Aebleskivers

Aebleskivers

aebleskivers tf011

Danish Æbleskivers

Referred to as pancakes, dumplings or even doughnut holes in English, æbleskivers are served as a treat throughout the month of December, almost always with a glass of gløgg.

Makes 20.

1  1/2 cups whole milk
.6 ounce fresh yeast (1 cake) or 1 envelope dry yeast
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamon
1/2 vanilla bean
2 eggs, separated

Unsalted butter
Raspberry or strawberry preserves
Powder sugar

Heat milk in a small saucepan until lukewarm.  Remove from heat and pour into a medium bowl.  Add yeast and let it dissolve.
Combine flour, sugar, salt and cardamon in a medium bowl.  Split vanilla bean and scrape seeds into the dry ingredients. Whisk the egg yolks into the milk.  Add the wet ingredients to the flour and mix well. Beat egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer until stiff.  Fold into batter.  Let rest one hour at room temperature.
Melt 1/2 teaspoon butter in each indentation of an aebleskiver pan over medium heat.  Pour batter into each indentation, about 2/3 full.  Cook until golden brown underneath, 3-4 minutes.  Using a knife or skewer, turn aebleskiver over and continue to cook until golden and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes.
Remove æbleskivers from pan, and repeat with remaining batter.  Serve æbleskivers with powdered sugar and preserves  – and a glass of steaming gløgg.

Note:
An aebleskiver pan is a stovetop pan with 6 or 8 holes/indentations. While non-stick is available, choose a cast iron pan for best results.

Root Vegetable Gratin

Root Vegetable Gratin

If you are searching for holiday side dishes, this root veggie gratin is a fresh alternative to a traditional potato gratin. Layers of rutabaga and sweet potato alternate with red potatoes in this colorfully striated dish flecked with sage.  The root vegetables lend an extra dimension to this rustic winter gratin with their sweet earthy flavor, while adding a more nutritious alternative to the simple potato.

Root Vegetable Gratin
Serves 6-8

16 ounces sour cream
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh sage leaves
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
4 medium red potatoes
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled
1 large rutabaga, peeled
6 ounces Gruyère cheese, finely grated

Preheat oven to 375 F. (190 C.) Butter a gratin dish.
Combine sour cream, garlic, sage, salt, pepper and nutmeg in a bowl and mix well. Thinly slice potatoes and rutabaga, preferably with a mandoline. Arrange 2 layers of red potatoes, overlapping, in bottom of gratin dish. Spread a thin layer of the sour cream over the potatoes. Sprinkle with a little Gruyere cheese. Cover with a double layer of sweet potatoes. Spread with a thin layer of sour cream and a sprinkling of Gruyere. Repeat with a layer of rutabaga. Repeat process until all of the vegetables have been incorporated. (There should be about 6 layers in all.) Thoroughly top gratin with remaining sour cream. Sprinkle a liberal amount of Gruyère over sour cream. Bake in oven until vegetables are tender and top of gratin is brown and bubbling, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. (Loosely cover gratin with buttered foil if browning too fast.) Serve garnished with fresh sage leaves.

Holiday Entertaining: Salmon Gravlax

Holiday Entertaining: Salmon Gravlax

You say Christmas, and I say Gravlax. The holiday season is not complete without executing a recipe for home-cured salmon gravlax. Don’t be daunted. This is an entertainer’s dream. The salmon is easily prepared in advance and stowed in the refrigerator to cure for 2 days. All you need to do is unwrap and remove the spice cure, slice and serve. The results are the essence of Nordic cuisine: minimal and elegant. Fennel, dill and pepper fleck the meltingly soft salmon which tastes of the sea. How can you argue with that?

Gravlax (gravlaks in Danish and Norwegian or gravad lax in Swedish) literally means salmon in a grave or hole.  During the middle ages fisherman would salt salmon and let it ferment by burying it in a hole above high-tide line. Nowadays it’s not necessary to bury salmon in sand, but, rather in salt and sugar and banish it to the refrigerator.  The salmon will cure over several days, during which the salt and sugar will turn into liquid, creating a brine.

Salmon Gravlax

Serves a party.

Salt and sugar are necessary ingredients for curing, while fresh or dried herbs, peppercorns, citrus or spirits are frequently added to the brine for additional flavor. This recipe adds dill, fennel, peppercorns and akavit for flavor and spice. Choose a fish which is very fresh with a firm consistency. I use an Atlantic fish, such as Loch Duart Salmon.

One side of salmon, about 3 pounds (1.5 kg) with skin, pin bones removed
1 tablespoon white peppercorns
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
10 ounces (350 g) sea salt
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1 cup fresh dill sprigs, chopped
1 cup fennel fronds, finely chopped
1/4 cup Akavit or vodka

Lightly toast the peppercorns and fennel seeds in a dry skillet over medium-high heat until aromatic, about 1 minute. Transfer to a mortar and finely ground to a powder. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the salt and sugars. Rub the fish all over with the spices mix.

Line a long baking pan or dish with plastic wrap.  Place half of the dill sprigs and half of the fennel fronds over the plastic wrap.  Arrange the salmon, skin-side down on the herbs.  Sprinkle the Akavit over the salmon. Top with the remaining dill and fennel. Cover with additional plastic wrap, sealing the fish.  Place a heavy pan or tray on the fish. Weigh down the pan with cans or bottles.  Refrigerate for 2 to 3 days.

To serve, remove the fish from refrigerator. Remove the plastic wrap. Pour off the collected juices and wipe off excess brine and dill.  Slice diagonally from one corner of the salmon towards the center of the fillet.

Fold a slice of gravlax on toasted brioche bread or white bread.  Squeeze a few drops of fresh lemon juice and smear a spoonful of Honey Dill Mustard on the fish.  Garnish with a dill sprig.

Honey Dill Mustard

1/4 cup honey mustard
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
1/2 cup grapeseed oil
1/4 cup chopped dill sprigs
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt

Whisk the mustard and vinegar together in a small bowl.  Slowly whisk in the oil to emulsify.  Stir in the dill, pepper and salt.

Russian Teacake Cookies

Russian Teacake Cookies


Russian Teacake Cookies

Is it December yet?

Thanksgiving is over, and for the last 5 days of November, all I have thought about is Christmas. December is here at last, and it’s time to unabashedly release all that penned up yuletide energy. Parties are being planned, recipes are flying about, pumpkins are switching out with holly, and any lingering scents of spice are preparing to mingle with our next aromatic houseguest, the Christmas tree.

I love this window of time when we anticipate and prepare, while we have a moment to appreciate the singular pleasures of the season – a walk in the woods, a cup of gløgg, crafting a wreath. I remain mindful of this enjoyment, because I know that all too soon holiday pandemonium will break loose.  Steady preparations will accelerate into a flurry of activity, a whirlwind of guests and a smorgasbord of food.  Now, I bask in the expanse of time. And I bake cookies.

Russian Teacake Cookies (also known as Sandies and Mexican Wedding Cookies) are a favorite holiday cookie in our home. If we are baking them, it means that Christmas is just around the corner. They are uncomplicated and appealing to kids of all ages, including us. The batter is egg free, encouraging lots of tasting, and the final touch requires a good roll in powder sugar, resulting in a snowy round cookie that resembles a snowman’s mid-section. And, of course, they are finger-licking good. We bake a batch of these each week leading up to the holiday, in part because they are so easy to make, but mostly because they never last long in our home.

Russian Teacake Cookies a.k.a. Sandies
adapted from Betty Crocker’s Cooky Book

Makes about 36.

1 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup sifted confectioner’s sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup finely chopped toasted almonds
Additional confectioner’s sugar for rolling

Mix butter and sugar in bowl of electric mixer until lightened in color and fluffy, 3 minutes.  Mix in vanilla. Stir flour and salt together in a medium bowl.  Add flour to butter and mix to combine.  Stir in nuts.  Chill dough at least 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 400 F. (200 C.) Roll dough in 1 inch balls.  Place on parchment lined baking sheets.  Bake until firm, but not brown, 10-12 minutes.  Remove from oven and cool slightly.  Roll in additional confectioner’s sugar.  Place on tray and cool completely. Roll in sugar again.

Smashed Potatoes and Celery Root with Horseradish and Parmesan

Celery Root potatoes tf

Celery root teams up with potato and spicy horseradish for a satisfying smash. Popular in Europe and less used in the U.S., celery root, also known as celeriac, is the dark horse of tubers. Don’t let it’s gnarly, bulbous exterior put you off. Once you peel away the skin a milky white interior is revealed, fragrant with celery. Its smooth and mellow flavor adds a delightful dimension to mashed potatoes, gratins, soups and stews.

Smashed Potatoes with Celery Root and Horseradish and Parmesan

Nutrient-rich potato skins fleck this side dish, adding flavor and texture. Peel the potatoes if you prefer a smoother texture.  Serves 6-8.

1 1/2 pounds yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 1/2 pounds celery root, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
Bouquet garni: 1 bay leaf and 3 thyme sprigs, tied in cheese cloth with kitchen string
Salt
1/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into pieces
3/4 cup sour cream or creme fraiche
3 tablespoons finely grated fresh horseradish, divided
3 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, divided
1 teaspoon black pepper

Combine potatoes and celery root in large pot. Cover with cold water. Add bouquet garni and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cook, partially covered until potatoes and celery root are very tender, about 20 minutes. Drain thoroughly. Transfer to a large bowl. Add butter and smash with a potato masher. Stir in sour cream, 2 tablespoons horseradish, 1 tablespoon cheese and black pepper. Add more salt to taste. Transfer potatoes to a buttered casserole or baking dish. (Potatoes may be prepared up to one day in advance to this point. Let cool completely, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.)

Preheat oven to 350 F. (180 C.) Mix 1 tablespoon horseradish with 2 tablespoons cheese in a small bowl. Sprinkle over top of potatoes. Bake in oven until top is tinged golden brown and potatoes are heated through, about 25 minutes. Serve immediately.

Kitchen Magic: Cream of Parsnip Soup

Cream of Parsnip Soup

There were four lonely parsnips in my refrigerator yesterday.  Somehow, they missed the chicken dinner I made earlier in the week, when I scattered onions, rutabagas, and potatoes around the chicken while it roasted.  The parsnips were meant to be included, but were inadvertently left behind in the vegetable crisper, minding their own business nestled between the gypsy peppers and fennel.  It was all for the best.

Yesterday was an indisputable soup day: cold, blustery and rainy.  As I surveyed my refrigerator for inspiration, I eyed the forgotten parsnips and instantly knew what I would make – Cream of Parsnip Soup.  I found some celery hiding behind the fennel in the crisper, and reached for an onion in my onion basket. And, of course, I had a quart of chicken stock that I made from the aforementioned roasted chicken.  With a little cooking and blending, these solitary ingredients transformed themselves into a silky rich soup.  Kitchen magic at its best.

Cream of Parsnip Soup

Serves 4-6

The sweet and nutty flavor of parsnip is evened out by the celery and and chicken stock.  You can substitute 2 cups chopped celery root for the celery stalks for a softer flavor.

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
2 celery stalks, diced
3 large parsnips, peeled and diced (about 3 cups)
4 cups (1 liter) chicken stock
4 sage leaves
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup (125 ml.) heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in a large soup pot over medium heat.  Add onion and sauté until they begin to sweat.  Add celery. parsnips and garlic and sauté one minute.  Add 3 cups chicken stock, sage and bay leaf.  Simmer, covered, until vegetables are very soft, about 25 minutes.  Remove and discard bay leaf and sage leaves. Purée soup until smooth in a food processor or with an immersion blender. Return soup to pot and stir in cream. Thin soup to desired consistency with additional chicken stock. Heat gently over medium heat. Add salt and pepper to taste.