Condiment Spotlight: Homemade Harissa

Condiment Spotlight: Homemade Harissa

Harissa

If you are looking for a condiment that multi-tasks while tasting stand-alone delicious, then look no further. I have been making this variation of harissa for years, and it’s positively addicting.

Harissa is a red pepper sauce traditionally found in North African cuisine. Used as a condiment in Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco, harissa is a paste of hot red peppers combined with other ingredients which vary from home to home and by region. In this version, serrano or red jalapeno chiles are blended with roasted red bell peppers which add smoky sweetness to the fiery chiles.

The beauty of harissa is its versatility. It may be used as a garnish, marinade or dip. Stir it into soups and stews or mix it with couscous and rice. Serve it as an appetizer with veggies for dipping or bread for mopping. It elevates anything it garnishes and is guaranteed to fire up your tastebuds.

Harissa

The consistency of this harissa will resemble a salsa. Makes about  1 1/2 cups.

2 large red bell peppers
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds
2-3 small red serrano or red jalapano chiles, stemmed, minced with seeds
3 garlic cloves
1-2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Fresh coriander and/or mint leaves

Roast the peppers:
If using grill, prepare grill for high heat. Place peppers directly over heat and grill, turning, until evenly charred. Transfer to a plate and cool completely. Peel away skin. Remove the stem, seeds and ribs from the peppers; coarsely chop.
If using oven, preheat broiler. Halve peppers. Discard stems, seeds and ribs. Place skin-side up in one layer on baking tray. Broil until skin is charred. Remove from oven and cool completely. Remove skin. Coarsely chop peppers.

Prepare harissa:
Toast cumin seeds, coriander seeds, and caraway seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until aromatic, about one minute. Transfer to a mortar with pestle or spice grinder. Grind seeds to a fine powder.
Combine ground seeds, chopped red peppers, chiles, garlic and 1 tablespoon olive oil in bowl of food processor. Process until smooth, adding more olive oil, if necessary, to desired consistency. Add salt and pepper. Let sit at least one hour and up to 24 hours before serving. (Refrigerate before use.)
Serve garnished with coriander or mint leaves.

Dry Spice Rubbed Baby Back Pork Ribs

Dry Spice Rubbed Baby Back Pork Ribs

Spice rub tf

It’s Labor Day weekend, and we are firing up the grill. A small crowd is expected to join us for dinner, and baby back pork ribs are on the menu. Now, there are all sorts of BBQ preparations, ranging from the restraint of a piece of steak to the elegance of a whole fish, or the finesse of, say, a pizza. None of this applies. Today we are getting down and dirty. I have 4 racks of baby back ribs ready to be smeared with a dry spice rub, slow cooked in the oven and then finished on the grill to crispen and darken the meat. This is Fred Flintstone material: white shirts, silverware and cloth napkins need not apply. We can’t wait.

The key to making these ribs is in the method. I begin with a dry rub which coats and permeates the meat with a sweet, spicy, smoky flavor as they cook long and slow in a low-heat oven. Thirty minutes before serving, the ribs are transferred to the BBQ where they grill over a low fire long enough to crispen and darken in color. The combination of the dry spice and the natural succulence of the meat is a perfect balance. However, if you like your ribs a bit more “wet”, either baste them right at the end when removing from the grill or serve with a sauce on the side for dipping.

Ribs bbq tf

Dry Spice Rubbed Baby Back Pork Ribs
Serves 6-8

For the rub:
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 tablespoons ground cumin
1 tablespoon cayenne (or to taste)

3 racks baby back pork ribs

Preheat oven to 200 F. (100 C.) Combine all of the rub ingredients together in a bowl and mix well.
Pat ribs dry with a paper towel. Arrange in one layer on 2 baking sheets. Rub the spices all over the ribs on both sides, coating well. Bake in oven for 3 hours.
Prepare grill for indirect medium-low heat. Grill ribs on a rack over indirect heat, turning, until the meat darkens and crispens, 10-12 minutes.
If using a sauce, baste ribs just before removing from grill. Serve with optional sauce on the side.

My Big Fat Greek Dinner: Grilled Spiced Lamb Kefta Skewers

My Big Fat Greek Dinner: Grilled Spiced Lamb Kefta Skewers


Greek Plate

Labor Day is fast approaching and what better way to close out the summer than with a Greek inspired grill party? These Spiced Lamb Kefta Skewers are perfect for the barbeque. Their spice and heat stand up well to the char from the grill, especially when accompanied by a fiery Harissa and a creamy Tsatsiki as condiments. Round out the menu with a Fattoush Salad and Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Mint. By the end of the meal your tastebuds will be singing, and your guests will be begging for more. What else could you ask for? Oh, yes – a nice wine and perhaps a little Ouzo.

Grilled Spiced Lamb Kefta Skewers
Makes 16

16 (8 inch) bamboo skewers

2 pounds ground lamb
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped, about 1 cup
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste
Exta-virgin olive oil for brushing
Pita bread

Pre-soak bamboo skewers in warm water 30 minutes before assembling kebabs.
Combine the lamb, herbs and spices in a bowl; mix well. Gather a small handful of the meat in your hand and form it lengthwise around a skewer so that the meat is covering 2/3 of the skewer. Place on plate or tray. Repeat with remaining meat and skewers. Lightly brush the kebabs with olive oil.  (Kebabs may be prepared to this point up to 6 hours in advance. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.  Remove from refrigerator 30 minutes before grilling.)
Prepare grill for medium-high heat. Grill directly over heat, turning to brown on all sides, until cooked through, about 8 minutes.  Serve with pita bread, tsatsiki and harissa.

Seared Sea Scallops with Gingered Pea Purée and Lemon Cilantro Gremolata

Scallop Gremolata tf

Sometimes, it’s all in the accessories. I first made this recipe a year ago when I was experimenting with cilantro in a gremolata and decided to combine it with seared scallops. The scallops were served with a simple spring pea purée and garnished with the gremolata. The dish was beautiful to look at, and the peas exuded a soft sweetness that married well with the briny scallop. Since then, it has been a favorite go-to recipe for special occasions – the figurative little black dress in my cooking repertoire.

But, like any wardrobe, recipes can stand a tweak from time to time. Maybe it was my mood or maybe it was the dreary weather, but when I made this recipe the other day, I craved a little extra zing. So, I made a few additions to the pea purée: fresh ginger and a pinch of cayenne. The result was delightful. The extra touches bolstered the flavor of the purée, distinguishing it from the sweet scallops while complementing the assertive lemon cilantro gremolata. Like a special scarf to the figurative little black dress, these culinary accessories were the flourishes I needed to make this recipe sparkle.

Seared Sea Scallops with Gingered Pea Purée and Lemon Cilantro Gremolata
Serves 4 as a main course, 8 as an appetizer

For the Cilantro Gremolata:
1 cup cilantro leaves, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Pea Purée:
2 cups shelled English peas
salt
1 large garlic clove
1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
freshly ground black pepper
pinch cayenne

16 large sea scallops, about 1 1/2 pounds
extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Prepare the Gremolata:
Combine the cilantro, garlic, lemon zest, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Mix together and set aside.

Prepare the Pea Purée:
Bring 4 cups water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add 2 teaspoons salt and the peas. Cook until peas are tender. Remove from heat and drain peas, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid.
Combine peas, garlic, ginger, olive oil, lemon juice, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon black pepper and cayenne in bowl of food processor. Purée until smooth. Add some of the reserved water (approximately 1/4 cup) to thin to desired consistency; the purée should not be too thin. Discard remaining water. Transfer purée to a bowl and keep warm.

Prepare scallops:
Pat scallops dry and sprinkle all over with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in skillet over medium-high heat. Add half of the scallops, taking care not to overcrowd the pan. Cook, turning once, until brown on both sides and just cooked through, about 4 minutes. Transfer to plate and keep warm. Repeat with remaining scallops.

To assemble, spoon pea purée on serving plates. Top with scallops. Sprinkle scallops and purée with gremolata. Drizzle lightly with extra-virgin olive oil. Serve immediately.

Lemon Curd and a Lemony Recipe Roundup

When life hands you a crate of lemons what do you make? I reflected on this question recently, since I was handed a crate with 100 lemons. They were leftovers from a middle school outing in which I participated as a kitchen assistant. Aside from spending time with my daughter and her class in beautiful Mendocino, this crate of lemons was a highlight of the trip. For me, 100 lemons are far more than leftovers – they are a gift.

The first recipe I tackled was Lemon Curd, one of my favorite food products. Lemon Curd is delicious as a garnish with fruit, meringues, cakes and breads. It keeps in the refrigerator for up to two weeks, and also freezes beautifully. I like to make my curd especially lemony, and manage to slip in an entire cup of freshly squeezed juice, as well as a heaping tablespoon of zest. I prefer to keep the sugar content on the conservative side so that the citrus can sparkle.

6 lemons down, 94 to go.

Curd

Lemon Curd
Makes about 2 cups

8 large egg yolks, whites reserved for another use
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest

Combine egg yolks and sugar in a heavy noncorrodible saucepan and whisk together. Add sugar, lemon juice, butter and salt. Heat over medium-low heat, stirring constantly. As the butter melts continue stirring until the curd begins to thicken. Do not let the curd boil; if it begins to give off steam, briefly remove pan from heat, stirring constantly. Once the curd thickly coats the back of a wooden spoon, strain the curd through a fine-meshed sieve into a bowl and cool. The curd may be refrigerated up to two weeks, or frozen up to 2 months.

Black Bean, Corn and Red Pepper Salsa

Black Bean Salsa tf

Here is one easy way to jazz up your dinner plate. Black Bean, Corn and Red Pepper Salsa is spicy, bright and colorful. It’s delicious as an appetizer with tortilla chips, as a salad or an accompaniment to grilled fish, meat or chicken. Like any good salsa this one combines a variety of textures and tastes, balancing sweetness with spice and acidity. And, like all good salsas, there is no one way to make it. Take advantage of the vegetables and fruits you have on hand, selecting for a variety of colors and textures, and a balance of sweet and savory components.

Black Bean, Corn and Red Pepper Salsa

For the best texture, cut the ingredients in uniform pieces, as much as possible. Makes about 4 cups

1 1/2 cups cooked black beans, or 1- 16 oz. can black beans, drained
1 cup frozen corn, thawed, or uncooked corn from the cob
1 small red pepper, stemmed, seeded, diced
1 jalapeno pepper, stemmed and seeded, minced
4 green onions, trimmed, white and green parts finely sliced
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste
1/2 cup chopped cilantro sprigs

Combine all the ingredients except the cilantro in a bowl. Toss to combine. Taste to adjust seasoning. Cover and refrigerate one hour or up to 4 hours. Before serving, add cilantro and toss to combine. Serve as a salad or accompaniment to grilled fish, chicken, meat.

My Mortar and Pestle and a Guacamole Recipe

My Mortar and Pestle and a Guacamole Recipe

Mortar and Pestle

My favorite kitchen tool is a stone mortar and pestle. It sits proudly on my kitchen counter, holding its own in a caveman-esque sort of way, flaunting its primal elegance in between the commercial stove and espresso machine.  It’s smugly confident in its weight and kitchen hierarchy (deemed decorative) while my food processor and standing mixer are banished behind cabinet doors (deemed clutter.)   New kitchen techniques are awe-inspiring and futuristic, yet my mortar is old and wise with a lineage extending as far back as the Old Testament.  Evaporators, anti-griddles, gastro-vacs may be cutting edge, favored by professional chefs and avant-garde molecular gastronomy experts, but my mortar has a stellar history as an essential tool to Native Americans, ancient Romans and Greeks, medieval pharmacists and home cooks spanning the ages from the dawn of civilization.  It is the embodiment of simplicity and timelessness, pleasingly tactile and massively elemental.  And it’s affordable.

What can you do with a mortar and pestle?  You can grind, pound and smash to your heart’s content, making pestos, pastes, sauces, dips, dressings and marinades.  You can grind seeds into powder.  (I assure you the results of lightly toasting cardamon, cumin or coriander seeds and then grinding them to a fine powder in a mortar will yield results unparalleled by the pre-ground versions.)  The mortar is also the perfect place to smash garlic with sea salt, adding fresh cut herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage, basil, mint. Crush the garlic first with the salt, then add the herbs and bruise them by giving them a few turns with the pestle to release their juices and flavor.  You will be left with a powerful, aromatic paste you can smear on meats and poultry before roasting.

Mortar 001 Mortar 006

You can also create a complete dish and serve it in the mortar. Try making guacamole. Serve with chips, and you have one-stop-shopping in a primitive vessel.

Guacamole Ingredients Guacamole

Guacamole

If you don’t have a mortar, then simply combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and mash with a fork to achieve a chunky consistency. Makes about 2 cups.

1 red or green jalapeño pepper, stemmed and seeded, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
1/4 cup cilantro leaves
3 large ripe hass avocados
2 tablespoons coarsely grated yellow onion with juice
Juice of one lime
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon hot sauce, such as Tabasco

Prepare:
Combine the jalapeño, garlic, and red onion in a mortar. Press on the ingredients with your pestle, and grind them around the mortar in a circular movement, 3 to 4 times.  Add the cilantro and gently bruise the leaves with the pestle. Add the avocados, yellow onion, and lime juice and mash to form a blended but chunky consistency. Stir in the cumin, salt, black pepper, and hot sauce and taste for seasoning.

Harissa

Harissa

It’s the little things that can sometimes make a big difference.  Harissa is one of my favorite “little” condiments that features on our table, especially during grill season.  Until now, I have only referred to it as a link in other recipes, but it’s high time that harissa gets its own post.

Harissa is a Middle Eastern condiment that is a blend of roasted peppers, chiles, garlic and ground spices.  Savory, sweet, and hot, it adds a fresh and fiery component to grilled meat, fish, and chicken.  Mix it in with rice dishes and tabbouleh, soups and dips, or simply eat it with a spoon.  It elevates anything it garnishes and is guaranteed to fire up your tastebuds.

Harissa
Makes about 2 cups

1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds
2 red bell peppers, roasted, peeled and seeded, coarsely chopped
2-3 small red serrano chiles, stemmed, minced with seeds
3 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Fresh coriander and/or mint leaves

Toast cumin seeds, coriander seeds, and caraway seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until aromatic, about one minute. Transfer to a mortar with pestle.  Grind seeds to a fine powder.
Combine ground seeds, red peppers, chiles, garlic and olive oil in bowl of food processor.  Process until smooth, adding more olive oil, if necessary, to desired consistency.  Add sea salt and pepper to taste.
Let sit at least one hour and up to 24 hours before serving.  (Refrigerate before use.)
Serve garnished with coriander or mint leaves.

Tip:  Adjust the heat to your taste by omitting or adding the seeds and membrane of the chiles.  Remember that there should be some heat to Harissa.