Author: Lynda Balslev

Cookbook author and editor, food and travel writer, recipe developer.
Fish and Shellfish, gluten-free, Guacamole, Main Course

Fish Tacos

Featuredby Lynda Balslev3 Comments on Fish Tacos

Every season is taco season.

In the middle of winter – also known as the cold lull between holiday festivities-past and the hopeful warming signs of spring to come – the days are often spent seeking indoor diversions, while our imaginations lead us to warm and sunny destinations. Look no further than the kitchen for immediate real-life respite. It may be yucky outside, but we can bring fun and lightness to our dinner with a heap of fresh and messy food, where eating with our hands gets a green light, and all the attention is focused on the kitchen table, which is, essentially, the center of our winter universe

It’s time to make tacos.

These fish tacos are bright and healthy, inviting everyone to dig in and assemble their own food. They are wonderfully flexible, too, requiring year-round ingredients with a smattering of easy toppings and drizzles that can be prepared in advance, along with an optional salsa fresca that can either be homemade or store bought. Choose lean, mild-flavored white-fish fillets that are firm and flakey when cooked, such as halibut. Mahi-mahi, snapper, ling cod, sea bass, and grouper are good alternative choices.

Fish Tacos

Makes 8 tacos
Active time: 40 minutes
Total time: 40 minutes, plus standing time

Slaw:
1/2 small head red cabbage, shredded
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
2 thin scallions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon honey
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Crema:
1 cup whole milk Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 small garlic clove, pushed through a press
1/2 teaspoon runny honey
1/2 teaspoon Sriracha
Pinch of kosher salt

Salsa Fresca (optional):
8 ounces grape tomatoes or Roma tomatoes, finely chopped
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded, finely chopped
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 garlic clove, minced or pushed through a press
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of sugar, optional

Tacos:
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 1/2 pounds center-cut halibut fillets, cut in 1-inch strips
Extra-virgin olive oil
8 (8-inch) flour or corn tortillas, warmed or toasted
Avocado slices, cilantro sprigs, and lime wedges for serving

1. Make the slaw: Combine the cabbage, cilantro, and scallions in a bowl. Whisk the lime juice, oil, honey, cumin, salt, and black pepper in a small bowl. Pour over the cabbage and stir to coat. Taste for seasoning. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow the flavors to develop.

2. Make the crema: Combine the crema ingredients in a small bowl and stir to blend. Refrigerate until use.

3. Make the salsa: Combine the salsa ingredients in a bowl. Stir to combine, then taste for seasoning. Let stand for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to develop or refrigerate until use.

4. Prepare the tacos: Combine the cumin, paprika, salt, black pepper, and cayenne in a small bowl. Place the fish on a large plate and lightly coat on all sides with oil. Sprinkle the spices over the fish, gently turning to coat.

5. Heat 1 to 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Arrange the fish in the skillet, without overcrowding and in batches as necessary. Cook until opaque through the center, 4 to 5 minutes, turning once with a spatula. Transfer to a platter.

6. To assemble, place 2 to 3 strips of fish on a warm tortilla. Top with some of the slaw and drizzle with the crema. Serve with avocado, additional cilantro, lime wedges, and salsa fresca (if using)

Baking, cake, chocolate, holiday

Chocolate Orange Panforte

Featuredby Lynda Balslev

Panforte di Siena: A holiday cake confection

Panforte is a festive Italian cake which lives up to its name. Pan (bread) forte (strong) are apt descriptors for this dense fruit and nut-jammed cake. Its origin stretches back to Siena, Tuscany during the Middle Ages, when a bread flavored with honey and pepper was paid to the local monks as a tax. When the spice trade introduced a trove of spices to Italy through Venice, more spices were added to the bread, and it became a Christmas tradition.

Panforte is a stiff and sticky package; a jumble of nuts, fruit, and dried spice bound together by a slick of honey syrup and chocolate which hardens the cake as it cools, inching it into confection territory. As un-cakey as this might sound, panforte is delicious. The addition of dark and unsweetened chocolate balances the sugar and grounds the spice with warming earthiness. The cake is notably firm, which allows the palate some time to savor the small bites as they dissolve in the mouth. Thanks to its texture, panforte is best enjoyed in small slivers, an ideal accompaniment to coffee or an after-dinner drink, or as a wintry addition to a cheese board.

This is an all-season cake, which means, literally, it will last all season. Make it now and store it in an airtight container where it will keep for up to three weeks at room temperature, or for three months in the refrigerator.

Chocolate Orange Panforte

Makes one (8 to 9-inch cake)
Active time: 20 minutes
Total time: 50 minutes, plus cooling time

1 cup hazelnuts, toasted, skins removed, chopped
1 cup almonds, toasted, chopped
1 cup chopped dried Mission figs
1/2 cup finely chopped candied oranges
1/2 cup golden raisins
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground all-spice
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
3/4 cup honey
3/4 cup granulated sugar
3 ounces finely chopped dark (72%) chocolate
Confectioners’ sugar for garnish

1. Heat the oven to 320°F (160°C). Butter an 8 to 9-inch springform pan and line with parchment paper.

2. Combine the hazelnuts, almonds, figs, candied oranges, and raisins in a large bowl.

3. In a separate bowl, add the flour, cocoa powder, cinnamon, all-spice, ginger, black pepper, salt, coriander, cloves, and nutmeg. Whisk to blend. Pour over the nut and fruit mixture and stir to combine.

4. Combine the honey and sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, and simmer for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Turn off the heat, add the chocolate and stir until smooth.

5. Working quickly, pour the sugar mixture over the fruit and nuts. Stir to combine (the mixture will immediately stiffen; keep stirring to thoroughly combine). Spread in the prepared cake pan (it will be sticky) and smooth the top.

6. Bake in the oven for 30 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool for 30 minutes, then then remove from pan. Cool the cake completely (the cake will continue to firm up). Once cool, dust the confectioner’s sugar over the cake.

Condiment, entertaining, gluten-free, holiday, Thanksgiving, Uncategorized, Vegetarian, Winter

Cranberry Orange Chutney

Featuredby Lynda Balslev

Tradition has it that a Thanksgiving turkey dinner is not complete without a cranberry sauce. Tradition also has it that every November I find myself scratching my head, trying to reinvent a cranberry sauce. I have nothing against cranberries, mind you, nor a sauce, for that matter. I couldn’t imagine the holiday table without a heaping bowl of glistening ruby berries cooked to a sludge in a tart compote. Yet, for many years, I would make a simple cranberry sauce and present it at the table … and each year, I would wrap up the sauce after our dinner, nearly untouched, and store it in the refrigerator for goodness-knows-what future purpose.

So, now I make my cranberry sauce with a twist. If leftovers are imminent, then why not step out of the comfort zone and make a jazzy sauce that can be creatively repurposed? A straightforward cranberry sauce consists of cranberries and sugar, which (to me) is one-dimensional. I spice up my reimagined sauce, and transform it into what could also be called a chutney – in other words, a condiment that has legs: a tasty vibrant sauce that will carry me through the holiday and entertaining season.

Chutneys are a raucous slurry of dried and fresh fruit simmered with citrus and sugar, a glugg of juice or a splash of spirits, infused with winter spice and woodsy aromatics, with a kick of heat to wake up the palate. A chutney will not only provide puckery pizzazz to your Thanksgiving table, it will seamlessly multi-task beyond your turkey dinner. You can spread chutney on a sandwich, add it to a cheese and charcuterie board, dab it on cocktail crostini, or dollop it over a meaty roast. With this in mind, perhaps you should make a double recipe of this cranberry chutney for Thanksgiving. Then you will be assured of leftovers.

Cranberry Orange Chutney

Makes about 2 cups
Active time: 20 minutes
Total time: 20 minutes, plus cooling time

12 ounces cranberries (fresh or frozen)
1 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/4 cup port wine
3 coins cut from a finger of fresh ginger
1 (3-inch) sprig fresh rosemary
1 (2-inch) cinnamon stick
Zest of one orange
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Combine all the ingredients in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring frequently to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until the cranberries burst, and the chutney thickens, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. Remove from the heat and cool completely. Discard the ginger, rosemary sprig, and cinnamon stick. Transfer the chutney to a glass container and refrigerate for at least one day to allow the flavors to develop. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 1 month. Serve at room temperature.

Italy, Main Course, meatballs, one-pot, Soups and Stews

Turkey Meatball Soup

Featuredby Lynda Balslev

Double comfort with cheese on top

This recipe is a comfort food two-fer – a warming soup, packed with golf ball-sized meatballs floating in a nourishing broth. Steamy soup with bobbing meatballs couldn’t be more comforting, right? Well, try adding heaps of shredded cheese to the mix, and then you should simply call it a day, put on your pajamas, and grab a spoon.

This recipe is inspired by Italian Wedding Soup, a classic Italian-American vegetable and meatball soup (the term “wedding” refers to the marriage of its ingredients, not the celebration of a romantic union). The meatballs are traditionally made with beef or pork, which mingle with humble aromatics and greens in chicken stock. For extra substance, pasta may be included in the soup.

This recipe also invites iterations. The meatballs can be made of chicken, turkey, beef, or pork. I’ve omitted the pasta and amped up the flavor of the broth and meatballs with copious amounts of cheese. While Parmesan is a popular go-to, the salty sharpness of Pecorino Romano adds oomph and flavor to the meatballs. A hunk of cheese rind is also added to the broth (which is a humble and effective no-waste technique to build flavor and body) accentuating the cheesy-umami richness of the meatballs.

Feel free to use this recipe as a template and make your own modifications depending on what you have in your fridge. For instance, if you have some post-Thanksgiving turkey stock use that for the base of the soup. Or switch out the ground turkey for ground chicken to make the meatballs. If you would like to add some pasta, try orzo or a small tubular pasta, such as ditalini, and note that you may need to add more stock, since the pasta will absorb some liquid as it cooks. If you don’t have homemade stock on hand, a good quality chicken stock will easily stand in for a quick weeknight dinner.

Cheesy Turkey Meatball Soup

Serves: 4 to 5, makes about 16 meatballs
Active time: 45 minutes
Total time: 45 minutes, plus chilling time

Meatballs:
1 pound ground turkey (or chicken)
1/3 cup Panko bread crumbs
1/4 cup packed finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese
2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley leaves
1 large garlic clove, minced
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

Soup:
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 large carrot, sliced
1 celery stalk, diced
Kosher salt
5 to 6 cups chicken stock
1 (2-inch) chunk Parmesan rind
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups spinach leaves or coarsely chopped kale leaves
Grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese for sprinkling

1. Combine the meatball ingredients in a bowl and mix to blend. Form into 1-inch meatballs, flatten slightly, and place on a plate. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a deep skillet or soup pot. Add the meatballs in one layer without overcrowding, in batches if necessary. Brown on both sides, turning when they release easily from the pan, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with a paper towel. (They will finish cooking in the soup.)
3. Add 1 tablespoon oil to the pan. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and a pinch of salt to the skillet and sauté until the vegetables are bright and tender, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring up any brown bits. Add the stock, cheese, bay leaf, thyme, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and the black pepper. Partially cover the pot and simmer over medium heat for about 15 minutes. Add the meatballs and continue to cook until the meatballs are fully cooked, 8 to 10 minutes more. Stir in the greens and cook until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper if desired. Ladle into bowls and serve with the cheese for sprinkling.

Uncategorized

Chicken and Escarole Salad with Fingerling Potatoes

Featuredby Lynda Balslev1 Comment on Chicken and Escarole Salad with Fingerling Potatoes

Flip the sheet pan dinner.

This simple chicken dish takes the ease of sheet pan cooking and upends it (literally) on top of a salad. Chicken breasts, fingerling potatoes, and lemon wedges are jumbled together on one pan for a simple tray bake. Once roasted, the ingredients are arranged over a bed of escarole leaves, while the collected cooking juices from the chicken and fresh lemon juice dress and gently wilt the salad leaves for a casual, homey meal.

As for the chicken, when it comes to flavor, say yes to bone-in, skin-on breast meat. Chicken breasts often get a bad rap for their dryness and lack of flavor. Leaving the bones and skin on the breast help to solve this problem. Not only do the bones add flavor to the meat while it cooks, they help to distribute the heat which prevents the meat from drying out. The skin also helps to keep the meat moist and tender by sealing in the juices; and, besides, who doesn’t like crispy skin?

Warm Chicken and Fingerling Salad with Escarole

Serves 4
Active time: 15 minutes
Total time: 55 minutes

Extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
Kosher salt
4 large split bone-in, skin on chicken breasts, each about xx ounces
1 pound / 500g fingerling potatoes, thickly sliced crosswise, about 3/4-inch / 2 cm. thick
Freshly ground black pepper
1 large untreated lemon, washed, cut into 6 wedges
1 large head escarole, leaves rinsed and dried

1. Heat the oven to 375°F / 190°C

2. Whisk 1/4 cup / 60 ml olive oil, the garlic, lemon zest, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a small bowl. Rub the oil mixture all over the chicken and between the skin and breast meat.

3. Place the potatoes in a bowl. Toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil and season with salt and black pepper.

4. Arrange the chicken, skin-side up, on a rimmed sheet pan lined with parchment. Scatter the potatoes and lemon wedges around the chicken.

5. Transfer to the oven and roast until the chicken and potatoes are golden brown and cooked through (the internal temperature of the chicken should register 165°F / 74°C ), about 40 minutes. Remove and let rest 5 to 10 minutes. Carve the chicken off the breast bones and thickly slice crosswise, about 1/2-inch thick.

6. While the chicken is resting, place the escarole in a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon oil, 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice, a pinch of salt and a few grinds of black pepper and toss to coat. Spread the leaves on a serving platter.

7. Arrange the chicken over the escarole. Scatter the potatoes around the chicken. Drizzle any pan juices over the chicken and potatoes. Squeeze the juice of 1 to 2 lemon wedges over the salad. Serve with the remaining wedges.

Fish and Shellfish, gluten-free, Main Course, recipe, tastefood

Spicy Shrimp Tacos

Featuredby Lynda Balslev4 Comments on Spicy Shrimp Tacos

Beat the weather with these spicy tacos.

The bleaker the weather, the brighter the food, I say. January can be a cold, wet, and dark second act following the holiday season. A perfect antidote is to create light and vibrant food to ward off the seasonal blues and balance out any holiday excess. These tacos channel the south and beyond the border with blackened shrimp piled on Baja-inspired tacos. They are vibrant and wholesome; not bogged down by any heavy sauces, cheeses, and meat. A citrusy salsa and fresh avocado are light and healthy accompaniments refreshing in their simplicity. The tacos are easy to prepare, only requiring just a fair amount of chopping, which is a simple activity that distracts from any inclement weather outside. And, perhaps best of all, they are fun to eat, inviting interaction and hands-on noshing.

The blackened spice blend is meant to have heat, but feel free to adjust the cayenne to your taste. In fact, make a double batch to keep on hand to season fish and chicken for later meals. Store any remaining spice blend in a jar in your pantry.

Spicy Shrimp Tacos
Serves: 4
Active time: 25 minutes
Total time: 25 minutes

Crema:
2/3 cup whole milk Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon Sriracha, or to taste
Pinch of kosher salt

Salsa:
1 cup grape tomatoes, chopped
1 cup defrosted frozen yellow corn
1 small poblano pepper, seeded, finely diced
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 small garlic clove, minced
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Spices:
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

24 large (18/20) shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails intact optional
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 large ripe but firm avocado, halved, sliced crosswise
Flour or corn tortillas, warmed
Cilantro leaves for garnish
Lime wedges

  1. Whisk the crema ingredients in a bowl. Refrigerate until use.
  2. In a separate bowl combine the salsa ingredients, and then taste for seasoning.
  3. Combine the spices in a small bowl. Toss the shrimp with 1 tablespoon oil in a large bowl. Add the spices and stir to thoroughly coat the shrimp.
  4. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a cast iron pan over medium heat. Carefully arrange the shrimp in one layer in the pan, without over-crowding (in batches if necessary). Cook until charred and cooked through the center, about 4 minutes, turning once.
  5. To serve, arrange a few slices of avocado on a warmed tortilla. Spoon some of the salsa over, then top with shrimp. Drizzle with some of the crema. Garnish with cilantro and serve with the lime wedges for squeezing.
Chicken, Curries, gluten-free, Main Course, one-pot, Soups and Stews

Curried Chicken Stew

Featuredby Lynda Balslev2 Comments on Curried Chicken Stew

A curried holiday time-out

Do you need a holiday time-out? When we are in the eye of the storm, a.k.a. the lull between December and New Year celebrations, it helps to step off the conveyor belt of planning, cooking, baking, and entertaining. Take a break and fix up something easy, healthy, and decidedly (not) holiday inspired. Make a fragrant warming curry and call it a culinary break.

I use the term “curry” loosely since this recipe is hardly authentic. An authentic curry consists of a mountain of whole spices and aromatics, carefully and lovingly toasted, ground, sautéed, and coaxed to create a potent paste that forms the base of a stew which simmers for an ample amount of time to infuse its flavor. (I highly recommend doing this, by the way, but suggest you wait until after the holidays.)

This yellow curry rendition gets its name thanks to a generous short-cut dump of curry powder into the soup, which in the category of quick meals does the trick. It’s a healthy soup, brimming with vegetables and thickened with coconut milk, and it’s a one-pot wonder, prepared in about 30 minutes. During a month of roasts, bakes, sauces, and icings, this soup is a spicy and refreshing hiatus, guaranteed to warm and restore before you get back to the business of any holiday festivities.

Curried Chicken Stew

Active Time: about 35 minutes
Total Time: about 35 minutes
Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 to 1 1/4 pounds chicken breast or thighs, cut into bite-size pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 large carrot, sliced 1/4–inch thick
1 medium red bell pepper, seeded, chopped
1 poblano pepper, seeded and chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced or pushed through a press
1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 (28-ounce) can Italian plum tomatoes with juice
1 (15-ounce) can coconut milk (not light)
2 cups coarsely chopped curly green kale, Tuscan kale, or spinach leaves (tough stems removed)
1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves plus more for garnish
1 red or green jalapeño pepper, thinly sliced

1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a wide pot or deep skillet. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and add to the pot in one layer without overcrowding. Cook over medium heat until the chicken colors on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes, turning as needed. Remove the chicken from the pot and set aside on a plate. (The chicken will not be fully cooked at this point. It will continue to cook when added to the stew.)

2. Add 1 tablespoon oil and the onion to the same pot. Sauté over medium heat until the onion softens, about 2 minutes. Add the carrot and peppers and sauté until the carrot brightens in color and the peppers begin to soften, about 3 minutes more. Add the garlic and ginger and sauté until fragrant, 15 to 30 seconds. Add the curry powder, cumin, and coriander, stirring to coat the vegetables and lightly toast the spices for about 15 seconds. Pour in the tomatoes, coconut milk, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Partially cover the pot and simmer over medium-low until the vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally and breaking up the tomatoes with a wooden spoon.

3. Return the chicken to the pot and stir in the kale or spinach. Continue to simmer until the chicken is thoroughly cooked through and the leaves wilt, about 5 minutes more. Stir in the 1/4 cup cilantro and taste for seasoning.

4. Ladle the curry into bowls. Garnish with additional cilantro and the jalapeño slices.

Autumn, Fall, Baking, Christmas, Desserts, holiday, recipe

Cardamom Spiced Pear Tarte Tatin

Featuredby Lynda Balslev

A perfectly imperfect tart

When it comes to a dessert, a baked upside-down anything is a winner; even when it’s a mistake. A tarte tatin is a classic French upside-down fruit tart, traditionally made with apples. It’s named for the Tatin sisters who created the upside-down caramelized tart, purportedly by accident, in Lamotte-Beuvron, France in 1898. Legend has it that one of the sisters inadvertently omitted the pastry in an apple tart. The dessert was nimbly salvaged by placing the crust on top of the fruit, in a wonderful example of kitchen improvisation which gave rise to a timeless dessert. (Wouldn’t it be nice if all kitchen disasters yielded such successful and delicious results?)

While tarte tatins are often prepared with apples, they are also a lovely way to showcase other seasonal fruit, such as pears. Best of all they are beautifully imperfect. Once you get the hang of making the caramel and the final inversion of the tart onto a plate, a tarte tatin is unfussy and pleasing, and, in this case, irregular, uneven, and more charming for that. This recipe has a sour cream pastry which creates a crumbly, cookie-like crust. As the tart bakes in the oven, the caramel from the fruit filling will bubble up in spots through the crust. This is a good thing. The crust will continue to bake, and when the tart is finished and cooling, the wayward caramel will harden and coat the crust with a shiny shellac of caramel. Need I say more?

Pear and Cardamom Tarte Tatin

Serves 8
Active time: 40 minutes
Total time: 1 hour and 15 minutes, plus chilling time for the dough

Pastry:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup chilled unsalted butter, cut into cubes
1/3 cup full fat sour cream

Tart:
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened, cut into 4 pieces
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
6 large Bosc or D’Anjou pears, peeled, cored, and halved
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 egg, beaten to blend, for glaze

Prepare the dough:
1. Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in the bowl of food processor and pulse to blend. Add the butter and pulse until the butter is pea-sized. Add the sour cream and pulse until moist clumps form.
2. Gather the dough into a ball, and then flatten and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. (The dough may be made one day ahead and refrigerated until use, or frozen for up to one month. Allow to defrost in refrigerator overnight before using.)
3. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes before rolling out.

Prepare the tart:
1. Place the butter in the bottom of a large oven-proof skillet with sloping sides. Sprinkle the 1 cup sugar evenly over the butter and pan. Cook over medium heat until the butter melts, the sugar is partially dissolved, and the mixture is bubbling, about 2 minutes.
2. Arrange the pears closely together, cut-sides up, in a circular pattern in the skillet. Cut the remaining pears into quarters to fill in the spaces. Mix the 1 tablespoon sugar, the cardamom, and nutmeg in a small bowl and sprinkle evenly over the fruit. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook until a thick amber colored syrup forms, turning the skillet to ensure even cooking, about 25 minutes.
3. While the fruit is cooking, preheat the oven to 425°F. Roll out the pastry on parchment paper to a round shape slightly larger than the skillet. Slide the paper onto a baking sheet and place in the refrigerator until the syrup is ready.
4. When the syrup has colored, remove the skillet from the heat and lay the pastry over the fruit (work quickly because it will begin to melt from the heat of the pan). Cut 3 to 4 slits in the pastry and brush the pastry with some of the egg glaze.
6. Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake until the tart is deep golden brown and firm when tapped, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the tart from the oven and cool on a rack 1 minute.
7. Cut around edge of skillet with a metal spatula to loosen the pastry. Place a large plate over the skillet and, using oven mitts, invert the tart onto the plate. If any of the pears or caramel are stuck in the pan, remove with the spatula and spread on top of tart. Cool the tart slightly before serving and serve warm or at room temperature with whipped cream.

entertaining, Main Course, one-pot, Switzerland, Uncategorized, Vegetarian

Cheese Fondue

Featuredby Lynda Balslev2 Comments on Cheese Fondue

Cheese fondue – a taste of the Alps

When the rural inhabitants of Swiss and French mountainous villages devised a warming winter dish incorporating their local cheese and white wine, little did they know it would become an international dinner party hit. It’s no wonder why this dish has crossed borders. During the cold and dark months, it’s universally appealing to hunker down and cozy up by the fire, and when you can bring the fire to your dinner table for a meal that encourages and embraces interaction, warmth, and – best of all – a cauldron of melted cheese, it’s hard to resist.

I lived in Switzerland for 10 years, where I had my fair share of fondues. Depending on the region, fondues may vary in terms of the cheese used, favoring the local cow’s milk cheese produced, or additional ingredients (such as porcini mushrooms or even tomato purée*). While the ingredients may veer slightly, the tradition remains firmly in place, and fondue is unquestionably a national dish. I had plenty of time to practice the technique of making fondue, and this recipe is my takeaway which has become our family tradition. It takes inspiration from the traditional Swiss method with just a few tweaks (apologies, my Swiss friends). For instance, fruity Calvados (apple brandy) is substituted for the traditional kirsch. And, in addition to serving the fondue only with bread, as the Swiss insist, I pass bowls of parboiled baby potatoes, broccoli, and cauliflower florets for dipping (a great way to get your kids to eat their vegetables) and serve other alpine accompaniments, such as dried meats and cornichons on the side (as I said, mes excuses, my Swiss friends). What should not be tweaked – and where I will put my American foot down – is the provenance of the cheese: Purchase the best quality, cave-aged Swiss or French alpine cheese you can find, such as Gruyère, Emmental, Vacherin Fribourgeois, Comté, or Beaufort, and feel free to blend them to your taste. I like to use a blend of 2/3 Gruyère and 1/3 Emmental or Comté. 

Depending on how long the cheese is aged, flavor can range from a young, mild, and creamy cheese to an aged piquant cheese with earthy, nutty, and/or salty notes. Aim for an aged alpine cheese, especially when you are using Gruyère, which will add nuance and an earthy-umami depth of flavor to your pot of cheese.

*Yes, that is indeed a tomato fondue, which is a popular iteration in the Valais region or canton. It’s delicious, and high on my must-make list. I promise I’ll publish the recipe when I’ve made it.

Alpine Cheese Fondue

Serves 6
Active time: 25 minutes
Total time: 25 minutes

Note: Have all your ingredients ready before you begin. Once you begin, the fondue will come together quickly, and during this time it must be constantly stirred. The fondue must not come to a boil during this time.

1/4 cup Calvados brandy
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for serving
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
3 cups dry, un-oaked white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 1/2 pounds alpine cheese, such as Gruyère and Emmental, coarsely grated
1 loaf country style or levain bread, cut in 3/4-inch cubes

1. Whisk the Calvados, cornstarch, salt, black pepper, and nutmeg in a small bowl, until smooth. Set aside.
2. Combine the wine and garlic in a large heavy saucepan, Dutch oven, or fondue pot. Heat over medium heat until tiny bubbles form, giving the wine a fizzy appearance, without coming to a boil. 
3. Add the cheese, one handful at a time, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until each handful is melted before adding the next. When all the cheese is added, continue stirring for about one minute to slightly thicken – do not let the fondue boil during this entire process.
4. Stir in the cornstarch mixture and continue to stir until the cheese thickens to a fondue consistency. (Note: Some cornstarch brands thicken more easily than others. If your fondue remains thin, whisk 1 more tablespoon cornstarch with 2 tablespoons white wine and stir into the cheese.) 
5. When the fondue is ready, remove from the heat. Pour the cheese into a warm fondue pot if necessary and place over a fondue burner. Serve immediately with extra ground pepper, the bread, and parboiled vegetables such as small potatoes, cauliflower, and broccoli florets.

Appetizers, Cooking for Your Health, gluten-free, side dish, Vegetables and Salads, Vegetarian

Roasted Beet and Ricotta Salad

Featuredby Lynda Balslev2 Comments on Roasted Beet and Ricotta Salad

Transforming ricotta: Just whip it.

Roasted Beet and Whipped Ricotta Salad

I am little late to the ricotta party. For a long while, this Italian whey cheese was relegated solely to lasagnas and other filled pasta dishes. Aside from that, ricotta did not play a role in much of my cooking. This is likely due to unfortunate first impressions, the ho-hum results of part-skim varieties, that tend to be watery, grainy, and lacking in character. More recently, however, I began to dabble with using fresh ricotta, and it was revelatory. The difference between a skimmed and watered down version versus a high quality whole-milk ricotta or a hand-dipped artisan ricotta (besides a few extra dollars) is a worlds-apart creamy, sweet and milky cheese, urging consumption. To which I obliged, and started experimenting with different recipes.

And then I whipped it.

Apparently, whipped ricotta has been a thing, but, as mentioned, I am late to the party. Thank goodness I arrived. Whipping ricotta transforms this creamy, slightly grainy, cheese into an ethereal spreadable wonder, which is sweet and mild and very receptive to additional ingredients, such as olive oil, honey, fresh herbs, salt, and pepper. It’s a protein-rich alternative to whipped cream, crème fraiche, yogurt, sour cream, and even a dollop of ice cream on top of dessert.

To whip ricotta, use a dense, creamy whole-milk ricotta that smells dairy fresh and tastes milky and mildly sweet. Avoid watery, grainy, part-skim ricotta and any ricotta that has a funky aroma.

Sweet Whipped Ricotta
Makes 1 cup

Combine 1 cup whole-milk ricotta, 1 tablespoon honey, 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice and an optional pinch of lemon zest in a food processor and process until light and smooth. Taste for seasoning and add more honey if desired. Serve as a substitute for whipped cream, crème fraiche, or ice cream with fresh fruit and baked desserts. 

Savory Whipped Ricotta
Makes 1 cup

Combine 1 cup whole-milk ricotta, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a grind or two of black pepper in a food processor. Process until light and smooth and taste for seasoning. If you like, add a generous pinch of finely grated fresh lemon zest. Spread the ricotta in a bowl and use as a dip for crudités and bread. Stir it into cooked pasta dishes as a creamy sauce. Smear it on bruschetta or garlic toasts and top with sliced figs or stone fruit, a drizzle of honey and lemon zest, or your other favorite toppings. Spoon a dollop on cooked pizzas, roasted vegetables, and salads, such as the following beet salad.

Roasted Beet and Spring Green Salad with Whipped Ricotta

The beets will release their juices while roasting, which will mix with the olive oil to create the base for the vinaigrette.

Serves 4
Active Time: 20 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour and 20 minutes, plus cooling time

3 bunches small or baby beets, 10 to 12, ends and stems trimmed, scrubbed clean
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
4 ounces mixed spring greens, such as arugula, mache, baby spinach, miners lettuce, frisée
1 cup Savory Whipped Ricotta
Lemon zest, for garnish

1. Heat the oven to 400°F.
2. Place the beets in a large Dutch oven. Pour in the oil, stir to coat, and lightly season with salt. Cover the pot, transfer to the oven, and roast the beets until tender when pierced with a knife, about 1 hour. Remove and cool, uncovered, in the pot.
3. When cool enough to handle, peel the beets and cut into large bite-size chunks. Do not discard the oil from the pot. Place the beets in a bowl with 1 tablespoon of the cooking oil, and lightly season with salt and pepper. Cool to room temperature or refrigerate until chilled (the beets may be prepared up to one day in advance).
4. Pour the remaining cooking oil into a bowl (through a strainer if desired). Whisk in the vinegar, lemon juice, and a pinch of salt to taste.
5. To assemble the salad, arrange a layer of mixed spring greens on serving plates. Lightly drizzle with some of the vinaigrette. Mound the beets on the greens and top with a dollop of the whipped ricotta. Garnish with lemon zest and black pepper. Serve with the remaining vinaigrette for drizzling.