated cheese. Repeat the layering process, gently pressing down on the layers as you stack the lasagna. (You may not use up all of lasagna sheets).
5. Cover the dish with foil, transfer to the oven, and bake for 40 minutes. Remove the foil and continue to bake until the lasagna is sheets are tender when pierced with a knife, the cheese is bubbling, and the top is golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before cutting and serving.

Grilled Pizza with Cauliflower, Chiles, and Olives

An end of summer pizza recipe for the grill:

Cauliflower Chile Pizza

Late summer reaps a kaleidoscope of peppers. Homemade pizza is a great way to show off a fresh and feisty chile pepper combination. On this white (no tomato sauce) pizza, there are four distinctive peppers. Highly decorative Jimmy Nardello chile peppers are long, slender, and gnarly with a mild fruity flavor. Hatch chile peppers are a seasonal specialty, prolific from August through September. They are earthy and buttery in flavor and slightly smoky when roasted. If Hatch chiles are unavailable, mild Anaheim peppers are a good substitute. Poblano chile peppers are the fresh version of dried ancho peppers. When fresh they are relatively mild and earthy with a bite and are great for roasting. Calabrian chiles are small bright red peppers, round or conical in shape, with a moderately high heat level. They are available fresh and are also sold jarred in the Italian or condiment section of your grocery store. They make an excellent garnish with a kick of heat. Feel free to mix and match your own combination of peppers, depending on taste and availability, but try to include a colorful range of sweet to hot for the most flavorful result.

When possible, I make my pizza on the grill. Not only does it keep the heat outdoors in the warm weather, grilling yields a wonderful charred and smoky flavor to the crust. Bear in mind a few tips when preparing your pizza:

1. Store-bought dough is OK! I confess, that while I make my dough from scratch from time to time, I often purchase fresh pizza dough at the store to use immediately or freeze for later use. Prepared doughs are usually sold in one-pound packages, and yield one large rectangular pizza or two small round pizzas.
2. Don’t overload your pizza. If the pizza has too many toppings, it will be heavy and the crust can be soggy. The amounts below are for one large rectangular pizza, using one pound of fresh dough, thinly rolled or stretched. Have all of your ingredients prepped and ready, so that once you roll out the pizza, all you need to do is assemble. Use your judgment when layering the ingredients, and don’t feel compelled to use every last piece. When stretching the dough, it’s fine if it’s irregular in shape. The key is to make it uniform in thickness to ensure even cooking.
3. Parchment paper is your friend. I find it easiest to assemble the pizza on parchment paper, which is easy to slide on and off of the pizza stone. You can trim any excess paper around the edge of the pizza to prevent charring on the grill. If you don’t have a pizza paddle, you can use a rimless cookie sheet to slide under the paper.
4. A pizza stone is ideal. Whether you make a pizza in the oven or on the grill, a pizza stone is a terrific way to transmit the heat evenly to the bottom of the pizza. If you don’t have a pizza stone, then a perforated pizza pan or a baking sheet will also work, but the cooking times may vary.

Pizza with Roasted Cauliflower, Chile Peppers, and Green Olives

Active time: 20 minutes
Total time: 35 minutes
Makes one rectangular thin-crust pizza, approximately 10 by 15-inches

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 garlic cloves, minced
Salt
1/2 head small cauliflower, florets broken into bite-size pieces, about 1 1/2 cups
3 assorted chile peppers, such as Jimmy Nardello, Hatch, and Poblano, thinly sliced
Freshly ground black pepper
1 pound fresh pizza dough
1/2 teaspoon red chili flakes, or more to taste
1/4 cup plus 1/2 cup loosely packed finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1 pound fresh pizza dough
8 ounces fresh buffalo mozzarella (1 ovaline or 8 ciligiene balls), thinly sliced or shredded
2 Calabrian chiles, thinly sliced (or 2 tablespoons chopped jarred Calabrian chiles)
1/2 cup pitted green olives, such as Castelvetrano or Pichonline, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
Freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 500°F or prepare the grill for direct cooking over high heat. Preheat a pizza stone on the lowest oven rack or on the grill grates for at least 10 minutes.
2. Whisk 3 tablespoons olive oil, the garlic, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl.
3. Toss the cauliflower and sliced peppers with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium bowl. Lightly season with salt and black pepper and toss again.
4. Roll out or stretch the pizza dough to your desired shape and thickness on parchment paper. I prefer to stretch my dough thin in a large rectangular shape.
5. Lightly brush the dough with the garlic oil, leaving a 3/4-inch border clear around the edges. Sprinkle the red chili flakes and 1/4 cup pecorino cheese over the dough. Spread the cauliflower and peppers over the crust, keeping the border clear.
6. Arrange the mozzarella over the pizza, gently nestling around and over the vegetables. Scatter the Calabrian chilies and green olives over the top and sprinkle the remaining pecorino cheese over the pizza.
7. Slide the pizza onto the preheated pizza stone. Bake until the cauliflower is tinged, the crust is golden brown and crisp, and the cheese is melted, 13 to 15 minutes, depending on the size and thickness of the crust.
8. Transfer the pizza to a cutting board and immediately brush the crust with some of the garlic oil. Drizzle any remaining oil over the pizza. Sprinkle the lemon zest and black pepper over the pizza. Let stand 5 minutes before cutting into serving pieces.

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