Holiday Entertaining: Salmon Gravlax

Holiday Entertaining: Salmon Gravlax

You say Christmas, and I say Gravlax. The holiday season is not complete without executing a recipe for home-cured salmon gravlax. Don’t be daunted. This is an entertainer’s dream. The salmon is easily prepared in advance and stowed in the refrigerator to cure for 2 days. All you need to do is unwrap and remove the spice cure, slice and serve. The results are the essence of Nordic cuisine: minimal and elegant. Fennel, dill and pepper fleck the meltingly soft salmon which tastes of the sea. How can you argue with that?

Gravlax (gravlaks in Danish and Norwegian or gravad lax in Swedish) literally means salmon in a grave or hole.  During the middle ages fisherman would salt salmon and let it ferment by burying it in a hole above high-tide line. Nowadays it’s not necessary to bury salmon in sand, but, rather in salt and sugar and banish it to the refrigerator.  The salmon will cure over several days, during which the salt and sugar will turn into liquid, creating a brine.

Salmon Gravlax

Serves a party.

Salt and sugar are necessary ingredients for curing, while fresh or dried herbs, peppercorns, citrus or spirits are frequently added to the brine for additional flavor. This recipe adds dill, fennel, peppercorns and akavit for flavor and spice. Choose a fish which is very fresh with a firm consistency. I use an Atlantic fish, such as Loch Duart Salmon.

One side of salmon, about 3 pounds (1.5 kg) with skin, pin bones removed
1 tablespoon white peppercorns
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
10 ounces (350 g) sea salt
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1 cup fresh dill sprigs, chopped
1 cup fennel fronds, finely chopped
1/4 cup Akavit or vodka

Lightly toast the peppercorns and fennel seeds in a dry skillet over medium-high heat until aromatic, about 1 minute. Transfer to a mortar and finely ground to a powder. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the salt and sugars. Rub the fish all over with the spices mix.

Line a long baking pan or dish with plastic wrap.  Place half of the dill sprigs and half of the fennel fronds over the plastic wrap.  Arrange the salmon, skin-side down on the herbs.  Sprinkle the Akavit over the salmon. Top with the remaining dill and fennel. Cover with additional plastic wrap, sealing the fish.  Place a heavy pan or tray on the fish. Weigh down the pan with cans or bottles.  Refrigerate for 2 to 3 days.

To serve, remove the fish from refrigerator. Remove the plastic wrap. Pour off the collected juices and wipe off excess brine and dill.  Slice diagonally from one corner of the salmon towards the center of the fillet.

Fold a slice of gravlax on toasted brioche bread or white bread.  Squeeze a few drops of fresh lemon juice and smear a spoonful of Honey Dill Mustard on the fish.  Garnish with a dill sprig.

Honey Dill Mustard

1/4 cup honey mustard
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
1/2 cup grapeseed oil
1/4 cup chopped dill sprigs
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt

Whisk the mustard and vinegar together in a small bowl.  Slowly whisk in the oil to emulsify.  Stir in the dill, pepper and salt.

Pear Plum and Blueberry Crisp with Hazelnut Streusel

Pear Plum and Blueberry Crisp with Hazelnut Streusel

Pear Crisp tf

When I have a lot of fruit lying about, I make a crisp. It’s an efficient way to use up ripe fruit, and a perfect expression of the season’s ingredients. Not only that, it’s a great way to serve dessert to a crowd. Unfussy to prepare, the assembled crisp may be refrigerated up to 3 hours before baking. For a dinner party I’ll pop it in the oven when we sit down to eat the main course. Then it’s ready and piping hot when it’s time for dessert.

Feel free to combine several fruits in a crisp. I like to mix 2-3 types of fruit, choosing for a variety of colors and textures as well as a balance between sweetness and tartness in flavor.  Pears are prominent at the farmer’s market now as well as late season plums and berries. For this crisp I combined softly sweet bosc pears with spiced plums and tart blueberries.

Pear Plum and Blueberry Crisp with Hazelnut Streusel

Serves 10-12

For the topping:
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup unsalted butter, chilled, cut in 1/2″ cubes
1/2 cup toasted, skinned and chopped hazelnuts

For the filling:
6 large Bosc pears, about 3 pounds, peeled cored, cut in 1″ chunks
6 plums, halved, each half quartered
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
zest from one lemon
1 pint blueberries

Prepare topping:
Mix flour, sugars, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt together in a medium bowl. Add butter and rub in with fingers until topping resembles coarse meal. Mix in hazelnuts. (Topping may be prepared up to one day in advance. Refrigerate until use.)

Prepare filling:
Preheat oven to 375 F. (190 C.)
Combine all of the ingredients except the blueberries in a large bowl. Toss to combine. Spread in a rectangular baking dish. Scatter blueberries over the filling. Cover the filling evenly with the topping.
Bake until bubbly and golden brown on top, about 50 minutes. Remove and serve warm or at room temperature with vanilla or cinnamon ice cream.

Caramelized Pineapple and Mango Napoleons

Mango tf
Expecting guests for dinner this weekend? In the mood for something fruity and stacked? Napoleons are fun to make and impressive to serve. They are also an elegant way to showcase the season’s fresh fruit. Don’t let the presentation intimidate you. With some planning Napoleons are also easy to prepare, since the components may be prepared in advance. All that’s required is some last minute assembly, which is fun to watch or, better yet, get your guests involved.

Caramelized Pineapple and Mango Napoleons
Makes 10

For the phyllo layers:
1 package frozen phyllo sheets, defrosted overnight in refrigerator
3/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup granulated sugar

For the filling:
2 mangoes, skin and pit removed, cut in 1/4″ dice
Juice of one lime, about 2 tablespoons
1 fresh pineapple, ends trimmed, rind removed, cut in quarters lengthwise and cored
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 cups heavy cream
2 tablespoons confectioners sugar, sifted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Shredded coconut
Runny honey for garnish

Prepare the phyllo dough:
Preheat oven to 350 F. (180 C.) Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Unroll phyllo dough. Place one sheet on work surface. (Cover remaining dough with plastic wrap and damp kitchen towel to prevent drying.)
Lightly brush phyllo sheet with butter. Sprinkle lightly with granulated sugar. Place second phyllo sheet on buttered phyllo dough. Brush with butter and sprinkle with sugar. Repeat with 2 more sheets.
With a sharp chef’s knife cut stacked phyllo sheets in half lengthwise. Cut each half into 5 equal width rectangles. (5 across the sheets’ long side x 2 across the short side). With a spatula, transfer the squares to prepared baking sheets. Bake in oven until golden, about 8 minutes. Remove from oven and cool completely on racks.
Repeat this process 2 more times, so you will have a total of 30 rectangles. (Phyllo squares may be prepared one day in advance. Store in an airtight container at room temperature. Separate layers of phyllo dough with parchment paper.)

Prepare the filling:
Toss the diced mango with the lime juice in a bowl and set aside.
Cut each pineapple quarter in slices 1/4″ thick. Arrange slices in one layer in 2 skillets. Sprinkle brown sugar over pineapple. Cook over medium heat, turning pineapple, until caramelized. Transfer pineapple to a plate to cool completely.
Beat cream in bowl of electric mixer until traces from the whisk are visible in the cream. Add confectioners sugar and vanilla. Continue to beat until soft peaks form.

Assemble the napoleons:
Arrange 12 phyllo sheets on individual dessert plates or platter. Spread each sheet with one tablespoon whipped cream. Gently press diced mango into whipped cream in one layer. Top with a little more whipped cream (this will help the phyllo layers to stay put) and sprinkle with coconut. Top cream and mango with a second phyllo layer and repeat process with mango, whipped cream and coconut. Top with a third phyllo sheet. Spoon cream over the top. Gently lay 1-2 pineapple slices on the cream. Drizzle with honey. Sprinkle with coconut. Serve immediately.

My Big Fat Greek Dinner: Grilled Spiced Lamb Kefta Skewers

My Big Fat Greek Dinner: Grilled Spiced Lamb Kefta Skewers


Greek Plate

Labor Day is fast approaching and what better way to close out the summer than with a Greek inspired grill party? These Spiced Lamb Kefta Skewers are perfect for the barbeque. Their spice and heat stand up well to the char from the grill, especially when accompanied by a fiery Harissa and a creamy Tsatsiki as condiments. Round out the menu with a Fattoush Salad and Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Mint. By the end of the meal your tastebuds will be singing, and your guests will be begging for more. What else could you ask for? Oh, yes – a nice wine and perhaps a little Ouzo.

Grilled Spiced Lamb Kefta Skewers
Makes 16

16 (8 inch) bamboo skewers

2 pounds ground lamb
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped, about 1 cup
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste
Exta-virgin olive oil for brushing
Pita bread

Pre-soak bamboo skewers in warm water 30 minutes before assembling kebabs.
Combine the lamb, herbs and spices in a bowl; mix well. Gather a small handful of the meat in your hand and form it lengthwise around a skewer so that the meat is covering 2/3 of the skewer. Place on plate or tray. Repeat with remaining meat and skewers. Lightly brush the kebabs with olive oil.  (Kebabs may be prepared to this point up to 6 hours in advance. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.  Remove from refrigerator 30 minutes before grilling.)
Prepare grill for medium-high heat. Grill directly over heat, turning to brown on all sides, until cooked through, about 8 minutes.  Serve with pita bread, tsatsiki and harissa.

More Easy Holiday Party Food: Smoked Salmon Tartare

SmokedSalmonTartare

Smoked salmon tartare is another easy holiday recipe for entertaining.  Finely diced smoked salmon is tumbled with rich crème fraîche and moistened with fresh citrus juice.  Red onion adds sweetness and crunch while chopped dill and chives brighten and freshen the tartare.  If you are feeling extra-fancy, garnish the tartare with salmon roe and serve with champagne, and watch how this easy appetizer morphs into an elegant black-tie hors-d’oeuvre.

Smoked Salmon Tartare

Try to resist the urge to use a food processor for the salmon. The salmon should be small individual pieces rather than a puréed mixture.

Makes about 2 cups

1 pound smoked salmon
2 tablespoons finely minced red onion
1-2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1-2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon crème fraîche or sour cream
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill sprigs
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chive ends
Baguette slices
Endive leaves
Fresh dill

Finely chop the smoked salmon in 1/8 inch dice and transfer to a medium-sized bowl.  Add red onion, lemon and lime juice, lemon zest and black pepper. Fold in crème fraîche. (The tartare should be moist, but not soupy.)
Tartare may be made up to 8 hours in advance to this point.  Cover and refrigerate.
Before serving, gently stir in chopped dill and chives.
Serve tartare with baguette slices or endive leaves.  Garnish with snipped dill sprigs.

Easy Holiday Party Food: Smoked Trout Mousse Canapées

Easy Holiday Party Food: Smoked Trout Mousse Canapées

smoked trout plate tastefood

This is another figurative little black dress in the holiday recipe department. Smoked trout mousse canapées are the perfect addition to your repertoire of go-to recipes for easy entertaining.  They are effortless to make, delcious to eat and elegant to serve.  The results are addictively good:  Salty, smoky trout lightened with cream cheese and brightened with fresh lemon juice. Toasted almonds and fresh dill add final crunchy freshness and tip these hors d’oervres into the sublime category. Just like a little black dress, this recipe is classic, popular and unfailingly dependable during the festive party season.

Smoked Trout Mousse

The ingredients keep well in the refrigerator, so they can be purchased in advance and kept on hand for an upcoming party dish or unexpected holiday visitors.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

8 ounces (250 g.) smoked trout (or bluefish), skin and any bones removed
4 ounces (125 g. ) cream cheese, room temperature
1 small onion, grated with juices
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Dash of Tabasco

1/4 cup coarsely chopped toasted almonds
thinly sliced pumpernickel squares or sliced baguette

Garnish:
Dill sprigs
Fresh lemon slices, quartered

Combine all the ingredients except the almonds in bowl of food processor.  Process until consistency is light and smooth. (If too thick, add additional lemon juice.) Transfer to serving bowl.  Sprinkle with toasted almonds.  Serve with thinly sliced pumpernickel squares or sliced baguette.  Garnish with additional almonds, lemon slice and dill sprigs.

Healthy BBQ’s for Labor Day

Healthy BBQ’s for Labor Day

OK, so it’s not Julie and Julia,  but I am still very excited to share with you a video I made, courtesy of BlogHer’s The Juice with Jory Des Jardins.  In honor of the approaching Labor Day Weekend, Jory asked me to share some healthy tips for grilling.  Healthy grilling?  You bet!

Grilling is a subject I am passionate about.  Grilling makes almost anything taste great, it gets you cooking outdoors, and it’s very social and interactive.  During the summer, it’s the cooking method of choice, keeping the heat out of the kitchen, and putting the bounty of summer on the grill.  That’s right – those fruits and vegetables ripe in the garden and piled high in the markets at this time of the year?  They taste great on the grill, and they are healthy to eat.

Grilled vegetables can be tossed in salads, salsas or side dishes. Grilled Ratatouille takes the traditional summer veggie stew and elevates it with a charred smoky flavor for a delightful grilled salad. Or grill just one component of the salad or dish to add a crisp and smoky bite.  Fattoush Salad includes grilled pita bread, which adds a distinctive toasted flavor and crunchy texture.

If you want to wow your guests, yet still keep it easy, make Grilled Eggplant and Heirloom Tomato Sandwiches with Goat Cheese and Tomato Coulis. The eggplant is the star of the show and adds a creamy, charred flavor to the “sandwiches.”

As for grilling fruit, many types of fruit grill well.  Remember that grilling fruit is not about cooking but flavoring.  The heat of the grill caramelizes the natural sugars of the fruit, enhancing their flavor, leaving you wondering how anything can taste so sweet, so delicious and be so healthy, as with Grilled Nectarines and Apricots with Honey and Thyme.

And what about meat?  Grilling doesn’t just mean burgers, dogs and heavily sauced meat cuts (as much as we love them!)  Go with leaner pork and chicken.  Instead of sweet, sticky sauces, try a dry rub on Barbecued Pork Spareribs or smoke roasting a salted, whole chicken for savory, spicy, succulent results. Fish is another healthy winner on the grill.  Keep it light and simple with a Lemon-Dijon marinade for Grilled Halibut and Salmon Skewers.

The bottom line? Grilling is delicious and inspiring.  It’s communal and primitive, perfect for entertaining and enjoying the outdoors.  You can keep it down, dirty and simple, with paper plates and beer, or all dressed up with a decorated picnic table, cut flowers and posh cocktails.  The important thing is to have fun, invite friends and enjoy fresh, seasonal food when you fire up that BBQ this Labor Day!

Gløgg Season

Glogg tf

One of the best things about the month of December is that it’s the beginning of gløgg season.  Gløgg is the Scandinavian version of spiced mulled wine, also known as vin chaud in France and glühwein in German.  Picture Tyrolean chalets, horse-drawn sleighs, Christmas markets and lots of snow.  Then picture the end of a day skiing, or after walking in the forest collecting holly and branches.  Then imagine a roaring fire, food simmering and a glass of gløgg in hand.  Now you might understand why every year I look forward to gløgg season.

Gløgg

There are many pre-made mixes for gløgg, but the best way to make it is from scratch. It’s easy to do and requires an inexpensive dry red wine.  When you make the gløgg, the aroma of simmering spices and wine will fill your home with winter cheer.

For the garnish:
1 cup raisins
1/3 cup Cointreau or rum
1/2 cup whole almonds

For the gløgg:
1 1/2 cups Port wine
1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1/2 cup Cointreau or Gran Marnier
1/3 cup brown sugar
zest of 2 oranges, cut in strips
10 cloves
2 cinnamon sticks
2 bottles dry red wine

Fresh orange slices

Prepare the garnish:
Combine the raisins and Cointreau in a small bowl. Let sit at room temperature for at least 2 hours. (Raisins may be prepared up to one week in advance.  Cover and refrigerate until use.)
Toast the almonds in a dry skillet on the stove. Remove from heat and coarsely chop in large pieces.

Prepare the gløgg:
Combine all the ingredients except the 2 bottles of red wine in a heavy large pot with a lid, . Bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook uncovered until reduced to 2 cups, 12-15 minutes.
Add red wine and warm over low heat with the lid on the pot. Do not boil.
Add a spoonful each of raisins and almonds to a glass or mug.  Strain gløgg into glass.  Garnish with fresh orange slices.