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Food, Wine, Recipes, Travel
Blue Potatoes, Mustard Leaves, Fennel Fronds, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Yesterday was a farmers’ market day and I purchased with my eyes. Nobby purple potatoes, sumptuous lettuce heads, spiky mustard greens and a bouquet of their brilliant yellow flowers. Baby fennel bulbs with frizzy headdresses and a kaleidescope of golf ball-sized heirloom tomatoes.
When the produce is this fresh and diverse, I let the ingredients do the talking. I made this potato salad to accompany a grilled garlic and spice rubbed tri-tip. Purple potatoes are beautiful and other worldly, resembling prehistoric stones. Their flavor is remarkably mild and creamy despite their blue tinged flesh. For this salad they were boiled until tender and tossed with handfuls of red and green mustard leaves and the frizzy tops of baby fennel. The heat of the potatoes wilted the mustard just enough to tame its pepperiness and released the anise aroma of the fennel fronds. Yellow mustard leaves added a brilliant accent – after all blue and yellow are complimentary colors.
Blue Potato Salad with Fresh Mustard and Baby Fennel
The moral of this post is to embrace what you have. Mix and match aromatic herbs such as dill, parsley, mint and chervil to your taste. Any sturdy green is fair game: the warm potatoes will get to work and wilt it into suppliance.
Serves 4
2 pounds purple potatoes
Salt
2 cups spiky mustard leaves, torn in bite-size pieces
1 cup chopped fennel fronds with leaves
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Put the potatoes in a large pot and cover with 2 inches of cold water. Add 2 teaspoons salt and bring to a boil. Simmer until tender but not mushy. Drain and cool slightly. Cut any large potatoes in large bite-sized chunks. Place in a large bowl. Add all of the remaining ingredients except the mustard flowers. Toss and taste for seasoning and add more salt to taste. Before serving scatter the mustard flowers over the potatoes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
~ Flank Steak, Spicy Green Chiles, Beer, Sriracha and a Grill ~
I’m packing my bags and on my way to a Cook n Scribble writers’ retreat and Longhouse Food Revival at Tutka Bay Lodge and a short whirlwind trip sponsored by the Alaska Tourism Board. This is so exciting, I’d be pinching myself right now if I weren’t so busy looking for my bear bells. More to follow I promise! For now, keep cool and sated with these fiesty flank steak skewers from the TasteFood archives. They are sure to liven up any summer party.
Grilled Beer and Sriracha Flank Steak Skewers with Green Chile Sauce
When the weather is so hot it feels like it’s shouting at you, then why not shout back with this spicy, peppery recipe for grilled flank steak? There is nothing soft-spoken about steak marinated in a fiery beer bath or its 3-chile dipping sauce. Sharp, fragrant and heady with stout, lime and sriracha, the marinade tenderizes the beef as it soaks overnight and soaks up the flavors and just enough spice without overwhelming. The sauce is inspired by Zhoug, a Yemeni condiment that’s a cross between chimichurri and harissa, which is arguably a match made in heaven. Serve on skewers for fun party food and be sure to pass the beer and tequila for a bold and jazzy meal to beat the heat.
Serves 4 to 6 as a main course
Marinade:
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup dark beer or stout
1/4 cup lime juice
2 tablespoons sriracha or hot sauce
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons cumin
2 teaspoons chipotle chili powder
2 teaspoons paprika
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds flank steak, cut against the grain in 1 inch strips
Green Chile Sauce:
1 poblano pepper, stemmed, coarsely chopped
1 jalapeno pepper, stemmed, coarsely chopped
1 green serrano pepper, stemmed, coarsely chopped
2 garlic cloves
1 cup cilantro sprigs
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt
Extra-virgin olive oil
Whisk all the marinade ingredients together in a small bowl. Place flank steak strips in a resealable plastic bag or glass container with a lid. Pour marinade over and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
Make the sauce: Place the peppers and garlic in a food processor. Pulse until finely chopped. Add the cilantro, cumin and salt and briefly pulse to combine. Transfer to a glass jar. Pour olive oil over to cover. Store in refrigerator for up to 5 days. The flavors and heat will diminish with time.
(Note: When you make the sauce, be sure to take a tiny taste of your peppers. If a pepper is too fiery for your taste, then carefully remove some or all of its membranes and seeds without coming in contact with your skin).
Remove steak from marinade 30 minutes before grilling. Discard the marinade. Prepare grill for high heat. Thread strips on pre-soaked bamboo skewers. Grill over direct heat, turning once, 5 to 6 minutes each side for medium-rare. Serve with the spicy green chile sauce.
~ Sauasage, Cannellini, Kale, Tomato, Parmigiano, Gemelli Pasta ~
It’s always a shock to our family food supply when school is out and the kids are suddenly home for 3 meals a day. Add to that one freshly minted 18 year-old performing landscape construction as a summer day job who actually requires 6 meals a day.
Faced with the prospect of whipping up a satisfying and filling dinner last week when our fridge was beyond bare to begin with (all the good stuff had gone to our annual beach BBQ feast) I had to think creatively and fast. There was one overlooked packet of sausages that had escaped the BBQ unscathed, so I decided to prepare a sturdy meaty pasta dish, embellished with the pantry’s cannellini beans and a few lone plum tomatoes rolling around on the kitchen counter. Luckily there was a bunch of curly kale in the fridge, and while tempted to make a salad just for me, I checked myself and dumped the whole lot into the pasta bowl. If this wouldn’t fill ’em up nothing would.
Sausage, Kale and White Bean Pasta
Serves 4
1 small bunch curly kale, tough ribs removed, torn in bite size pieces
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Salt
1 pound pasta, such as gemelli, fusilli, farfalle
8 ounces Italian sausages, sliced 1/2-inch thick
1 (15-ounce) can cannellini beans, drained
3 plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 teaspoon crushed red chili flakes
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup finely grated Parmigiano cheese, divided
Handful of Italian parsley, chopped
Place the kale, 1 tablespoon olive oil, lemon juice and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Toss the kale with your hands while rubbing the oil into the leaves. This will help to soften them. Set aside.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add pasta and cook until al dente, about 9 minutes. Drain.
While the pasta is cooking heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and brown on both sides, turning once, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and add the beans, tomatoes, garlic, chili flakes, and black pepper. Cook, stirring once or twice until heated through, about 2 minutes. Taste for salt and adjust seasoning as needed. Transfer to a large serving bowl. Add the pasta, kale, half of the cheese and the parsley. Toss to combine. Add more cheese to taste and serve any extra with the pasta.
If you like this, you might enjoy these easy pasta recipes from TasteFood:
Gemelli with Roasted Tomatoes and Arugula
Spaghetti with Broccolini, Breadcrumbs and Chili Flakes
Orecchiette with Bacon and Brussel Sprouts
We are wilting under the shroud of a spectacular heat wave here in the Bay area. Stifled by the temperature, nothing is moving – even the leaves are too warm to rustle. It’s so hot right now, it’s impossible to cook. In fact it’s so hot right now, it’s impossible to even write about cooking. So, let me treat you to a photo round up of a sensational summer grill menu in preparation for the fourth of July. Keep cool.
Blackberry Spritzer and Mojitos
Summer Solstice BBQ Baby Back Ribs
Grilled Chicken Skewers with Sriracha Marinade
Taking its cue from Insalata Caprese, the magical trio of tomato, mozzarella and basil gets dressed up in these elegant yet simple verrines. A diced medley of colorful heirloom tomatoes is topped with creamy buffalo mozzarella and fresh basil, then laced with rich balsamic syrup. A plank of olive oil crostini completes this fresh and light dish. Make this summery appetizer when the garden is abundant with ripe tomatoes and it’s too hot to cook in the kitchen.
Heirloom Tomato and Mozzarella Tartare with Balsamic Syrup
Makes 8 servings.
Syrup:
1/2 cup balsamic syrup
1 garlic clove, lightly smashed
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper
Crostini:
8 slices of baguette, cut 4-inches in length by 1/4-inch thick
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 large garlic clove, lightly smashed
2 pounds assorted heirloom tomatoes, seeded, cut in 1/4-inch dice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
8 ounces buffalo mozzarella
8 large basil leaves
For the syrup:
Place the vinegar, garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook until syrupy in consistency and reduced by 1/3. Discard garlic clove. Transfer syrup to a bowl and cool to room temperature.
For the crostini:
Preheat oven broiler or grill. Brush baguette slices with olive oil. Rub with garlic clove and lightly sprinkle with salt. Arrange in one layer on a baking tray and broil until lightly golden on both sides, turning once. (Or grill until lightly charred on both sides). Set aside.
Place the tomatoes in a bowl. Add oil, salt, sugar and black pepper. Gently stir to combine. Taste for seasoning. Divide the tomatoes evenly between 8 glasses. Top with a spoonful of mozzarella. Drizzle with 1 to 2 teaspoons balsamic syrup.
Stack the basil leaves. Roll up the stack lengthwise and thinly slice the roll to chiffonade the basil. Sprinkle the basil over the tomatoes. Serve immediately with crostini.
~ Chocolate Hazelnut Pots de Creme with Praline ~
These little vessels of silky rich dark chocolate custard get dressed up with nutty, fragrant hazelnuts. Frangelico liqueur is the secret ingredient, an Italian noisette (hazelnut) flavored liqueur that tastes great straight up or laced in coffee or over ice cream. It’s also a great addition to an affogato. This recipe will make 6 generous servings for diehard chocoholics. If the portions are too intense, divide among espresso cups for the perfect sweet after dinner touch of chocolate. For best results, use high quality dark (70%) chocolate. And if you can’t find frangelico but still feel nutty, then substitute amaretto.
Chocolate Hazelnut Pots de Creme with Praline
Begin this recipe 1 to 2 days in advance of serving. Makes 6 (3/4-cup) ramekins or 12 espresso cups.
Pots de Creme:
1 3/4 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup whole milk
6 ounces high quality dark chocolate (70 to 72%), finely chopped
6 egg yolks
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons Frangelico or hazelnut liqueur
Whipped Cream:
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon Frangelico or hazelnut liqueur
Praline:
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted lightly and skinned, coarsely chopped (or almonds, lightly toasted, coarsely chopped)
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
Make the pots de creme:
Preheat oven to 325 F. (170 C.) Heat the cream and milk in a saucepan over medium heat until it reaches a simmer. Remove from heat and whisk in the chocolate until melted and smooth.
Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a large bowl until blended. Add the cream in a steady stream, whisking to combine. Whisk in Frangelico. Strain through a fine meshed sieve into another bowl and cool for 5 minutes.
Pour into ramekins or espresso cups. Place the ramekins in a baking pan. Fill the pan with boiling water half way up the ramekins. Cover ramekins with foil and transfer to oven. Bake until set, but still a little wobbly when jiggled, about 55 minutes for ramekins and 45 minutes for espresso cups. Remove from water bath and remove foil. Cool completely on a wire rack. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
Make the whipped cream:
Beat the cream in the bowl of an electric mixer until traces of the whisk appear. Add sugar and Frangelico. Continue to beat until peaks form.
Make the praline:
Heat the sugar in a heavy small saucepen over medium heat until sugar melts, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until sugar turns amber in color. Add the nuts and sea salt and stir quickly to coat. Pour onto a baking sheet lined with parchment and spread into a thin layer.. Do not touch with your fingers. Cool completely. Break into small pieces.
To serve, spoon a dollop of cream over the center of each ramekin. Top with chards or finely chopped praline.
~Smoky Roasted Chicken Breasts with Chickpeas, Grape Tomatoes, Cilantro~
Sometimes you know a recipe is a keeper. The minute I saw this chicken recipe in Bon Appétit I knew it would be great. Normally I change recipes up quite a bit, but in this case I only made a few minor tweaks – and ended up with a simple and flavorful dinner that I will be making again (and again). The ingredients are straightforward and likely already in your kitchen, and the whole dish may be prepared in less than 45 minutes – perfect for the weeknight. So file this one – you won’t regret it!
Smoky Roasted Chicken Breasts with Chickpeas, Tomatoes and Cilantro
Slightly adapted from Bon Appétit. Serves 4 to 5.
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons salt, divided
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 cup Greek whole milk yogurt
4 large chicken breasts with skin, de-boned, 6 to 8 ounces each
2 cups grape tomatoes
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas (garbanzos), drained and rinsed
1 cup fresh cilantro sprigs, divided (or Italian parsley)
Heat oven to 450°F.
Whisk oil, garlic, paprikas, cumin, 1 teaspoon salt, pepper and crushed red pepper in a small bowl. Transfer 1 tablespoon of the oil to another bowl and whisk in the yogurt. Set aside until serving.
Place chicken, skin-side up, on a rimmed baking sheet. Rub all over and between skin and meat with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Place tomatoes, chickpeas and half of the cilantro in a bowl. Add remaining oil and stir to coat. Pour onto the baking sheet around the chicken. Turn to coat the chicken with any extra oil. Be sure to keep the skin side up for roasting. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt.
Roast chicken in oven until cooked through, 20 to 30 minutes. Transfer chicken to serving plates or a platter and spoon the beans and tomatoes over. Garnish with cilantro and serve with yogurt sauce.
When life hands you plums, make a galette
I am the queen of imperfect desserts. When I feel nonchalant I call them “rustic” but frankly they can look like a mess. The good news is that there is plenty of room for imperfect, rustic and messy desserts in our repertoire. In fact most cuisines tout their own version of bubbly, squidgy desserts cobbled together with crumpled and crinkled borders oozing juices like a ruptured pipe. They’re supposed to do that, and more importantly, they taste really good. And when one lacks a certain gene for patience (moi) these desserts are just right. They relieve all pressure to be exacting, methodical and, well, perfect. Once that pressure’s removed there is plenty of space to simply relax, bake and eat. Just be sure to pass the napkins.
Plum Galette
If you’re feeling Italian, you can call this a crostata. Serves 6.
Serves 6
Pastry:
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, chilled, cut in 1/2-inch cubes
2 to 3 tablespoons ice cold water
Filling:
6 large plums, halved, pitted and sliced or 12 small plums, halved, pitted
6 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided
1 tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon cardamom
Pinch of salt
Prepare the pastry:
Combine the flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and work into flour with your fingertips until the dough resembles coarse meal. Add enough water to bind the dough. Form the dough into a ball and flatten into a disk, then wrap with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least one hour.
Prepare the galette:
1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Toss the plums in a large bowl with 4 tablespoons sugar, the flour, lemon zest, cinnamon, cardamom, and salt.
2. Roll out the dough on parchment paper into a 12-inch circle. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon sugar over the dough, leaving a 2-inch border. Mound the plums over the sugar. Sprinkle the plums with 1 tablespoon sugar. Fold the border of the dough up and around the plums. The center of the galette will be exposed.
3. Slide the parchment onto a baking sheet and transfer to the middle rack of the oven. Bake until the fruit is bubbly and the crust is golden brown, about 45 minutes. Remove and cool slightly before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.
~ Beef Ribeye, Farro, Golden Beets, Spring Onion, Garbanzos, Tarragon ~
There are a few reasons why this recipe is just right for tonight. The first reason is that it’s early summer in San Francisco and it’s freezing. Not literally, but enough to feel obliged to apologize profusely to visitors from out of town. Enough to don fleece outerwear to venture out to the grill, where hands are briskly warmed between flipping the burgers. Or enough to appear like it’s raining when technically it is not, but the mist from the fog is so heavy it soaks the garden furniture and leave puddles on the steps.
Another reason why this meal is just right is this is the first day following a whirlwind celebratory week of graduations, house guests and parties. When lists were made to remember lists. When we had great fun, but didn’t have a moment to reflect on that fun. When we indulged and consumed and quite likely forgot to eat our vegetables. Today we now have the time and space to remember and to reflect – and to also eat a balanced meal.
This recipe corrals the seasons’ best farmers market produce, hearty farro, and a few lone pieces of steak left over in the fridge, in one big warming yet fresh meal brimming with health and good flavor. You can grill the steak or pan fry it, depending on the weather.
Warm Steak and Farro Salad with Roasted Beets, Garbanzos and Tarragon
Shelled English peas or edamame may be substituted for the garbanzos.
Serves 4.
3 medium golden beets, peeled, cut in 1/2 inch batons or wedges
1 large sweet yellow onion, halved lengthwise, each half thickly sliced in wedges
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 1/4 cups chicken stock
1 1/2 cups farro
1 small garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon cumin
1/4 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste
2 or 3 rib eye or New York steaks, about 1-inch thick
1/2 cup shelled fresh garbanzos (chick peas)
1/4 cup fresh tarragon leaves
Sriracha (optional)
Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Toss the beets and onion with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Bake in oven until beets are tender and onions are beginning to brown, about 45 minutes.
While the vegetables are roasting, prepare the farro: Combine the stock, farro and 1 teaspoon salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cover and cook until the farro is tender but still chewy, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat and fluff with a fork. Stir in 1 tablespoon olive oil, garlic, paprika, cumin and cayenne. Partially cover to keep warm.
Prepare the steaks: Season the steaks all over with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a heavy skillet or cast iron skillet over medium high heat. Add steaks, without overcrowding, and cook until brown on both sides, turning once, 6 to 8 minutes for medium rare. (or grill over direct high heat, turning once or twice, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 5 minutes. Cut steaks crosswise in 1/2 inch thick slices.
While the steaks are resting, bring a small saucepan of water to a boil. Add the garbanzos and blanch until bright green but still crisp, about 1 minute.
To serve, spoon the farro into the center of a serving platter or divide among serving plates. Arrange steak in the center of the farro and drizzle with any accumulated juices. Place the vegetables around the steak and drizzle with any accumulated baking juices. Scatter the garbanzos over. Garnish with fresh tarragon. Drizzle with more olive oil. Serve warm with Sriracha sauce on the side.