Homemade Merguez

For this month’s Charcutepalooza event, we were challenged  to make our own bulk sausage, either as breakfast sausage, merguez or chorizo. This one had my full attention. If it’s possible to express sentiment over a sausage, then the merguez would be considered my first true love in the charcuterie department.

I first ate merguez when I lived in Paris.  They were unlike any sausage I ever tasted. Finger-thin, lean in fat and fiery red hot, these North African sausages were the wizened angry little men of sausages – taut, feisty and not to be underestimated. They were easily found in the myriad couscous restaurants sprinkled throughout the city, from street vendors and specialty markets. Eaten alone, with couscous, or in a bun with frites and sauce – merguez were the essence of Morocco. Fragrant with cumin, coriander and sumac, dry and hot like the desert heat, and fiery red with harissa – one bite and you were transported.

Since then, and following moves further north in Europe and to the U.S., those merguez have become a food memory, frequently reminisced at the dinner table and used as a point of comparison (without success) when encountering other sausages calling themselves merguez. So far, nothing I have eaten replicates the North African merguez I tasted in France.

So, this month’s Charcutepalooza challenge was particularly exciting. Why not try to make my own merguez? While I had no illusion of immediately recreating my distant memory of perfection, I would use the bulk sausage challenge as an opportunity to tinker with flavor, spice and heat before any fussing with stuffing the casings. I would form simple patties which I would stuff in pita bread. While the patties may be the lazy oafish cousin to the taut, skinny merguez sausage, the hope was that the taste would be undeniably related.

Merguez Bulk Sausage

I followed the technique for making bulk sausage from Charcuterie and formed the meat into small patties, or keftas. As for the spices, I concocted a heady mix of harissa, coriander, cumin, fennel and sumac. If needed, I planned to add lamb fat rather than pork fat, since the merguez I ate in France were Halaal. This proved unnecessary, however, since lamb shoulder provided enough fat for my taste.

1 teaspoon fennel seed
1 teaspoon coriander seed
1 teaspoon cumin seed
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons harissa paste
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon sumac
1/2 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 pound ground lamb shoulder
Olive oil

Toast fennel, coriander and cumin seeds in a small pan over medium heat until fragrant, 1 minute. Transfer to a mortar with pestle or spice grinder, and grind until fine. Combine in a bowl with all of the remaining ingredients except the lamb. Stir to form a paste. Add lamb and thoroughly mix together with your hands. Form into 1 1/2 inch patties. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight.
Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a skillet over medium high heat. Add patties, without overcrowding, in batches. Cook, turning once, until brown on both sides. Transfer to a plate lined with a paper towel and keep warm. Repeat with remaining patties.
Serve with pita bread, harissa sauce, Greek style yogurt and fresh mint leaves.

What is Charcutepalooza?
An inspirational idea hatched by Cathy Barrow and Kim Foster and partnering with Food52 and Punk Domestics. It celebrates a Year in Meat, where participating foodies and bloggers will cure, smoke and salt their way through Michael Ruhlman’s bestselling cookbook Charcuterie.

18 thoughts on “Homemade Merguez

  1. I love merguez, though now I doubt the merguez I’ve eaten here in the States compares to what you ate in France! Either way, it was delicious. What fun to make your own!

  2. I don’t love lamb and have never had merguez, but this looks really fantastic Lynda…I am going to have to give it a try!

  3. I have to admit that when I saw the word ‘charcuterie’ I was skeptical, partly because I associate that with bacon and ham (which I don’t eat, being strictly kosher) and partly because I’m just not a big meat lover. But lamb is my absolute favorite meat and this looks delicious. I can practically smell it now. I am definitely going to give this a shot, as soon as I can get some ground lamb. (My butcher never seems to have any! Am I the only person who loves the stuff?!)

  4. Ah….a woman after my own heart. These look and sound fabulous, and as you might have guessed, I love your remembrances of Paris. – S

  5. Only once have I had the pleasure of enjoying Merguez sausage, and even then, it was a small sample. Fortunately my fiancee and I received the meat grinder and sausage stuffer attachments for our KitchenAid this Christmas, so we can make our own! Absolutely cannot wait until we’re settled into our new home. Sausage-making party?



  6. You’ve done Merguez quite the honor here, Lynda. I would have never called them oafish – just innovative! (And impressive.)

  7. I used this spice mixture to make veggie lentil patties. It was awesome – and super spicy!

  8. So… did they live up to yer expectations? Can hardly wait to try these saussies…:)

  9. My mother made the most wonderful merguez, the spices were less hot than yours, just coriander seeds, onions, sweet paprika and black coarse pepper with sea salt, hummm I can taste them and smell the medicterranean sea too! other times it was the bountiful grilled sardines! Bon appettit a tous.

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