Seared Sea Scallops with Gingered Pea Purée and Lemon Cilantro Gremolata

Scallop Gremolata tf

Sometimes, it’s all in the accessories. I first made this recipe a year ago when I was experimenting with cilantro in a gremolata and decided to combine it with seared scallops. The scallops were served with a simple spring pea purée and garnished with the gremolata. The dish was beautiful to look at, and the peas exuded a soft sweetness that married well with the briny scallop. Since then, it has been a favorite go-to recipe for special occasions – the figurative little black dress in my cooking repertoire.

But, like any wardrobe, recipes can stand a tweak from time to time. Maybe it was my mood or maybe it was the dreary weather, but when I made this recipe the other day, I craved a little extra zing. So, I made a few additions to the pea purée: fresh ginger and a pinch of cayenne. The result was delightful. The extra touches bolstered the flavor of the purée, distinguishing it from the sweet scallops while complementing the assertive lemon cilantro gremolata. Like a special scarf to the figurative little black dress, these culinary accessories were the flourishes I needed to make this recipe sparkle.

Seared Sea Scallops with Gingered Pea Purée and Lemon Cilantro Gremolata
Serves 4 as a main course, 8 as an appetizer

For the Cilantro Gremolata:
1 cup cilantro leaves, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Pea Purée:
2 cups shelled English peas
salt
1 large garlic clove
1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
freshly ground black pepper
pinch cayenne

16 large sea scallops, about 1 1/2 pounds
extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Prepare the Gremolata:
Combine the cilantro, garlic, lemon zest, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Mix together and set aside.

Prepare the Pea Purée:
Bring 4 cups water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add 2 teaspoons salt and the peas. Cook until peas are tender. Remove from heat and drain peas, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid.
Combine peas, garlic, ginger, olive oil, lemon juice, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon black pepper and cayenne in bowl of food processor. Purée until smooth. Add some of the reserved water (approximately 1/4 cup) to thin to desired consistency; the purée should not be too thin. Discard remaining water. Transfer purée to a bowl and keep warm.

Prepare scallops:
Pat scallops dry and sprinkle all over with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in skillet over medium-high heat. Add half of the scallops, taking care not to overcrowd the pan. Cook, turning once, until brown on both sides and just cooked through, about 4 minutes. Transfer to plate and keep warm. Repeat with remaining scallops.

To assemble, spoon pea purée on serving plates. Top with scallops. Sprinkle scallops and purée with gremolata. Drizzle lightly with extra-virgin olive oil. Serve immediately.

Oyster Stew with Chorizo and Spinach

Oyster Stew

I love a good fish soup, and one of my favorites is chowder. Depending on what looks best in the market, I usually choose a firm-fleshed fish such as halibut or salmon and call it fish chowder, or add clams and call it (surprise) clam chowder. Either way, I add a smoky component, such as bacon or smoked salmon. The smokiness is crucial to the flavor of the soup. This recipe stays in the shellfish lane and incorporates fresh oysters. The same principle applies in terms of smoky flavor, and chorizo adds the necessary kick to the milky broth. Handfuls of fresh spinach help to lift the soup, adding a dose of veggies to justify the luxurious cream.

Oyster Stew with Chorizo and Spinach

Serves 4

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
6 oz. (180 g.) chorizo sausage, cut in 1/4-inch slices
1 medium onion, chopped
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup shucked oysters (about 12), liquor drained and reserved
3 cups baby spinach leaves
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the chorizo and cook until golden brown, about 5 minutes, turning as needed. Transfer the chorizo to a plate lined with a paper towel.
2. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from the saucepan. Add the onion and sauté over medium heat until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the milk, cream, and reserved oyster liquor. Bring to a boil and stir in the oysters. Simmer for about 2 minutes, and then add the spinach and cook until wilted, about 2 more minutes. Season with the salt and pepper to taste.
3. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

Lobster Bisque – a gift that just keeps giving

Lobster xmas house

reprinted from the TasteFood holiday archives

A gift box labelled “Perishable” arrived at our home earlier this week. I had a heads-up on this, because my mother, who lives on the coast of Maine, mentioned she was sending us something edible for the holidays.  When the box arrived I was on my way out the door, running late to go into the city with a friend. When the deliveryman handed me the box, I imagined a fruitcake or chocolate. I set the parcel on my kitchen table and hurriedly put on my shoes by the door.  Suddenly, the box shifted. I looked up in surprise, and my dog started growling.  I hesitated, but the box didn’t move again, and my friend was outside tooting her car horn ready to go.  Figuring the contents of the box were just settling, I picked up the box and placed it on a bench outside the front door in the cold air.  After all the box said “Perishable.”  I would tend to it when I came home.

An hour later my husband called me on my phone.  He had arrived home early and discovered the box.  Did I know the contents?  I paused, knowing something was coming.  He continued to tell me that we were the proud owners of 2 new family members.  As he explained further it suddenly came to me: They were lobsters. From Maine. Of course.

So now what?  I love lobster, but I don’t like to cook them.  I face this contradiction every summer when we visit Maine.  My husband is understanding and clearly not as conflicted in the lobster department, so generously offered to stun them and boil them before I came home.  And when I did I found a platter of freshly cooked lobster.  We enjoyed them for dinner, saving and freezing the shells and extra meat to make a bisque.  Several days later I cooked the shells, making a rich stock for the base of the bisque to which I added the remaining lobster meat and cream.  Served in demi-tasse cups it was a sublime and elegant addition to a holiday party, an extra treat created from the gift that keeps giving.

Bisque

Lobster Bisque
an elegant addition to a holiday or celebratory dinner

Makes 4-6 portions

2 cooked lobsters

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/3 cup (80 ml.) brandy
1 fennel bulb, halved lengthwise, sliced thinly
3 shallots, sliced thinly
2 garlic cloves, cut in slivers
8 black peppercorns
3 tablespoons tomato paste
4 cups water

2 cups heavy cream

Prepare stock:
Working over a large bowl to catch juices, break off lobster tails and claws.  Crack tails and claws and remove meat.  Chop lobster meat in large chunks.  Cover and chill.
Coarsely chop lobster shells and bodies.  Place shells in bowl.  Reserve lobster juice from the bowl.

Heat oil in a large pot over high heat.  Add lobster shells and bodies and sear without stirring for one minute.  Stir them and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the shells begin to brown, about 5 minutes.
Add brandy, fennel, shallots, garlic and peppercorns.  Reduce heat to medium-low.  Cook, stirring, until vegetables soften, about 3 minutes.  Add tomato paste and water.  Bring to a boil.  Boil for 20 minutes.  Remove from heat and let stand for 15 minutes.
Strain through a fine-meshed strainer, pressing firmly on solids.  (Can be made in advance to this point.  Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days or freeze up to one month.)

Add cream to lobster stock.  Simmer 10 minutes.  Add lobster meat.  Stir to heat through.
Serve in bowls or demi-tasse cups.

Crab and Shrimp Bisque:
If lobster is not readily available, you can substitute the lobster with crab or shrimp.  In either case, pre-cook the crab or shrimp.  Then remove the shells, saving the meat.  Cook the shells and follow the recipe as noted above.

Note:
The bisque pictured above has lobster and shrimp meat, since we ate a good deal of the lobster when it was freshly cooked.