April 2009 – TasteFood

Retro-Classic: Butterscotch Pudding (or Custard?)

April 29, 2009July 28, 2014by Lynda Balslev6 Comments

One thing I enjoy most about the food blogging community is connecting with food bloggers from around the world. With all the travels and expat journeys I have experienced, I take great pleasure in reading food blogs from countries in which I have lived. I am taken back to the cultures, food and flavors of favorite cities, my memory jogged of the life I led in each place. And I feel as though I am catching up with an old friend.

One such blog is The Passionate Cook from England. Johanna and her lovely blog have been an inspiration to me since I started TasteFood last year. I enjoy reading her posts and recipes, and I am often reminded not only of my life in London some years ago, but also of Johanna’s home country, Austria, where I lived for a year during university. Another notable feature on The Passionate Cook is an event called WTSIM (Waiter, there is something in my…) that she co-hosts with Cook Sister and Spittoon. Each month, a particular theme is selected, and it is up to us bloggers to create a recipe around the new theme. So far, I have managed to miss each and every deadline, but this time around I am on top of it. The current theme is Retro-Classic, and I know exactly what I will make. Befittingly, I mentioned Butterscotch Pudding in a post I made a while back called Tea and Pudding, which reflected on – what else – moving to England. I referenced Butterscotch Pudding as a dessert from childhood, something that takes us back to our past, a comfort food – and a Retro-Classic.

Question: Is the proper British way of calling this dessert a Butterscotch Custard?

Butterscotch Pudding
Makes 4 large or 6 small portions

1-1/4 cup (300 ml.) whole milk
3 tablespoons cornstarch
2 large eggs
1 large egg yolk
4 tablespoons (60 g.) unsalted butter
1 cup (200 gr.) dark brown sugar, packed
3/4 cup (180 ml.) heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

In a medium bowl, combine 1/4 cup (60 ml.) milk and cornstarch. Whisk until combined and there are no traces of cornstarch. Whisk in eggs and egg yolk. Set aside.
In a medium saucepan, melt butter. Add brown sugar and cook, stirring, until sugar is melted and bubbly. Remove from heat. Add remaining milk and heavy cream in a steady stream to sugar mixture, whisking constantly, to combine. Stir in salt.
Return to heat and add cornstarch mixture, whisking constantly. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to simmer. Simmer one minute, whisking, until mixture thickens. Remove from heat. Whisk in vanilla extract.
Pour pudding into a serving bowl or individual glasses or ramekins. Chill at least 4 hours and up to 2 days. Cover puddings with plastic wrap to prevent skin forming if desired.
Serve with unsweetened whipped cream and toasted pecan nuts as garnish..

Fish and Shellfish, Italy, Main Course

Pesce al Sale – Whole Fish Baked in Sea Salt

April 25, 2009July 17, 2019by Lynda Balslev3 Comments

I often prepare a whole fish in sea salt when we entertain friends. This is a dish that is surprisingly easy to prepare despite its dramatic presentation. The entire fish is encased in sea salt, baked in the oven and presented whole at the table. Its hardened crust of sea salt and egg white is cracked open to reveal a succulent, steaming and aromatic fish. Have your fishmonger clean and descale the fish when you purchase it. The fish can be baked simply as is, or stuffed with a combination of lemon slices, garlic, and fennel fronds. Serve the fillets drizzled with your best extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of fresh lemon. It’s also a good time to break out the special sea salt flakes or fleur de sel that you may be saving for a special occasion.

Whole Fish Baked in Sea Salt – Pesce al Sale

Serves 6

One whole fish, 5 to 6 pounds, such as snapper, rock cod, or sea bass, cleaned, gutted, and scaled
1 lemon, sliced
2 to 3 fennel fronds, cut into 3-inch pieces
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
4 pounds coarse sea salt
2 large egg whites

Extra-virgin olive oil
Lemon wedges
Sea salt flakes
Parsley Gremolata (see below)

Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 450°F (225°C)
2. Pat the fish dry with a paper towel. Place the lemon slices, fennel, and garlic in the cavity of the fish, without over-stuffing.
3. Combine the salt and egg whites in a bowl and mix well to moisten the salt. Spread 1/3 of the salt mixture on the bottom of a large baking dish. Lay the fish on top. Pour the remaining salt over the fish, covering completely. (The tail can remain exposed if needed.)
4. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until an instant read thermometer reads 135°F. (If the fish is stuffed with lemon and fennel, it may require additional cooking time, approximately 10 minutes.)
5. Remove the fish from the oven and crack the crust open with a small hammer or knife. Remove and discard the crust. Lift away the skin and fillet the fish on one side, then flip the fish and repeat on the other side.
6. Arrange the fillets on warm serving plates. Drizzle with a little extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. Sprinkle with sea salt flakes and garnish with the parsley gremolata. Serve immediately.

Parsley Gremolata:
Combine 1/2 cup finely chopped Italian parsley, 1 minced garlic clove, and the finely grated zest of one untreated lemon in a bowl. Season to taste with a pinch of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

*This recipe was chosen as the winner in a competition hosted by Food52 and will be published in their upcoming cookbook. You can find this recipe and many other delicious recipes on their site, and have a chance to cast your votes for favorite recipes.

Desserts, England

Mixed Berry Trifle

April 21, 2009July 28, 2014by Lynda Balslev3 Comments

One of the best aspects of living in new countries is discovering and adopting the local cuisine. This is my version of a trifle, which, to me, is a quintessential English dessert – or as the English would say, a pudding. I was first served trifle by a new friend who invited us to a dinner party when we lived in London. It was beautifully presented in a large glass bowl showing off a stunning swirl of berries and cream. I also remember the appropriate ooh’s and aah’s that accompanied the presentation, punctuated by complete silence as everyone spooned into their luscious dessert.

Distantly related to a fool (a concoction of cream and fruit), the trifle has a history that extends as far back as the late 16th century. Variations exist, but suffice to say it is a sumptuous parfait of fruit and cream, rippled with layers of custard or curd, and laced with spirits or syrup. Best of all, trifle is a crowd pleaser, forgiving in its portions and ingredients, a do-ahead dessert that elegantly displays the season’s ripe fruit.

Mixed Berry Trifle
Serves 8-10

A combination of seasonal berries may be used. This trifle uses fresh raspberries, blackberries and strawberries. Begin preparing the trifle one day ahead.

For the lemon sponge cake:
1 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
5 large eggs, separated
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the lemon curd:
4 large eggs
3/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

For the syrup:
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons water

For the fruit and topping:
1/2 lb. fresh raspberries
1/2 lb. fresh blackberries
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons Cointreau or Framboise (optional)

1 lb. strawberries, hulled and halved

2 cups whipping cream
2 tablespoons sugar

Whole strawberries, raspberries or blackberries as garnish

Prepare the lemon sponge cake:
Preheat oven to 350 F.
Line a buttered jelly-roll pan with parchment paper; butter the parchment paper and dust the pan with flour, knocking out the excess. In a small bowl sift together the flour, salt and baking powder; set aside. In bowl of an electric mixer, beat together the egg yolks, sugar and lemon zest until the mixture is very thick and pale. Beat in the lemon juice and vanilla extract. Continue to beat the mixture for 3 to 5 minutes, until it forms a ribbon when the beater is lifted.

Add the flour mixture and mix until combined. In a clean bowl beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they form stiff peaks. Whisk one third of the egg whites into the batter to lighten it.

Fold in the remaining whites gently but thoroughly. Spread the batter evenly in the prepared pan. Bake in the middle of the oven for 10 – 15 minutes, or until the cake is golden and a tester comes out clean. Let the cake cool in the pan for 5 minutes. Invert onto a rack and discard parchment paper. Let stand uncovered, overnight to dry out. Cut the cake with a serrated knife into 2 cm. cubes.

Prepare the lemon curd:
This lemon curd uses the egg whites in addition to the yolks, resulting in a milder, less intense curd that does not overpower the trifle.
Whisk eggs, sugar and lemon juice in a heavy medium saucepan to blend. Add butter and stir over medium heat until curd thickens to custard consistency, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and stir in lemon zest. Press plastic wrap onto surface of curd and chill until cold, at least 4 hours. (Can be prepared 3 days in advance. Refrigerate until use.)

Prepare the syrup:
The syrup is a child-friendly variation of the spirits normally added to trifle. Substitute 1/3 cup Cointreau or Framboise for a more potent dessert.
Combine sugar, lemon juice and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Reduce heat and simmer 1 minute. Cool to room temperature.

Prepare the fruit:
Combine raspberries, blackberries, sugar and optional liqueur in bowl.
Mash with fork.

Let stand 30 minutes to macerate.

To assemble trifle, line bottom of a large glass bowl or 8-10 individual glass goblets (depending on size) with sponge cake pieces. Brush with syrup or spirits.

Spread 1/3 raspberry mixture over sponge cake; fill in gaps and line sides with strawberries. Top with 1/3 lemon curd. Repeat layering twice using 1/3 cake, syrup, 1/3 raspberry mixture and strawberries, and 1/3 curd. Cover and chill for at least 2 hours and up to 6.
Before serving, whip cream to soft peaks. Beat in 2 tablespoons sugar, taking care not to overbeat. Spread cream evenly over trifle. Arrange whole berries on top as garnish.

Appetizers, Barbeque, Fish and Shellfish, Greece, Grilling

Easy Entertaining: Grilled Salmon and Halibut Skewers

April 17, 2009July 28, 2014by Lynda Balslev3 Comments

It’s mid-April, Easter vacation, and when it rains it pours – luckily and figuratively – in the houseguest department. Who needs to go away during a school vacation, when you live in the San Francisco Bay area? There is no shortage of beaches and nature to explore, food and wine to taste, museums and city to walk, and it can’t get any better than with the streak of brilliant weather we have had this week. Besides, if we don’t go away, then those who do go away, come to us.

We are reaching the end of a week of playing tourist in our own backyard, hiking Pacific coastal trails, tasting Napa wine, window shopping in Union Square, and having our senses titillated in Chinatown. My brother and his family have come and gone and return again this evening after visiting Yosemite National Park for a 3 day excursion. While they were gone, the kids have had friends sleep over, and a good friend from our Geneva days came round for a dinner – she was in town for business and we had the chance to catch up after 10 years over good wine and food. Next week when we are back to our usual routine I will rest.

As you might imagine, the kitchen chez nous has been busy and continually re-stocked. And for last night’s dinner I prepared these lovely fish kabobs for easy, elegant entertaining.

Grilled Salmon and Halibut Skewers
Serves 6

For the marinade:
1/4 cup (60 ml.) extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml.) freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 medium yellow onion, grated, with juices
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt

3 lbs. salmon fillet and halibut filet (thick pieces), cut in 1″ chunks
1 large red onion, cut in 1″ pieces
1 large red pepper, cut in 1″ pieces
1 large yellow pepper, cut in 1″ pieces

Italian flat leaf parsley for garnish

Soak 12 wooden skewers in hot water 30 minutes before using.

In a large bowl combine marinade ingredients. Whisk together. Add fish to marinade and toss gently to coat. Refrigerate at least one hour and up to 4 hours.
Preheat grill or oven grill.
Remove skewers from water. Thread 4-5 pieces of fish on each skewer, alternating with pepper and onion pieces. Grill, turning, until fish is brown and just cooked through, 6-8 minutes.
Arrange on a platter, salt and pepper to taste, and garnish with parsley sprigs.

Appetizers, Vegetarian

Avocado Bruschetta with Balsamic Vinegar Reduction

April 14, 2009July 28, 2014by Lynda Balslev2 Comments

Avocados are plentiful here in California, and since we moved here, they are appearing with greater frequency in our kitchen. Avocados are the pear-shaped fruit of the avocado tree, and are grown in temperate climates around the world. California avocados were originally introduced from Mexico and can be found year round in the markets (or trees, if you should be lucky enough to have your own.)

Versatile and packed with nutrients the avocado is a healthy staple in the kitchen. They are packed with vitamins, minerals and fiber and high in monounsaturated fat. Avocados are rich in potassium, zinc, and B vitamins, as well as vitamins C, E and K. Their smooth texture and subtle flavor make the avocado a perfect base for dips, fillings, drinks and even ice cream.

Combined with other textures the avocado adds a distinctively creamy, cool and rich component to a dish. My favorite way to eat avocado is in salads or on toast, where the cool, creaminess of the avocado compliments the crunchy, savory textures of the salad or the dryness of the bread.

Avocado Bruschetta with Balsamic Vinegar
1-2 servings

2 slices peasant bread (pain paysan) or sourdough
1 large garlic clove
Extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup (60 ml.) balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
One ripe but firm Hass avocado
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Prepare bruschetta:
Preheat oven grill or griddle pan
Smash garlic clove with side of chef knife. Rub garlic over bread. Brush lightly with olive oil. Toast bread in oven or on griddle, turning once, until golden brown.

Prepare balsamic vinegar reduction:
In a small saucepan bring balsamic vinegar and lemon juice to a boil. Simmer until reduced by half. Set aside to cool.
Trim tip of avocado. Run knife vertically around center of avocado, cutting into flesh until knife meets the pit. Gently twist the avocado open and remove pit. Carefully remove skin, keeping avocado intact. Slice avocado horizontally in 1/4″ slices.
Fan avocado slices on bread. Brush with balsamic syrup. Sprinkle with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Desserts, gluten-free, Vegetarian

Strawberry and Mascarpone Cream Parfait with Balsamic Syrup

April 8, 2009July 28, 2014by Lynda Balslev5 Comments

It is strawberry season in our part of the world. The supermarkets and open air markets are displaying piles of luscious red strawberries, sweet and ripe, ready for eating. Before we moved here, our home was in Denmark, which would be considered (very) northern Europe. Summer is brief, and sunshine is not guaranteed. At this time, strawberries would be available, but were imported from France or Spain, as the Danish spring would still be in its early stages. Danish strawberry season is fleeting – primarily for the month of June – and for that one month we would gorge ourselves on strawberries. We would pick our own at the nearby organic farm, or stop at roadside rest areas where people would sell their garden harvests from backs of pick-up trucks and car trunks. While driving on country backroads, at the end of long rural driveways, we would find lone tables perched under tilted garden umbrellas shielding cardboard boxes of just-picked strawberries from the fickle Danish sun. We would select our strawberries and pay our money into an unmanned cash box – all transactions done on the honor system, of course.

For this one month (if we were lucky, and it wasn’t a rainy season) we would stuff ourselves with strawberries. We would eat them plain and with cream, in trifles and pavlovas, in fruit soups and salads. When we gave up because we couldn’t eat them as fast as they arrived, we would freeze them for later in the year, as a tease and a whisper of our summer past. And, finally, when we began to think that we couldn’t possibly eat another strawberry, the season would be finished. Another fruit would replace it as the star of the show, strawberries would shift to the background and fade to a memory of summertime. Until the next year.

This is a dessert I’ve prepared for dinner parties. It is more Italian in inspiration, easy to prepare and always a success, especially when prepared for my Danish family and friends who were weary of their more traditional Danish recipes:

Strawberry and Mascarpone Cream Parfaits with Balsamic Syrup and Mint
Serves 6-8

1/2 cup (80 ml.) balsamic vinegar
4 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

8 oz. (250 g.) chilled mascarpone cheese
2 cups (500 ml.) whipping cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 lbs. (1 kg.) strawberries, hulled and halved

6-8 whole strawberries
Fresh mint leaves
Lemon zest

Prepare the Balsamic Syrup:
Combine vinegar, 1 tablespoon sugar and lemon juice in small saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring until sugar dissolves. Boil until syrup is reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and cool completely. (Syrup can be made one day in advance. Cover and refrigerate.)

Prepare the Mascarpone Whipped Cream:
In a mixing bowl combine mascarpone cheese, whipping cream, 2 tablespoons sugar and vanilla. Beat until soft peaks form. Cover and refrigerate up to 4 hours.

30 minutes before serving, combine strawberries and balsamic syrup in a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon sugar. Toss gently to combine. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Divide half the strawberries among 8 glass goblets. Spoon half the cream mixture over the strawberries. Top cream mixture with remaining strawberries. Top with cream mixture. Drizzle with any remaining syrup.

Garnish with whole strawberries, grated lemon zest and mint leaves.