Autumn, Fall – Page 8

Pumpkin Pecan Roulade

November 20, 2010August 22, 2019by Lynda Balslev9 Comments

The holidays are upon us, and it’s time to get dressed up. The silver needs polishing, the shoes need shining and the kids need scrubbing. Even our food gets dressed up, with stuffings and dressings, garnishes and twists, crystal and porcelain. Nothing escapes scrutiny, including dessert where dustings and dollops are par for the course. And in the spirit of fancifying, what is known as the ordinary cake roll, becomes an elegant roulade at the Thanksgiving table.

What is the difference between a cake roll and roulade, you may ask. Well, nothing. Both terms describe a light cake which is rolled in a spiral with a creamy filling. Yet the blandly descriptive cake roll is what I might consider as an afternoon snack. For my Thanksgiving dinner, I am inviting the roulade, a French term which elegantly and aptly sums up the nature of the dessert as the word itself rolls off the tongue. I want that dessert at our dressed up dinner table.

Language aside, there are other reasons to include a roulade on your menu. It’s elegant yet uncomplicated, remarkably easy to prepare with stunning results. It’s a no-fail recipe, which is a welcome relief during the holidays and frees up more time to dress up for our guests.

Pumpkin Pecan Roulade with Orange Mascarpone Cream
Serves 8-10

For the cake:
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

3 large eggs
1 cup granulated sugar
2/3 cup pumpkin or butternut squash puree
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup finely chopped pecans
1/4 cup confectioners’ sugar

For the filling:
8 ounces mascarpone cheese
1 cup sifted confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest

Prepare cake:
Preheat oven to 375 F. (190 C.) Butter a 12 by 9 by 1 inch sheet pan. Line with parchment paper. Butter paper and dust with flour.
Sift flour, baking soda, cinnamon, salt and nutmeg together in a medium bowl and set aside. Whisk eggs and sugar in a large bowl or with an electric mixer until light and thick. Add pumpkin and vanilla; mix until smooth. Stir in dry ingredients until just combined without over mixing. Pour into prepared pan and spread evenly with a spatula. Sprinkle pecans over batter. Bake in oven until toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 12-15 minutes. Remove and cool on wire rack 5 minutes. While the cake is cooling, lay a clean kitchen towel on the work surface. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup sifted confectioners sugar. Invert cake onto the sugared towel. Carefully peel away the parchment paper and discard. Starting at the long end, carefully roll up the cake, jelly-roll style, in the towel. Cool completely on the wire rack.

Prepare filling:
While the cake is cooling, combine mascarpone, confectioners’ sugar, cream and vanilla in bowl of electric mixer. Beat until light and fluffy. Stir in orange zest.

Assemble roulade:
Gently unroll cake on the work surface. Spread the filling evenly over cake. Carefully roll the cake back up in the same direction, using the towel. Arrange seam-side down on a platter. Dust with confectioners’ sugar. Cut in 3/4 inch slices to serve.

Autumn, Fall, Thanksgiving, Vegetables and Salads, Vegetarian

Thanksgiving Side: Spiced Acorn Squash with Coriander and Lime

November 17, 2010August 8, 2014by Lynda Balslev3 Comments

Spiced Acorn Squash with Coriander and Lime

Have you noticed that fall and winter vegetables are often rock-hard? It’s as though Mother Nature is providing a protective shield for her bounty to hunker down for the colder weather. Unlike the squishy, juiciness of summer berries and tomatoes, autumn’s pumpkins and squash can double as paperweights and door stops. Drop a butternut squash on your foot, and you might break a toe.

Yet appearances can be deceiving. Cook a winter squash and before your eyes it will undergo a culinary transformation. Its ugly-frog exterior, all bulbous, mottled and flecked, morphs and softens with roasting, exposing its inner sweetness. And with some squash, such as acorn and delicata, what was once an impermeable skin becomes edible, complimenting its buttery, vividly colored interior flesh. No sloucher in the nutrient department either, winter squash and pumpkins, are treasure troves packed with iron, potassium, Vitamin A, and rich sources of beta-carotene.

So go ahead and continue to use these rock-hard seasonal sculptures as table decorations or bowling balls. But, I promise you, if you cook them they will transform into the Prince Charming of winter vegetables.

Spiced Acorn Squash with Coriander and Lime

The spice and citrus add brightness to the buttery squash. Do not even think of peeling the skin. Acorn squash skin is edible once cooked, adding texture and nuttiness to the flavors of the dish. Serves 4 as a side.

2 small or one large acorn squash, stem ends removed, halved and seeded
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 red serrano chile pepper, stemmed, seeded, ribs removed, finely chopped
Juice of one lime, about 2 tablespoons
2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander/cilantro leaves

Prepare:
Pre-heat oven to 425 F. (200 C.)
Cut squash in 3/4″ wedges. Toss squash with oil, sugar, paprika, cumin, salt and pepper in a large bowl until squash is evenly coated with spices. Arrange squash in one layer on baking tray, flesh-side down. Roast in oven until tender and golden, about 45 minutes. Remove and cool slightly. Transfer to large bowl and toss with chile pepper, lime juice and cilantro leaves. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Autumn, Fall, Main Course, Pasta, Vegetables and Salads

Pasta with Bacon and Brussel Sprouts

November 12, 2010August 8, 2014by Lynda Balslev8 Comments

Pasta with Bacon and Brussel Sprouts is a match made in heaven – you get to eat your vegetables and have your bacon, too. It’s a perfect dinner in the autumn season when cool grey weather beckons rich and hearty ingredients. Full of healthy crucifers, studded with crispy bacon and bound with a semi-light sauce of chicken stock and cream, it’s at once rich and fresh. This recipe is easy and quick to make with ingredients readily available, making it a great candidate for a weeknight meal.
Pasta with Bacon and Brussel Sprouts

For a twist, substitute brussel sprouts with cauliflower or broccoli. Just be sure not to omit the bacon. Serves 4.

1 pound orrechiette or conchiglie pasta

1/2 pound bacon, cut in 1/2 inch pieces
3/4 pound brussel sprouts, trimmed and halved
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 cup chicken stock
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup finely grated parmesan cheese, plus extra for garnish

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook until al dente. Drain; transfer to a large bowl.
While the pasta is cooking, heat a skillet over medium heat. Add bacon and cook until fat is rendered and golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a plate lined with a paper towel. Discard all but one tablespoon bacon fat from skillet. Add brussel sprouts and saute until they start to soften. Add garlic and saute until fragrant, 1 minutes. Add chicken stock and continue to cook until brussel sprouts are tender. Add cream and simmer until reduced and thickened. Stir in salt and pepper.
Add brussel sprouts and bacon to the pasta. Toss with cheese to combine. Serve with extra cheese on the side.

Appetizers, Autumn, Fall, gluten-free, Thanksgiving, Tians and Casseroles, Vegetables and Salads, Vegetarian, Winter

Beet Gratin with Gruyère and Thyme

November 8, 2010June 5, 2020by Lynda Balslev9 Comments

Beet Gratin with Gruyère and Thyme

I am a beet convert. It took a good long time for me to reconcile with their earthy taste. I gazed at beets from the sidelines, attracted to their vibrant magenta and ochre hues, cognizant of their nutrient-rich flesh, yet I shuddered at their redolence of dirt. As a cook, I wanted to love them. As a parent, I wanted to serve them. So, I willed myself to eat beets until I learned to appreciate them.

At first, I took baby steps. I nibbled small bites. I paired them with limes and oranges, letting the acidity of the citrus tame their earthiness. I grew bolder and roasted beets in olive oil, discovering that fire and char nicely counteracted their dirt-like flavor. My go-to beet became the golden variety, which is pleasantly mild and nuttier in taste. And, eventually, I succeeded. Now, I am a fully fledged beet eater. I order beets in restaurants, and I cook with them. Yet while I no longer shudder at eating a completely naked beet, I continually craft recipes that embrace the beet while tempering their earthy nature.

This recipe for Beet Gratin does just that. It’s unambigous in its ingredients, allowing the beets to shine through in a cast of minimal characters. Yet the co-stars of the dish happen to have their own strength and assertiveness, helping to tone down any earthy qualities that might be lurking in each bite. The layers of beets are thinly cloaked in olive oil. Gruyère cheese is sprinkled between the beets along with fresh thyme and a trace of nutmeg. The presentation is simple and absent of any gratin goopyness. The beets release their juices while cooking, saturating the gratin with their brilliant color, while the flavors meld together. When I made this, it was so good, everyone at the table was reaching for seconds. As a cook and a parent, I find that a very good thing.

Beet Gratin with Gruyère and Thyme

I prepared this recipe in individual ramekins. A gratin dish will also work for family style serving. Red beets, golden beets or a combination may be used.

Unsalted butter
4 medium-sized red beets, peeled
Extra virgin olive oil
4 ounces Gruyere cheese, finely grated
2 tablespoons fresh thyme
Ground nutmeg
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 350 F. (180 C.) Butter 4 ramekins. Thinly slice beets with a mandoline. Arrange one layer of sliced beets in each ramekin (one slice may fit perfectly.) Lightly brush with olive oil. Sprinkle with cheese, a little thyme and a pinch of nutmeg. Lightly sprinkle with salt and pepper. Repeat layering process until ramekins are full, pressing down lightly. Bake in oven until gratins are bubbling, cheese is golden and beets are tender, about 45 minutes. Serve warm with fresh thyme sprigs as garnish.

Autumn, Fall, Legumes, salad, Vegetables and Salads, Vegetarian

Indian Spiced Lentils

November 6, 2010August 8, 2014by Lynda Balslev5 Comments

It’s the time of year when I like to take a culinary holiday in my kitchen. October is behind us, finished in a flourish of pumpkins and candy. Thanksgiving is looming, and thoughts are rife with turkey, stuffings, and pies. Before we know it we’ll be sipping gløgg and baking Christmas cookies, poring over recipes for roasts and trifles. At this time in early November there is a brief lull, lending a moment of quiet respite. During this time I crave recipes that are sturdy and exotic, influenced by traditions that are not associated with Hallmark greeting cards. It’s a window of reflection, healthy eating and escape. It’s also an opportunity to earn extra points in the diet category, so that we are fit and robust, ready to hit the ground running when the holidays are upon us.

Indian Spiced Lentils

Influenced by the spices of India and the Middle East, this salad is economical in ingredients and rich in flavor and nutrients. Makes 6 servings.

Olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground mustard
1/2 teaspoon tumeric
1 cup green lentils
1 1/2 cups chicken stock (or water for vegetarian option)

4 scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts divided
1 green jalapeno pepper, minced
1 red serrano or jalapeno pepper, minced
1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup cilantro leaves, chopped
1/2 cup Italian parsley leaves, chopped

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium saucepan. Add onion and sauté 2 minutes. Add garlic and spices and sauté 1 minute. Add lentils and stir to coat. Add stock. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer until the lentils are soft but chewy, about 40 minutes. Transfer lentils to a large bowl.

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a skillet. Add white part of scallions and peppers. Sauté briefly until peppers brighten in color, 2 minutes. Remove from heat and add to lentils. Stir in pomegranate molasses, salt and pepper. Taste to adjust seasoning. Add green scallions, cilantro and parsley and gently toss to combine. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Autumn, Fall, gluten-free, Vegetarian

Post-Halloween Detox: Spice Roasted Pumpkin Seeds

November 1, 2010August 8, 2014by Lynda Balslev2 Comments

Candy overload? Try this healthy respite, updated from the TasteFood archives.

Looking for a healthy diversion from all of the Halloween candy in your house? Pumpkins are not just good for decoration and their sweet nutrient-rich flesh. Their seeds are high in iron, fiber and protein, rich in amino acids and zinc. So when you are carving up pumpkins or squash for decoration or baking, be sure to save your seeds. Clean and dry them before roasting for best results. Then, when you find yourself peeking into your kids’ Halloween stash, reach instead this healthy, savory snack.

Spice-Roasted Pumpkin Seeds

2 cups pumpkin seeds
2 teaspoon cumin seed
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne, or more to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil

Clean and dry seeds:
Rinse the seeds. Arrange in one layer on a baking tray and leave seeds out to dry at least 3-4 hours or overnight.

Roast the seeds:
Preheat oven to 375 F. (190 C.) Toast the cumin seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, one minute. Grind cumin to a fine powder in a mortar with pestle. Whisk cumin, paprika, salt, cayenne and oil together in a medium bowl. Add dried pumpkins seeds and toss to coat well. Arrange in one layer on baking sheet. Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Cool and store in air-tight container.

Autumn, Fall, Main Course, Soups and Stews, Vegetables and Salads

Butternut Squash, Tomato and Chickpea Ragout with Kale and Couscous

October 29, 2010November 11, 2018by Lynda Balslev10 Comments

The heat of chile, spices of North Africa and earthiness of kale beautifully complement sweet butternut squash in this hearty ragout. Bright, rich and healthy, this recipe is easily prepared in 30 minutes making it a delicious option for a weeknight. If you prefer an even richer stew, Italian sausage or chorizo may be added. Most likely, however, you will find that the meatless version is substantial and satisfying enough to win over any carnivore. Be sure to serve the ragout with couscous to soak up the liquid.

Butternut Squash, Tomato and Chickpea Ragout with Kale and Couscous
Serves 4 to 6.

Extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 red jalapeno or serrano chiles, stemmed, seeded, finely chopped
1 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded, cut in 3/4 inch cubes – about 4 cups
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 1/2 cups chicken stock, divided
1 (14-ounce) can crushed plum tomatoes with juice
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
Salt
3 cups kale leaves, tough stems removed, torn into bite-size pieces
2 cups couscous

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat in a deep sauté pan or stock pot. Add onion and sauté until beginning to soften, 2 minutes. Add garlic and chiles and sauté until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add butternut squash and dry spices; sauté 2 minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups chicken stock and tomatoes with juices. (The squash should be just covered with liquid. Add extra chicken stock if necessary.) Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until squash is tender but firm, 15-20 minutes. Add chickpeas and 1 teaspoon salt. Continue to simmer, 10 minutes. Stir in kale and simmer until leaves are wilted and bright green, 2 minutes.
While the ragout is simmering bring 2 cups chicken stock to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add couscous, 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and remove from heat. Let sit 5 minutes. Fluff with fork.
To serve, spoon couscous into a bowl or shallow plate, leaving a well in the center. Ladle ragout into the center. Garnish with fresh cilantro or parsley leaves.

To prepare with sausage: As a first step, slice 8 ounces hot Italian sausage or chorizo into 1/2 inch pieces. Sauté in deep sauté pan until golden brown on all sides. Transfer sausage to a plate lined with a paper towel. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon rendered fat. Add onion and proceed with instructions above, substituting the sausage fat for the olive oil. Return sausage to the ragout with the chickpeas.

Autumn, Fall, Desserts, France, Fruit, Thanksgiving, Vegetarian

In Season: Apple Tarte Tatin

October 21, 2010March 4, 2019by Lynda Balslev10 Comments

Fall season means baking with apples, and one of my favorite ways to bake with apples is to make a Tarte Tatin. I have posted this recipe before on TasteFood, but, dang, it’s so good, I have to post it again. The method of making a Tarte Tatin is classic to which this recipe stays true, except in its use of a sour cream based pastry which I discovered years ago in Bon Appetit. The pastry is delightfully easy and quick to make with crisp and flaky results. So far, this season I have made at least 4 Tarte Tatins. With each rendition, they have gotten even better, and I would like to share a few small tips with you to ensure delicious results.

Tarte Tatin is an upside down fruit tart. Traditionally, apples are used, however pears, apricots, nectarines and peaches work well, too. The beauty of using apples is that they are firm and do not release too much liquid while cooking and remain relatively intact. To start, the apples cook in boiling butter and sugar until the liquid caramelizes. Cook the caramel until it turns a deep amber color. It shouldn’t be too pale, nor should it overcook since it will quickly burn. Be sure to keep an eye on the caramel as it cooks, rotating the skillet to ensure even cooking. Once the right stage of coloring is achieved, remove the skillet from the heat and quickly top the fruit with the pastry. The pastry will begin to melt from the heat of the skillet, so be efficient, using a knife to push the pastry down between the sides of the skillet and the apples. Pop the skillet in the oven and bake until the pastry is a deep golden brown. It should be firm when tapped.

These simple tips, with a little practice and finesse, will transform apples, butter and sugar into a squidgy and caramelized fruit dessert. I can’t think of a more rewarding practice – can you?

Apple Tarte Tatin
Serves 10-12

For the Sour Cream Pastry:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup chilled unsalted butter, cut in pieces
1/3 cup full fat sour cream

Apple Filling:
1/2 cup unsalted butter, room temperature, cut in 4 pieces
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided
6 large Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and halved
1 egg, beaten to blend, for glaze

Prepare Pastry:
Combine flour, sugar and salt in bowl of food processor. Pulse to blend. Add butter and pulse until butter is size of peas. Add sour cream and pulse until moist clumps form. Gather dough into ball, flatten and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate at least 2 hours. (Can be made one day ahead; refrigerate until use. Pastry dough may also be frozen up to one month in freezer before rolling. Allow to defrost in refrigerator overnight.) Remove pastry from refrigerator and let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes before rolling out.

Prepare Tart:
Arrange butter in bottom of large oven-proof skillet with sloping sides (preferably cast iron.) Sprinkle 1 cup sugar evenly over butter and pan. Cook over medium heat until butter melts, the sugar is partially dissolved and the mixture is bubbling, about 2 minutes. Arrange apples closely together, core-side up, in a circular pattern in the skillet. If necessary, cut remaining apples in quarters to fill in the spaces. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons sugar. Set skillet over medium-high heat. Boil until a thick amber coloured syrup forms, turning skillet to ensure even cooking, about 30-40 minutes.
While the apple mixture is cooking on stove, preheat oven to 425 F. Roll out pastry on floured surface or parchment paper to a round shape to fit size of skillet. Remove skillet from heat. Lay pastry over apple mixture. Cut 3-4 slits in pastry. Brush pastry with some of the egg glaze.

Bake tart until pastry is deep golden brown and firm when tapped, about 30 minutes. Remove tart from oven and cool on rack one minute. Cut around edge of skillet to loosen pastry. Invert the tart onto a platter, using oven mitts. If any of the apples or caramel are stuck in the pan, remove with a knife and arrange on top of tart. Cool tart slightly before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature with dollop of whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

Autumn, Fall, salad

In Season: Frisée and Escarole Salad with Bacon

October 10, 2010August 8, 2014by Lynda Balslev6 Comments

This hearty salad is not bashful. Assertive seasonal greens are tossed with a sharp Dijon vinaigrette, then scattered with crispy lardons (bacon cubes) and croutons. While this salad might easily be the star of an easy weeknight dinner, served with a wedge of runny cheese and a glass of red wine, it’s an appropriately bold accompaniment to a rich and meaty stew such as Beef Bourguignon. And, of course, it’s an excuse to eat more bacon – which, in our home, is always in season.

Frisée and Escarole Salad with Lardons

Inspired by the French Salade Lyonnaise, which traditionally calls for sautéing the leaves in warm bacon drippings and topping the salad with a poached egg, this version omits the egg and browns the croutons in the bacon fat.

Serves 4

One medium head frisée, ends and outer leaves removed, washed
One half head of escarole, ends and outer leaves removed, washed
6 ounces slab bacon, rind trimmed, cut in 1/4″ cubes
8 or 12 baguette slices, 1/2″ thick
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Place frisée and escarole in a large bowl.
Heat a skillet over medium heat and add bacon. Cook until fat is rendered and bacon is crispy golden. Transfer bacon with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with a paper towel to drain. Pour off all of the bacon fat except for one tablespoon. Return skillet to stovetop. Add baguette slices in one layer in batches. Cook over medium heat until golden on both sides, turning once. Transfer bread to another plate lined with a paper towel.

Combine vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Slowly pour in olive oil, whisking constantly to emulsify. Pour dressing over salad leaves and toss to combine. Arrange salad on serving plates. Top with bacon and baguette croutons.

Autumn, Fall, Christmas, gluten-free, Thanksgiving, Vegetables and Salads, Vegetarian

Smashed Potatoes and Celery Root with Horseradish and Parmesan

October 3, 2010January 28, 2021by Lynda Balslev11 Comments

Celery root teams up with potato and spicy horseradish for a satisfying smash. Popular in Europe and less used in the U.S., celery root, also known as celeriac, is the dark horse of tubers. Don’t let it’s gnarly, bulbous exterior put you off. Once you peel away the skin a milky white interior is revealed, fragrant with celery. Its smooth and mellow flavor adds a delightful dimension to mashed potatoes, gratins, soups and stews.

Smashed Potatoes with Celery Root and Horseradish and Parmesan

Nutrient-rich potato skins fleck this side dish, adding flavor and texture. Peel the potatoes if you prefer a smoother texture. Serves 6-8.

1 1/2 pounds yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 1/2 pounds celery root, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
Bouquet garni: 1 bay leaf and 3 thyme sprigs, tied in cheese cloth with kitchen string
Salt
1/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into pieces
3/4 cup sour cream or creme fraiche
3 tablespoons finely grated fresh horseradish, divided
3 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, divided
1 teaspoon black pepper

Combine potatoes and celery root in large pot. Cover with cold water. Add bouquet garni and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cook, partially covered until potatoes and celery root are very tender, about 20 minutes. Drain thoroughly. Transfer to a large bowl. Add butter and smash with a potato masher. Stir in sour cream, 2 tablespoons horseradish, 1 tablespoon cheese and black pepper. Add more salt to taste. Transfer potatoes to a buttered casserole or baking dish. (Potatoes may be prepared up to one day in advance to this point. Let cool completely, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.)

Preheat oven to 350 F. (180 C.) Mix 1 tablespoon horseradish with 2 tablespoons cheese in a small bowl. Sprinkle over top of potatoes. Bake in oven until top is tinged golden brown and potatoes are heated through, about 25 minutes. Serve immediately.