June 2009 – TasteFood

Gazpacho – a Hot Weather Friend

June 27, 2009July 30, 2014by Lynda Balslev3 Comments

Oh my, it is hot. How hot? Well, I have been told it will reach 100 F. today (38C!) I am positive that right now my kitchen is pushing 125 F. Now, for those of you who do not know me, I am not a hot-weather person. My idea of a dream existence is to own a lovely stone house in the south of France and live there year-round except in the summer, when I would head north. I don’t even mind rain from time to time. It’s the reverse of the natural order of things, I know, but my DNA is just not programmed to sustain the heat. I have come to expect the usual summer hot spells, but lately I have been lulled into ignorant bliss by a long stretch of clear, cool, breezy autumn-like weather. I’ve been smiling ear to ear like a fleece-clad cheshire cat, enjoying wind blown hikes with rosy cheeks and watering eyes, while back home, I read sympathetically about the heat in further-flung-regions.

So, just when I begin to believe that this will be the summer norm, I find myself facing triple digit temperatures. I suspiciously wonder if the high heat has been lurking and gleefully rubbing it’s sweaty hands all along, plotting and waiting to pounce as soon as I let my guard down. Well I can roll with the punches. I am now unpacking my small hot weather clothing that I have just packed for a trip to a hot futher-flung-region. I am hiking only at the crack of dawn, and any water related locales have become the preferred destination. And, for sure, the oven is off limits in the house, while all food I prepare comes from my repertoire of recipes that I turn to in extreme heat.

One such recipe is my version of gazpacho, a puréed tomato-based soup from Spain, served cold. I call it a liquid salad, because, if you glance at the ingredients, that is very much what it is. My version involves no puréeing, because I love the toothsome texture of the diced vegetables, fresh and satisfying to the bite. Their colors mingle with their natural juices in a cool, thirst-quenching soup of tomato, making this a festive and refreshing dish to present – one of the few un-wilted looking items in my kitchen at the moment. The selection of vegetables can be varied. I stray from the conventional gazpacho and add carrot for its color and sweetness and fennel bulb for its anise flavor and crunch. This is a perfect liquid salad for a hot summer day.

Gazpacho
Serves 4-6

1 quart or 1 liter tomato juice
1 organic cucumber with skin, seeded, diced
1 large red onion, finely chopped
3 tomatoes, diced, with juices
1 carrot, peeled, finely diced
1 fennel bulb, fronds and outer pieces removed, finely diced
1 red or yellow bell pepper, seeded, ribs removed, diced
1 jalapeno pepper, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Juice of one lemon and one lime
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Dash of tabasco sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 generous handful fresh cilantro/coriander chopped

Combine all of the ingredients except cilantro in a large bowl. Adjust seasoning to taste. Cover and chill at least one hour before serving. (Can be made up to 6 hours in advance.) Stir in cilantro before serving. Garnish with cilantro or parsley leaves.

Serving suggestions: Top gazpacho with diced avocado and serve with tortilla chips.

Appetizers, Italy, Vegetables and Salads, Vegetarian

Grilled Eggplant and Heirloom Tomato Stacks with Basil and Tomato Coulis

June 23, 2009July 30, 2014by Lynda Balslev9 Comments

Eggplants love the grill, and I love to grill eggplants – or aubergines as they are so elegantly referred to in other countries. Eggplants comes in many sizes and shapes, while the most common variety is the plump, pear-shaped and, well, aubergine colored vegetable found year round in our markets.

When it comes to the barbecue the versatile, yet subtle, eggplant is the workhorse of grilled vegetables. Its mellow, buttery flavor and firm texture lends well to the barbecue, as it hold its shape during grilling and serves as a perfect vehicle for spicy, smoky, flamboyant flavors. Eggplants may be simply prepared with olive oil, salt and pepper and served in stand-alone fashion – or tossed with a medley of Provençal-style vegetables as a grilled accompaniment to meat and fish. Cut in planks, and use as a vessel for a dollop of creamy tsatsiki for an easy crowd-friendly appetizer – or stack grilled slices with tomato, basil and goat cheese for an impressive beginning to a dinner.

This recipe is easy to prepare, delicious and fresh to eat. The smoky eggplant combines beautifully with cool garlicky goat cheese, juicy sweet tomatoes and crisp fresh basil leaves. Serve as an elegant appetizer or on a bed of arugula for a dramatic salad.

Grilled Eggplant and Heirloom Tomato Stacks with Basil and Tomato Coulis

Makes 8 stacks

1 to 2 narrow, firm eggplants, sliced horizontally 1/4-inch thick to yield 16 slices
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups soft goat cheese
1 garlic clove, minced
2 large heirloom tomatoes, sliced horizontally 1/4-inch thick to yield 8 slices
16 large basil leaves
1/4 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1 cup tomato coulis (see below)

Prepare Eggplant:
Preheat oven broiler or prepare grill. Lightly brush eggplant slices on both sides with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrrange on baking tray and broil in oven, turning once, until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. (Or grill over direct medium heat until charred and tender, turning once, 6 to 8 minutes). Transfer to plate to cool.

Arrange Stacks:
Whisk goat cheese, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper in a small bowl.
Arrange 1/2 of the eggplant slices on a platter. Spoon 1 to 2 teaspoons goat cheese over the eggplant, then top with 1 basil leaf. Place a tomato slice over the basil and spread 1 to 2 teaspoons goat cheese over the tomato. Place a second eggplant slice over the goat cheese. Top with one teaspoon goat cheese and basil leaf. Lightly drizzle 2 to 3 teaspoons Tomato Coulis over and around the eggplant stack. Garnish with one teaspoon grated Pecorino Romano cheese. Serve immediately.

Tomato Coulis:
Makes about 1 cup

1 pound ripe plum tomatoes, peeled and seeded (see below), coarsely chopped
1 small garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine tomatoes, garlic and olive oil in bowl of food processor. Process until smooth. Add salt and pepper. Let stand at room temperature for one hour before serving. (Coulis may be made one day in advance. Cover and refrigerate). Serve at room temperature.

Cooking Class – How to Peel and Seed a Tomato:

1. Take a paring knife and cut out the stem: Make shallow incisions around the stem and scoop out the stem.
2. With same knife, make a shallow X-incision in bottom of tomato.
3. Bring a saucepan of water to a rolling boil. Plunge tomato into water for 10 seconds. Remove and submerge in a bowl of ice water.
4. Remove the cooled tomato from the water. Peel away skin.
5. To seed the tomato, cut the tomato in half. Use your fingers to scoop out seeds.

Uncategorized

Summer Solstice Danish-Style

June 20, 2009July 30, 2014by Lynda Balslev

Denmark is the land of the (nearly) midnight sun. The sun sets just before 11:00 in the evening, only to begin its ascent again in the wee hours of the morning. In a land where the winters are long and very dark, it is no wonder that celebrations, and even a God or two, have been delegated to give thanks and perhaps curry favor with the fiery powers that be. Summer Solstice, or Sankt Hans Aften (which means the eve of St. John the Baptist Day), is the height of these jubilations, as it celebrates the longest day of the year. Bonfires are lit, and food and drink are plentiful, as the Vikings of yesteryear, and in spirit, party and feast until dawn.

This year we will attempt our own celebration on a nearby beach. We will light a bonfire and have a picnic dinner as the sun sets. It is likely that we will forego the authentic tradition of burning an effigy over the fire, as that may not go over too well with the local residents and could quite possibly get us arrested. (Proper solstice tradition would have a straw witch burned over the fire. This symbolizes the riddance of problems, worries, and threats from people’s lives.)

Food typically associated with the solstice celebration is simple picnic fare: grilled fish or meat, fresh boiled local crayfish (which can be a party unto itself) and remoulade sauce, potato salad, green salad and a dessert featuring summer strawberries. All of this would be accompanied, Viking-style, by beer, snaps and wine throughout the evening.

Copenhagen, Denmark, Restaurants: Copenhagen, Travel

Summer Solstice NOMA-Style

June 17, 2009July 30, 2014by Lynda Balslev3 Comments

Last summer we were in Denmark visiting friends and family during the summer solstice. Miraculously, we managed to get a coveted dinner reservation at the acclaimed Copenhagen restaurant NOMA, and realized that our luck was only due to the general population out partying in traditional solstice-style on beaches before bonfires rather than in restaurants. Seizing our opportunity, we invited our Danish friends and hosts (who were more than happy to abandon tradition for a table at NOMA) to join us.

That evening, we dined on a fabulous prix-fixe menu consisting of 7 courses composed exclusively of ingredients hailing from Nordic countries. (NOMA is an acronym for Nordisk Mad – or Nordic Food in Danish.) A visit to this restaurant is highly recommended if you are in Copenhagen, although advance reservations are a must. It is a fantastic collaboration between Danish chefs Claus Meyer and René Redzepi. All ingredients originate from Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Iceland, Greenland and the Faroe Islands. They run from the familiar to the exotic: eel, musk ox, green strawberries, hare, seaweed, rye bread, black lobster are a few examples (quite out of context.) You may feast on dishes such as Sautéed Dover Sole with New Danish Potatoes, Green Strawberries and Elderberry Sauce perhaps accompanied by Stirred Mashed Potatoes with Lumpfish Roe and Crispy Chicken Skin, and finish with Caramel Ice Cream with Icelandic Buttermilk, Dried Swedish Berries and Sorrel Crème Anglaise.

I enjoy poring over the NOMA Nordic Cuisine cookbook, which I bought as a memento after our meal. It is an inspirational and unique testament to Nordic terroir, and apropos several interesting blogs that attempt to prepare every single recipe in a particular tome of a cookbook, I would seriously have a go at reproducing NOMA’s – if only I could get my hands on chickweed, seakale and sweet cicely. For now, I do what I always do and improvise with the seasonal and local products I find in my part of the world.

As we drove home after our long dinner, it was approaching midnight. To the west the sun had just set and exited the sky in a swirl of orange and purple flourishes in its haste to rise again. To the east it was doing just that, where the sky was brightening and soft pink tinges nudged the gray-blue midnight summer sky. It was truly a magical Danish solstice moment.

Appetizers, Vegetables and Salads, Vegetarian

Fattoush Salad

June 14, 2009July 30, 2014by Lynda Balslev2 Comments

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Fattoush is a Middle Eastern salad made with fresh garden vegetables and toasted bread. It’s similar in concept to the Italian bread salad, panzanella, a traditional rustic recipe using day-old bread tossed with salad and “refreshed” with dressing. Fattoush has a significant Middle Eastern influence, with the addition of sumac which gives the salad its characteristically sour flavor, as well as feta cheese, kalamata olives, parsley, coriander, and mint.

Fattoush Salad

Toasted pita bread adds an addictive crunch to this salad. When the grill is going, I like to grill the pita for extra flavor. Serves 4-6 as a light main course or 6-8 side salads.

For the vinaigrette:
1 small garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon dried cumin seed
1/4 teaspoon dried sumac
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

For the salad:
2 large pita breads
2 cups arugula leaves
1 head romaine lettuce, washed
1 small bunch (about 1/2 cup) Italian parlsey leaves
1 small bunch (about 1/2 cup) fresh cilantro/coriander leaves
1 small bunch (about 1/2 cup) fresh mint leaves
1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved lengthwise
1/2 English cucumber, quartered lengthwise, thinly sliced
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1 cup kalamata olives
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese, plus extra for garnish

Prepare the vinaigrette:
Mix all of the ingredients, except the olive oil, together in a small bowl. Whisk in olive oil in a steady stream until emulsified.

Prepare salad:
Preheat oven broiler. Brush pita bread with olive oil. Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper. Cut each pita circle in 6 triangles. Toast in oven, turning once, until crispy and golden. Remove from heat and cool. Break into pieces.
Toss two-thirds of the pita with the arugula, romaine, parsley, cilantro and mint in a large bowl. Scatter the tomatoes, cucumber, onion, olives and feta over the salad. Drizzle with half of the dressing and toss to combine. Add additional vinaigrette to taste. Serve garnished with extra feta.

Greece, Kitchen Table Philosophy, Main Course, Meat, Vegetables and Salads, Wine and food pairings

My Big Fat Greek Dinner

June 8, 2009August 30, 2019by Lynda Balslev2 Comments

When it’s hot outside, the food I crave is Greek. These Greek-inspired lamb kebabs are packed with herbs, spices and the heat of cayenne. They are positively addictive and perfect for a party and easy entertaining. Nearly everything can be prepared in advance, and a barbeque is required. What more could you ask for? Oh, yes: Good friends, great wine and perhaps a little Ouzo.

To complete the menu, serve these spicy, more-ish kebabs with smoky, Middle-Eastern harissa and creamy, garlicky tsatsiki. Accompany with a greek salad brimming with garden fresh vegetables, feta cheese and kalamata olives and roasted potatoes. By the end of the meal your tastebuds will be singing, and your guests will be begging for more.

Grilled Spiced Lamb Kebabs
Makes 16

16 small bamboo skewers, pre-soaked in water for at least 30 minutes

Lamb kebabs:
2 pounds ground lamb
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped, about 1 cup
4 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh mint
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon cayenne
Extra virgin olive oil for brushing

Garnishes and accompaniments:
Fresh mint leaves
Pita bread
Tsatsiki
Harissa sauce

Combine all the kebab ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Gather a small handful of the meat in your hand and form it lengthwise around a skewer so that the meat is covering 3/4 of the skewer. Place on plate or tray.
Repeat with remaining meat and skewers. Lightly brush the kebabs with olive oil. (The skewers can be assembled up to 6 hours in advance. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before grilling.)

Grill the skewers over medium-high heat or broil in the oven turning to brown all sides and cooked through the centers, about 10 minutes. Arrange on a serving platter and garnish with fresh mint leaves. Serve with pita bread, tsatsiki, and harissa sauce.

Italy, Main Course, Pasta, Wine and food pairings

Spaghetti alla Norma: Sicilian-Style Pasta with Eggplant, Tomatoes, Basil and Ricotta

June 4, 2009July 30, 2014by Lynda Balslev4 Comments

This divine Sicilian pasta dish often elicits the question: Who is Norma? Theories abound, and one of them is that the dish was named in honor of Bellini, a native of Catania, Sicily. Bellini’s opera “Norma” was so popular with his compatriots, that it inspired the creation of a new superlative – una vera Norma – to sing praise of any good deed or object. Years later, the author Nino Martaglio tasted this traditional dish from Sicily and was so delighted by it that he called in Spaghetti alla Norma. You will agree that this dish is una vera Norma.

Sicilian-Style Pasta with Eggplant, Tomatoes, Basil and Ricotta – Spaghetti alla Norma
Serves 4

1 large firm eggplant (aubergine)
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
I small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 28 oz./800 g. can Italian plum tomatoes
2 teaspoons dried oregano
Pinch of sugar

1 lb./500 g. dried spaghetti

1/2 cup shaved Ricotta Salata or Pecorino Romano cheese, plus extra for garnish
Handful fresh basil leaves
Fresh buffalo mozzarella, cut in slivers

Prepare the eggplant:
Trim ends. Cut horizontally in 1/4″ slices. Arrange in one layer on baking tray. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill in oven, turning once, until browned and softened. Remove. Cut the slices in thirds. Set aside.

Prepare tomato sauce:
Heat two tablespoons olive oil in skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and sauté until it begins to give off juices, about 2 minutes. Add garlic and sauté one minute. Add tomatoes with juices and oregano. Simmer 10 minutes, stirring to break up tomatoes. Add sugar. Stir in eggplant slices and simmer additional 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

While the sauce is cooking, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add spaghetti and cook until al dente. Drain. Return spaghetti to pot and add eggplant mixture. Add 1/2 cup ricotta salata. Toss to combine. Serve garnished with fresh basil leaves, slivers of buffalo mozzarella cheese and extra ricotta salata.