Porcini Cheese Fondue

It perplexes me when the subject of cheese fondue comes up, and it’s often accompanied by a snide reference to the seventies. I find it sad that this quintessential alpine dish is relegated to a by-gone era evoking images of shag rugs, unfortunate hair and textured bell-bottoms. Certainly this was not intended when the rural inhabitants of Swiss and French mountainous villages devised a warming winter dish incorporating their local cheese and winter staples.

I may be biased. I was never a fan of the seventies, even when I lived in them. Conversely, I am a huge fan of Switzerland. After all, I lived there for 10 years following my stint at cooking school in Paris. My husband and I were married in Switzerland, and our children were born there. As a result, Switzerland holds a special place in our hearts and will always be considered home to our family.

The best way to a country’s soul is to experience its cuisine. As an expat in Geneva it was a delicious pleasure to embrace Swiss specialties, namely chocolate and cheese. We’ll leave the chocolate for another post. As for the cheese, we enjoyed it in all of its forms, and the Swiss tradition of melting it in deep pots with wine and spirits quickly became a favorite. When we eventually moved from Geneva to London, and then on to Copenhagen, I became more reliant on making my own version of fondue for wintry family dinners to satisfy our wistful cravings.

This recipe has been tweaked and fine-tuned over the years, influenced by taste and available ingredients. In addition to serving it with the usual bread, I like to pass around bowls of parboiled baby potatoes, cauliflower and broccoli florets for dipping.

Porcini Cheese Fondue

The extra ingredient in this cheese fondue is porcini mushrooms, which I highly recommend adding. They will simmer in the cheese imparting a rich umami flavor to the fondue. If you prefer a simple cheese fondue, omit the porcini. Serves 4.

3 tablespoons Calvados or Poire William brandy
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for serving
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
2 cups dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 small garlic clove, minced
1 pound high quality alpine cheese such as Gruyère, Emmental, Comté. (I use 2/3 Gruyere and 1/3 Emmental), grated
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in hot water until reconstituted, drained, squeezed dry and coarsely chopped
1 loaf peasant bread, cut in 3/4 inch cubes

Note: Have all of your ingredients ready before you begin. Once you start, the fondue will come together quickly, and during this time it must be constantly stirred. The fondue must not come to a boil during this time.

Combine Calvados, cornstarch, salt, 1/2 teaspoon black pepper and nutmeg in a small bowl, stirring to dissolve the cornstarch. Set aside.
Add wine and garlic to a large heavy saucepan or fondue pot. Heat over medium heat until tiny bubbles form, giving the wine a fizzy appearance without bringing to a boil. Add cheese one handful at a time, stirring constantly until each handful is melted before adding the next – do not let the fondue boil.
Once cheese is added, continue stirring one minute – do not let the fondue boil.
Stir in cornstarch. Continue stirring until mixture thickens to fondue consistency. (I find that some cornstarch brands thicken more easily than others. If your fondue remains thin, add 1 more tablespoon cornstarch diluted with 2 tablespoons white wine.) If using porcini, stir the mushrooms into the cheese at this point. Remove from heat. Pour cheese into a warm fondue pot if necessary. Serve immediately.

Serve with extra ground pepper, bread and parboiled vegetables such as small potatoes, cauliflower and broccoli florets.

If you like this you might enjoy these TasteFood recipes:
Coq au Vin
Root Vegetable Gratin
Macaroni, Cauliflower and Cheese

or these fondue recipes from the food blogs:
Mexican Hot Chocolate Fondue
from Andrea Meyers
Champagne Fondue from A Communal Table
Crab Fondue from Simply Recipes

11 responses to “Porcini Cheese Fondue

  1. You are absolutely correct and I won’t make any more remarks about fondue belonging in the 1970′s!! This is a fantastic recipe.

  2. Lynda,

    What a beautiful site!!! I am with you – was never a fan of the 70′s but I am a fan of fondue – honestly, what could be better than dipping into hot, melted cheese? The addition of the porcini’s is intriguing and I will make a note to try it the next time I make fondue!!

    Thank you so much for linking to A Communal Table!

  3. I have a fondness for both Switzerland and the 70s; can we still be friends? :) The unfortunate thing, though, is that I never had fondue while there. I did have lots of raclette though! This sounds great, though, and I can’t wait to add porcini mushrooms the next time I make it.

  4. Pingback: Miss Moss : Fondue Party

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  7. I am looking forward to making this tomorrow! I do have a question though. I went out to the store today and bought fontina, gruyere and emmetal. However, the recipes I have come across call for gruyere & emmental OR just fontina. How would fontina work added into this mixture? I really would like to try your recipe as I also have some dried mushrooms laying around. Thank you!

    • I have not used fontina in fondue. I am sure it’s good, but would recommend just using the gruyere and emmental if you have enough (I am biased to Swiss cheese :))

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