If you are anticipating a holiday food hangover this season, then take note of this recipe. Mushroom Barley Soup with Miso and Kale is the perfect antidote to excess. Not only does it put to use any left over turkey stock you may have, this healthy, economical soup is loaded with vegetables and high fiber barley. Handfuls of nutrient-rich kale are added to the soup in the end, so there is just enough time to wilt the leaves without overcooking. The extra ingredient to this wholesome soup is a spoonful of red miso paste, which adds depth and that elusive umami quality which keeps you coming back for more. Luckily, this is one meal you can indulge in seconds without feeling guilty.
Mushroom Barley Soup with Miso and Kale
Chicken stock may easily be substituted for turkey stock. Serves 4-6.
Olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
Salt
8 ounces sliced assorted mushrooms, such shitake, cremini, cepes
2 large carrots, sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 cup barley
2 teaspoons fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried
8 cups chicken or turkey stock
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 cups kale leaves, tough stems removed, leaves shredded
1 tablespoon red miso paste
Heat oil in a medium sized stock pot over medium heat. Add onion and 1 teaspoon salt; sauté 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and carrots; sauté 3 minutes. Add barley and thyme and stir to coat. Add stock, bay leaf and pepper. Bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until barley is tender, about 30 minutes. Stir in kale. Simmer until kale turns bright green and wilts, 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the miso. Taste For seasoning. Serve garnished with fresh thyme.
This recipe is worth celebrating. Porcini and Rosemary Crusted Beef Tenderloin has been selected as a winner in this week’s Food52 contest for Your Best Holiday Roast. And that’s not the only reason it’s worthy of a party. Dried porcini mushrooms blitzed with fresh rosemary sprigs and black peppercorns create an umami-rich rub for the beef, forming a crust that melts into the meat while roasting. It’s stand alone delicious, yet when napped with a luxurious port wine reduction infused with more porcini and rosemary, this dish becomes an elegant dinner worthy of any holiday celebration. So go on, name a holiday – or just call it the weekend. This is a treat that your family and friends will be sure to enjoy. And that’s worth celebrating, too.
Porcini and Rosemary Crusted Beef Tenderloin with Porcini Port Sauce
Salting the meat in advance ensures juicy results and a crispy crust. A combination of port and red wine is used in this recipe. Red wine may be substituted with additional port. Serves 6 to 8.
For the beef tenderloin:
1 center cut beef tenderloin, about 3 pounds
Salt
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
Olive oil
For the Porcini Port Wine Sauce:
1/2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms, reconstituted in 3/4 cup hot water
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
1 cup port wine
1 cup heavy-bodied red wine
2 rosemary sprigs
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1. Season the tenderloin all over with salt. Refrigerate 4 hours or up to 24 hours. Thirty minutes before roasting remove beef from the refrigerator.
2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Combine the mushrooms, rosemary, and peppercorns in a spice grinder. Grind to a coarse powder. Rub the beef with olive oil, then coat all over with the rosemary porcini rub.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the beef and brown on all sides, about 8 minutes, turning as necessary. Transfer the beef to a roasting pan, and set the skillet aside without rinsing for the sauce.
4. Roast beef in the oven until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part reads 125*F, about 30 minutes for medium-rare. Remove from the oven and transfer to a cutting board. Tent with foil and let stand for 15 minutes.
5. While the beef is roasting, prepare the sauce. Strain the porcini water through an un-bleached paper towel into a small bowl. Reserve the strained liquid. Coarsely chop the porcini.
6. Add 1 tablespoon butter, the shallots, and porcini to the reserved skillet. Sauté over medium heat until the shallots are translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the port, scraping up any brown bits in the pan. Add the red wine, mushroom stock, and rosemary. Bring to a boil and cook uncovered until the sauce is reduced by about half to approximately 1 1/2 cups. Add the salt and taste for seasoning. Strain through a fine-meshed seive into a small saucepan, pressing firmly on the solids; discard solids. Heat the sauce over medium heat. Whisk in 2 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon at a time. Keep warm until serving.
7. To serve, carve the meat in slices. Serve on warm plates with the porcini port sauce.
It perplexes me when the subject of cheese fondue comes up, and it’s often accompanied by a snide reference to the seventies. I find it sad that this quintessential alpine dish is relegated to a by-gone era evoking images of shag rugs, unfortunate hair and textured bell-bottoms. Certainly this was not intended when the rural inhabitants of Swiss and French mountainous villages devised a warming winter dish incorporating their local cheese and winter staples.
I may be biased. I was never a fan of the seventies, even when I lived in them. Conversely, I am a huge fan of Switzerland. After all, I lived there for 10 years following my stint at cooking school in Paris. My husband and I were married in Switzerland, and our children were born there. As a result, Switzerland holds a special place in our hearts and will always be considered home to our family.
The best way to a country’s soul is to experience its cuisine. As an expat in Geneva it was a delicious pleasure to embrace Swiss specialties, namely chocolate and cheese. We’ll leave the chocolate for another post. As for the cheese, we enjoyed it in all of its forms, and the Swiss tradition of melting it in deep pots with wine and spirits quickly became a favorite. When we eventually moved from Geneva to London, and then on to Copenhagen, I became more reliant on making my own version of fondue for wintry family dinners to satisfy our wistful cravings.
This recipe has been tweaked and fine-tuned over the years, influenced by taste and available ingredients. In addition to serving it with the usual bread, I like to pass around bowls of parboiled baby potatoes, cauliflower and broccoli florets for dipping.
Porcini Cheese Fondue
The extra ingredient in this cheese fondue is porcini mushrooms, which I highly recommend adding. They will simmer in the cheese imparting a rich umami flavor to the fondue. If you prefer a simple cheese fondue, omit the porcini. Serves 4.
3 tablespoons Calvados or Poire William brandy
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for serving
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
2 cups dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 small garlic clove, minced
1 pound high quality alpine cheese such as Gruyère, Emmental, Comté. (I use 2/3 Gruyere and 1/3 Emmental), grated
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in hot water until reconstituted, drained, squeezed dry and coarsely chopped
1 loaf peasant bread, cut in 3/4 inch cubes
Note: Have all of your ingredients ready before you begin. Once you start, the fondue will come together quickly, and during this time it must be constantly stirred. The fondue must not come to a boil during this time.
Combine Calvados, cornstarch, salt, 1/2 teaspoon black pepper and nutmeg in a small bowl, stirring to dissolve the cornstarch. Set aside.
Add wine and garlic to a large heavy saucepan or fondue pot. Heat over medium heat until tiny bubbles form, giving the wine a fizzy appearance without bringing to a boil. Add cheese one handful at a time, stirring constantly until each handful is melted before adding the next – do not let the fondue boil.
Once cheese is added, continue stirring one minute – do not let the fondue boil.
Stir in cornstarch. Continue stirring until mixture thickens to fondue consistency. (I find that some cornstarch brands thicken more easily than others. If your fondue remains thin, add 1 more tablespoon cornstarch diluted with 2 tablespoons white wine.) If using porcini, stir the mushrooms into the cheese at this point. Remove from heat. Pour cheese into a warm fondue pot if necessary. Serve immediately.
Serve with extra ground pepper, bread and parboiled vegetables such as small potatoes, cauliflower and broccoli florets.
If you are anticipating a holiday food hangover this season, then take note of this recipe. Mushroom Barley Soup with Miso and Kale is the perfect antidote to excess. Not only does it put to use any left over turkey stock you may have, this healthy, economical soup is loaded with vegetables and high fiber barley. Handfuls of nutrient-rich kale are added to the soup in the end, so there is just enough time to wilt the leaves without overcooking. The extra ingredient to this wholesome soup is a spoonful of red miso paste, which adds depth and that elusive umami quality which keeps you coming back for more. Luckily, this is one meal you can indulge in seconds without feeling guilty.
Mushroom Barley Soup with Miso and Kale
Chicken stock may easily be substituted for turkey stock. Serves 4-6.
Olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
Salt
8 ounces sliced assorted mushrooms, such shitake, cremini, cepes
2 large carrots, sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 cup barley
2 teaspoons fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried
8 cups chicken or turkey stock
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 cups kale leaves, tough stems removed, leaves shredded
1 tablespoon red miso paste
Heat oil in a medium sized stock pot over medium heat. Add onion and 1 teaspoon salt; sauté 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and carrots; sauté 3 minutes. Add barley and thyme and stir to coat. Add stock, bay leaf and pepper. Bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until barley is tender, about 30 minutes. Stir in kale. Simmer until kale turns bright green and wilts, 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in miso. Taste to check for seasoning. Serve garnished with fresh thyme.
This morning, in honor of Mother’s Day, we went to the farmers market with the satisfying intention of purchasing ingredients for our dinner. Beautiful New York strip steaks were on display and immediately went into our basket. Asparagus, shitake mushrooms, strawberries, peas and fava beans quickly followed. Our final purchase was a bunch of garlic scapes, impossible to pass by, as they feistily vied for attention, announcing their assertiveness – if not in taste, than in their spiky shape.
Garlic scapes resemble an oversized chive with a bulbous flower at the end. The stalks are firm with a peppery bite and mild garlic flavor. They are wonderful in a stir-fry, because they retain their crispness, and impart a mellow, garlicky flavor. The flowers are edible and, when cooked, have a somewhat astringent and earthy flavor.
When we arrived home, I made a paste of garlic, rosemary, sea salt and olive oil and smeared it all over the steaks to marinate in during the afternoon. While they stewed in garlic and rosemary, I prepared a stir-fry of Shitake Mushrooms and Garlic Scapes to serve over the steaks as a fresh garnish, along with grilled asparagus, new potatoes and fresh strawberries and cream for dessert. I can’t think of a better Mother’s Day celebration.
New York Strip Steak with Sautéed Shiitake Mushrooms and Garlic Scapes Serves 4
Steaks: 3 garlic cloves, minced
2 rosemary sprigs
1 tablespoon coarse sea salt, such as Maldon
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 New York or ribeye steaks
Stir-fry: 2 tablespoons olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
4 to 6 elephant garlic scapes, bulbs removed and saved for another use, stalks thinly sliced
1 sprig rosemary
6 ounces (180 g) shiitake mushrooms, wiped clean with a paper towel, ends trimmed, sliced
1/3 cup (80 ml) beef or chicken stock
2 tablespoons soy sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Fresh rosemary sprigs for garnish
Combine garlic, rosemary, and salt in a mortar with a pestle. Smash the garlic and bruise the rosemary. Mix in the olive oil and black pepper.
Rub the oil all over the steaks. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours. Remove from refrigerator one hour before grilling.
Prepare the vegetables: Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the garlic scapes and sauté 1 minute. Add the rosemary sprig and shitake mushrooms and sauté until the mushrooms begin to release their juices and turn golden brown. Stir in the stock and deglaze the pan and then add the soy sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Prepare the grill for direct cooking over high heat. Grill the steaks over direct heat until cooked to your desired doneness, 6 to 8 minutes for medium-rare, turning as needed.
Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before slicing. Arrange the steaks on serving plates or platter. Spoon the shitake and garlic scape stir-fry over the meat. Garnish with rosemary sprigs.
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 chicken breast halves, with skin
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 lb. (250 g.) assorted mushrooms (such as white, crimini, shiitake) stems trimmed, halved
3 leeks, white and pale green parts, cleaned, sliced in 1/4″ pieces
1 teaspoon dried thyme or 1 tablespoon fresh
1/4 cup (60 ml.) dry white wine
1/2 cup (120 ml.) chicken stock
1/2 cup heavy cream
Heat one tablespoon olive oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Salt and pepper chicken all over. Add chicken to skillet, skin-side down. Cook, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, about 4 minutes. Remove chicken from skillet.
Reduce heat to medium and add one tablespoon olive oil to skillet. Add mushrooms and leeks and cook, stirring, over medium heat until leeks are vibrant and vegetables are tender but not too soft, 3-4 minutes. Add thyme and sauté one minute. Add white wine and simmer until most of the wine is evaporated. Add chicken stock and return chicken to pan. Cover and simmer over medium-low heat until chicken is cooked through, 5-8 minutes. Remove chicken from pan and tent with foil to keep warm.
Add cream to vegetables and simmer until cream and stock reduce by a third and begin to thicken. Arrange chicken on serving plates or platter. Spoon sauce over chicken. Serve with rice.
