Spicy Halibut Stew with Chorizo and Kale

Spicy Halibut Stew with Chorizo and Kale

Halibut STew

I was tempted to make a fish chowder last night. Nothing beats a rich and creamy chowder on a rainy day. However, when I opened my refrigerator a bag of kale fell out.  It’s curly leaves were bursting out of the plastic demanding attention. Obligingly, I started to think of other possibilities.  A container of chicken stock was sitting squarely on the middle shelf, patiently waiting to be put to use, and I decided to change course. Instead of chowder, I would make a lighter stew with the fresh halibut I had purchased in the morning. I wanted a smoky component to lend depth to the flavor of the soup, so I fished a chorizo sausage from the meat drawer. I would also add chunks of potato that would complement the sturdy greens. The result? Satisfying, rustic dinner in a bowl:

Spicy Halibut Stew with Chorizo and Kale

Serves 4

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 fennel bulb, ends and fronds trimmed, chopped
8 oz. spicy chorizo, cut in 1/2″ slices
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon salt
1 bay leaf
2 large Yukon gold potatoes, cut in 1/2″ cubes
6 cups chicken broth
1/2 lb. kale, ends trimmed, washed, coarsely chopped
1 lb. halibut filet or other firm fleshed white fish, cut in 1″ pieces
Flat leaf parsley for garnish
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat olive oil in a soup pot over medium heat.  Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring, one minute. Add fennel and chorizo and continue cooking, stirring, until onion is translucent and fennel begins to soften. Add potatoes, thyme, oregano, salt and bay leaf and toss to coat in the oil.  Add stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until the potatoes are nearly tender.  Stir in kale and cook until leaves brighten and stalks soften, about 3 minutes.  Add halibut and carefully submerge in stock. Gently cook over medium heat until fish is just cooked through.  Add extra salt if necessary. Remove from heat. Serve in warm soup bowls garnished with parsley sprigs and freshly ground black pepper.

Gravlax and Christmas

Gravlaks

The Danish Christmas season would not be complete without many Christmas Lunches. Christmas Lunch is the ubiquitous term for a multi-coursed feast punctuated by multiple toasts with schnaps, beer and wine.  The season for these festive lunches spans the weeks of advent to several days following Christmas day.  “Lunch” is actually a misnomer, since these smorgasbords can take place either during the day or evening.

A traditional Danish Christmas Lunch begins with a fish course, followed by meat, cheese and dessert. To me, the fish course sums up the beauty of nordic cuisine: Fresh, minimalist and refined. Herring, fjord shrimp and salmon are served open-faced on various breads (smørrebrød) with garnishes. There are many herring preparations: marinated with dill, folded in curried cream, spiced with wine and cloves. Every family has their own recipe which they think is best.  Fjord shrimp are another Nordic delicacy: tiny shrimp the size of a fingernail, painstakingly peeled and artfully arranged in a towering piles on soft white french bread, and crowned with a dollop of creme fraiche and a squeeze of lemon.

My favorite fish is gravlax. It’s preparation and presentation are the essence of Nordic cuisine in simplicity and taste.Salmon is cured over days until it is meltingly soft with a clean taste of the sea. It’s edges are flecked with pepper and dill and tinged with salt, adding a restrained flavor that doesn’t overpower the fish.

Gravlax Platter

Every Christmas I make my own Gravlax which we enjoy on Christmas day or New Years Eve.  It’s very easy to prepare.  Pay attention to the quality of the fish:  It must be very fresh with a good consistency, not too mushy and preferably an Atlantic fish, such as Loch Duart Salmon.   To serve, fold a slice of Gravlax on toasted brioche bread.  Squeeze a few drops of fresh lemon juice and smear a spoonful of Honey Dill Mustard  on the fish.  Garnish with a dill sprigs.

Gravlax

Gravlax (gravlaks in Danish and Norwegian or gravad lax in Swedish) literally means salmon in a grave or hole.  During the middle ages fisherman would salt salmon and let it ferment by burying it in a hole above high-tide line. Nowadays (unelss you wish to connect with your inner-viking) it’s not necessary to bury salmon in sand, but, rather in salt and sugar and let it sit in the refrigerator.  The salmon will cure over several days, during which the salt and sugar will turn into liquid, creating a brine.

Serves a party

One side of salmon, about 3 lbs. (1.5 kg.), with skin, pin bones removed
1 tablespoon white peppercorns
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
10 oz. (350 g.) sea salt
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1 cup fresh dill sprigs
1/4 cup Akavit or vodka

Finely grind peppercorns with a mortar and pestle.  Mix pepper, salt, and sugars together in a medium bowl.   Rub fish all over with salt mixture.  Line a long baking pan or dish with plastic wrap.  Place half the dill sprigs over plastic wrap.  Arrange salmon, skin-side down on dill.  Sprinkle Akavit over salmon. Top with remaining dill.  Cover with additional plastic wrap, sealing the fish.  Place a heavy pan or tray on fish.  Weigh down pan with cans or bottles.  Refrigerate for 3 days.

To serve, remove fish from refrigerate.  Remove plastic wrap.  Pour off collected juices and wipe off excess brine and dill.  Slice diagonally from one corner of the salmon towards the center of the fillet. Serve with french bread or toasted brioche.  Garnish with fresh dill sprigs and honey dill mustard.

Honey Dill Mustard

1/4 cup honey mustard
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
1/2 cup grapeseed oil
1/4 cup chopped dill sprigs
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt

Whisk mustard and vinegar together in a small bowl.  Slowly whisk in oil to emulsify.  Stir in dill, pepper and salt.

Smoked Salmon Fish Cakes with Yogurt-Cilantro Sauce

Homemade smoky salmon fish cakes

It’s not a good sign, when it’s early December and I am ready for a time-out.  It feels like we are on a holiday train with no stopping until 2010.  Don’t get me wrong, I am all for a good celebration, but right now I welcome a cozy night in with no plans, no cocktails and no make-up.  On a night like this, I like to make savory, comfort food.  One family favorite is Smoked Salmon Fish Cakes.  Now to some, this may not be the first comfort food choice to leap to mind, but to me, a salty, crispy, smoky fish cake is the perfect RX for too many holiday engagements.

In my eternal search for the perfect fish cake, I found the best way to get the results I craved was to create my own recipe which had all of the right elements.  This ideal fishcake is packed with fish, has little filler and is not mushy.  It’s salty and piquant with just a little onion sweetness, bursting with fresh herbs and studded with bits of chile.  Dipped in a garlicky Yogurt-Cilantro Sauce spiked with harissa, this dish falls in the addictive category with everyone reaching for more.

Smoked Salmon Fish Cakes

Makes  about 16  2-inch diameter cakes

1 1/2 pounds salmon filets, skinned, pin bones removed
1/4 pounds smoked salmon
1 3/4 cup Panko bread crumbs
One small onion grated with juices, about 1/4 cup
2 scallions, ends trimmed, minced
2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
2  tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (coriander)
2 tablespoons Greek-style whole milk yogurt
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon Tabasco, to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Yogurt-Cilantro Sauce (see below)

Prepare:
Combine salmon filets and smoked salmon in bowl of food processor.  Pulse to chop without over processing.  The consistency should be finely chopped without becoming mushy.
Transfer salmon to a large bowl.  Add 1/4 cup Panko breadcrumbs, onion  with juices, scallions, parsley and cilantro.  Mix with a fork to combine.  Add yogurt, lemon juice, tabasco, pepper.  Stir to combine.
Pour remaining 1 1/2 cup Panko breadcrumbs in a shallow bowl.  Using a soup spoon scoop out a generous amount of salmon mixture.  Carefully form it into a plump 2″ patty with your hands.  Roll cake in Panko to cover.  Place on platter.  Repeat with remaining salmon.  Add more Panko to bowl if necessary.  (Patties can be formed up to 3 hours before cooking.  Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate.)

Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in skillet over medium-high heat.  Add fish cakes in one layer.  Fry until browned, turning once, about 3 minutes per side.  Use a spatter guard to prevent oil from spattering.  Transfer cakes to a plate lined with paper towel to drain.  Repeat with remaining salmon mixture.
Transfer cakes to pre-warmed serving platter.  Garnish with lemon wedges and parsley leaves.  Serve with Yogurt-Cilantro Sauce.

Yogurt-Cilantro Sauce:

1 cup Greek-style whole milk  yogurt
1 small garlic clove, minced
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1-2 teaspoons Harissa sauce, to taste
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro/coriander

Combine all the ingredients, except cilantro, in a medium bowl.  Stir to combine.  (Sauce can be made up to 4 hours before serving.  Cover and refrigerate.)  Before serving, stir in fresh cilantro.

Pesce al Sale – Whole Fish Baked in Sea Salt

Pesce al Sale 003

I often prepare a whole fish in sea salt when we entertain friends. This is a dish that is surprisingly easy to prepare despite its dramatic presentation. The entire fish is encased in sea salt, baked in the oven and presented whole at the table. Its hardened crust of sea salt and egg white is cracked open to reveal a succulent, steaming and aromatic fish.  Have your fishmonger clean and descale the fish when you purchase it. The fish can be baked simply as is, or stuffed with a combination of lemon slices, garlic, and fennel fronds. Serve the fillets drizzled with your best extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of fresh lemon. It’s also a good time to break out the special sea salt flakes or fleur de sel that you may be saving for a special occasion.

Pesce al Sale filets

Whole Fish Baked in Sea Salt – Pesce al Sale

Serves 6

One whole fish, 5 to 6 pounds, such as snapper, rock cod, or sea bass, cleaned, gutted, and scaled
1 lemon, sliced
2 to 3 fennel fronds, cut into 3-inch pieces
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
4 pounds coarse sea salt
2 large egg whites

Extra-virgin olive oil
Lemon wedges
Sea salt flakes
Parsley Gremolata (see below)

Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 450°F (225°C)
2. Pat the fish dry with a paper towel. Place the lemon slices, fennel, and garlic in the cavity of the fish, without over-stuffing.
3. Combine the salt and egg whites in a bowl and mix well to moisten the salt. Spread 1/3 of the salt mixture on the bottom of a large baking dish. Lay the fish on top. Pour the remaining salt over the fish, covering completely. (The tail can remain exposed if needed.)
4. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until an instant read thermometer reads 135°F. (If the fish is stuffed with lemon and fennel, it may require additional cooking time, approximately 10 minutes.)
5. Remove the fish from the oven and crack the crust open with a small hammer or knife. Remove and discard the crust. Lift away the skin and fillet the fish on one side, then flip the fish and repeat on the other side.
6. Arrange the fillets on warm serving plates. Drizzle with a little extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. Sprinkle with sea salt flakes and garnish with the parsley gremolata. Serve immediately.

Parsley Gremolata:
Combine 1/2 cup finely chopped Italian parsley, 1 minced garlic clove, and the finely grated zest of one untreated lemon in a bowl.  Season to taste with a pinch of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

*This recipe was chosen as the winner in a competition hosted by Food52 and will be published in their upcoming cookbook.  You can find this recipe and many other delicious recipes on their site, and have a chance to cast your votes for favorite recipes.

Whole Fish Baked in Sea Salt

 

Easy Entertaining: Grilled Salmon and Halibut Skewers

Easy Entertaining: Grilled Salmon and Halibut Skewers

It’s mid-April, Easter vacation, and when it rains it pours – luckily and figuratively – in the houseguest department.  Who needs to go away during a school vacation, when you live in the San Francisco Bay area?  There is no shortage of beaches and nature to explore, food and wine to taste, museums and city to walk, and it can’t get any better than with the streak of brilliant weather we have had this week.  Besides, if we don’t go away, then those who do go away, come to us.

We are reaching the end of a week of playing tourist in our own backyard, hiking Pacific coastal trails, tasting Napa wine, window shopping in Union Square, and having our senses titillated in Chinatown.  My brother and his family have come and gone and return again this evening after visiting Yosemite National Park for a 3 day excursion. While they were gone, the kids have had friends sleep over, and a good friend from our Geneva days came round for a dinner – she was in town for business and we had the chance to catch up after 10 years over good wine and food.  Next week when we are back to our usual routine I will rest.

As you might imagine, the kitchen chez nous has been busy and continually re-stocked.  And for last night’s dinner I prepared these lovely fish kabobs for easy, elegant entertaining.

Grilled Salmon and Halibut Skewers
Serves 6

For the marinade:
1/4 cup (60 ml.) extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml.) freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 medium yellow onion, grated, with juices
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt

3 lbs. salmon fillet and halibut filet (thick pieces), cut in 1″ chunks
1 large red onion, cut in 1″ pieces
1 large red pepper, cut in 1″ pieces
1 large yellow pepper, cut in 1″ pieces

Italian flat leaf parsley for garnish

Soak 12 wooden skewers in hot water 30 minutes before using.

In a large bowl combine marinade ingredients.  Whisk together.  Add fish to marinade and toss gently to coat.  Refrigerate at least one hour and up to 4 hours.
Preheat grill or oven grill.
Remove skewers from water.  Thread 4-5 pieces of fish on each skewer, alternating with pepper and onion pieces.  Grill, turning, until fish is brown and just cooked through, 6-8 minutes.
Arrange on a platter, salt and pepper to taste, and garnish with parsley sprigs.

Cioppino

cioppino tf

Cioppino – [chuh-pee-noh]
noun; derived from the Italian word ciuppin

1. An Italian-American stew of fish, shellfish, tomatoes, wine and seasonings; originated in San Francisco.
2. A go-to delicious and hearty fish stew; crowd-friendly, easy in preparation and guaranteed to please friends and family.

Spicy Cioppino with Shellfish
Serves 6

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 large garlic cloves, minced
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
1 red bell pepper, seeded, cut in 1/4″ dice
1 fennel bulb, fronds removed, cut in 1/4″ dice
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 turkish bay leaf
1 1/2 cups full-bodied red wine, such as Syrah or Zinfandel/Primitivo
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes with juices
2 1/2 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons tomato paste

18 littleneck clams
6 large or 12 medium sea scallops
1 pound large shrimp, shelled, deveined, tails left intact
1/2 pound cleaned calamari with tentacles, body cut in 1/4″ thick rings
1 to 2 Dungeness crabs, cracked and broken in pieces or king crab leg, broken in 6 pieces

1/4 cup fresh Italian parsley leaves, chopped
Additional parsley sprigs for garnish

In a heavy stock pot, cook garlic, onion and red pepper flakes in olive oil over medium heat until onions soften and garlic is fragrant without browning, about 3 minutes.  Add red bell pepper, fennel, dried oregano and bay leaf.  Cook stirring, 1 minute. Add wine; bring to boil and reduce to a simmer, cooking 5 minutes.  Add tomatoes, chicken stock and tomato paste.  Simmer, covered, 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.  (Stock can be prepared up to 6 hours in advance to this point.  Cool, cover and refrigerate.  Return to a simmer before continuing.)

Add clams and crab to simmering stew.  Cook until clams open, about 5 minutes.  Remove and discard any unopened clams.  Add scallops, shrimp and calamari.  Simmer, covered, until scallops and shrimp are cooked through, about 5 minutes.  Discard bay leaf and stir in chopped parsley. Serve in warm bowls with sourdough bread.

Sunday Night Salmon Cakes

Salmon Fish Cakes

It’s not a good sign, when it’s barely mid-November and I already want a time-out. I don’t know about you but it feels as though seasonal festivities are already in full swing.  It could be that in addition to Halloween and the upcoming family holidays, every other friend and family member of mine happens to have a birthday in October or November.  After all the celebrating, and the ghoulishly sweet orientation of Halloween-past, I find myself craving savory, comfort food.  Now, to some, a fish cake may not be the first food choice to leap to mind that fits the bill, but, to me, a salty, smoky, crispy and moreish fish cake is the perfect RX to balance out too many late evenings and too many sweets.

In my eternal search for the perfect fish cake, I found that the best way to get the results I craved was to create my own recipe which had all of the right elements.  This ideal cake is packed with fish and has little filler; it’s toothsome in texture and not too mushy; it’s salty and piquant without too much sweetness; it’s bursting with fresh herbs and studded with bits of chile.  Tried-and-true, these are now a household staple, especially on a Sunday night.

Smoked Salmon Fish Cakes

Makes approx. 16 – 2″ diameter cakes

1 1/2 lb. salmon filets, skinned, pin bones removed
1/4 lb. smoked salmon
1 3/4 cup Panko bread crumbs
One small onion grated with juices, about 1/4 cup
2 scallions, ends trimmed, minced
2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
2  tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (coriander)
2 tablespoons Greek-style whole milk yogurt
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon Tabasco, to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine salmon filets and smoked salmon in bowl of food processor.  Pulse to chop without over processing.  The consistency should be finely chopped without becoming mushy.
Transfer salmon to a large bowl.  Add 1/4 cup Panko breadcrumbs, onion  with juices, scallions, parsley and cilantro.  Mix with a fork to combine.  Add yogurt, lemon juice, tabasco, pepper.  Stir to combine.

Pour remaining 1 1/2 cup Panko breadcrumbs in a shallow bowl.  Using a soup spoon scoop out a generous amount of salmon mixture.  Carefully form it into a plump 2″ patty with your hands.  Roll cake in Panko to cover.  Place on platter.  Repeat with remaining salmon.  Add more Panko to bowl if necessary.  (Patties can be formed up to 3 hours before cooking.  Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate.)

Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in skillet.  Add fish cakes in one layer.  Fry over medium-high heat until browned, turning once, about 3 minutes per side.  Use a spatter guard to prevent oil from spattering.  Transfer cakes to a plate lined with paper towel to drain.  Repeat with remaining salmon mixture.
Transfer cakes to pre-warmed serving platter.  Garnish with lemon wedges and parsley leaves.

 

Molo 13

Perhaps it’s the heat or perhaps I have the itch to travel right now. I am thinking of Italy. There are plenty of things to think about in Italy, but I am specifically thinking of a restaurant I dined at in Milan a number of years ago called Molo 13. This restaurant is one of those restaurants where if you are a tourist, if you do not have a local resident show it to you, you would never know it existed. This is the best kind of restaurant to eat in when traveling.

In my post Border Crossings, I mention a road trip to Milan, when I took with my friend, Deb, when I lived near Geneva. Aside from having a gun drawn on us by a particularly ruffled border guard at the French/Italian frontier, this was a very positive experience. As we drove on to Milan through the mountains of Aosta and Piemonte, we anticipated our arrival in the city, shopping along the Monte Napoleone, seeing the Duomo, and, of course, eating. In fact, we had a dinner scheduled for later that evening. The plan was that after checking into our hotel, we would drive to Malpensa airport where we would pick up my husband and his Italian colleague, Eugenio. They were returning from a business meeting in Rome, and Eugenio would take us to dinner at one of his favorite restaurants in Milan.

So arrived and checked in, Deb and I headed out, informed by the hotel’s concierge that signs to the airport would be clearly marked. We easily found the ring road that encircles Milan, a major motorway for commuters, that would take us to the airport some 35 km. away. As rush hour was peaking we were caught up in the whirlwind of the zooming traffic. Drivers sped past us, criss-crossing lanes from left to right and back again, taking turns tailgating each other. Crazy, dangerous, and wild were the operating adjectives at hand – it was automotive-chaos-theory at 200 km/hour. Appropriately, it was at this time that the headlights on my spiffy, sporty, somewhat older BMW failed. (There must be a football metaphor in there somewhere… Italian Exuberance:1  vs. German Reticence:0?)

In a split second we took stock of our situation: No map, no improved language skills since our brief exposure to Italian epithets at the border crossing, and now no functioning headlights, so even if we could read the road signs, we could hardly see them. At this moment, in most civilized societies this would be enough of a motive to just get off the road. But, this being Italy (very civilized, by the way, but in its own special way) there is a different principle applied to driving: it’s viewed as a sport; it’s adrenaline merging with testosterone; it’s an accumulation of many espressos. No lights? No problem!  Besides, now that we were caught up in the swirling vortex of the ring road, all physics of an easy, gentle trajectory towards a spontaneous exit went out the window. Either you plan your exit at least 5 km. in advance and preferably never leave the exit lane (very un-Italian.) Or you simply exit NOW! no matter what is in your way; things will just sort themselves out (very Italian.)

Well, we made it. (I am a schooled Boston driver, after all.) I have a memory of hurtling in the dark on the motorway and swerving sharply on 2 wheels when we saw the sign at the very last moment to the airport, cutting off several cars in our path. As I swerved again to avoid side-swiping an Alfa Romeo, I could have sworn I caught the approving nod of its Italian driver as I accelerated past him with no headlights. I was driving like a local.

So, imagine our relief when we finally arrived at our restaurant later that evening. The relief was replaced by delight as we entered Molo 13 and were overcome by the warm, lively, fully booked restaurant filled with Italians enjoying seafood specialties inspired by the Sardinian coast. We let Eugenio do the ordering and were treated to a multi-coursed feast beginning with assorted antipasti, followed by a sublime seafood risotto, and a main course of baked sea bass encrusted in sea salt. For the cheese course an enormous wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano was passed around the table, and we scooped out large chunks of the cheese with a spoon. (I still have that in mind as a cheese course for a very large dinner party.) The food was Italian at its best – uncomplicated and clean, showcasing the freshness of ingredients in their simplicity of use.

Since then, I have replicated the baked fish in sea salt recipe at home. It is a remarkably easy recipe and a beautiful way to present a whole fish. Break away the salt at the table for added effect. The fish will be succulent and flavorful, the only garnish needed is a drizzle of olive oil and fresh lemon juice.

Whole Fish Baked in Sea Salt – Pesce al Sale

Serves 4

One whole fish, about 2 lbs., such as snapper or sea bass, cleaned, scaled
Lemon slices March 2008 Salt Fish 005
1 egg white
2 pounds coarse sea salt

Extra-virgin olive oil
Lemon wedges

Preheat oven to 400 F.
Place lemon slices in cavity of the fish.
Combine egg white and sea salt in a bowl. Mix well to moisten salt.
Spread 1/3 salt mixture on bottom of an oven-proof baking dish. Lay fish on top. Pour remaining salt over fish, covering completely. If needed, tail can remain exposed.
Bake in oven 30 minutes.
Crack crust open with a small hammer or knife.  Remove and discard crust.
Fillet the fish. Serve drizzled with olive oil and lemon.