January 2009 – TasteFood

Linguine with Broccolini, Prosciutto and Red Pepper

January 28, 2009June 19, 2014by Lynda Balslev1 Comment

This recipe is quick to make and delicious to eat – perfect for an easy weeknight dinner. Not only that, it’s healthy too, packed with broccolini, a cruciferous vegetable and rich source of vitamin A and C, and sweet red pepper, a source of vitamin C and beta-carotene. Tossed with 2 cheeses, garlic and crispy, salty prosciutto this is a satisfying one dish meal. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Linguine with Broccolini, Prosciutto and Red Pepper
Serves 4

1 lb. (500 grams) linguine

1 lb. (500 grams) broccolini, ends trimmed, stalks and florets cut in 1/2″ pieces
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 oz. (180 grams) prosciutto slices, cut in 1/2″ dice
1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 red bell pepper, seeded, stemmed, cut in 1″ julienne
1 cup cherry or grape tomatoes, halved
3/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheeese
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Italian parsley leaves for garnish
Additional grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Prepare Pasta:
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook pasta according to package instructions, or until al dente. Drain.

While the pasta is cooking:
Heat one tablespoon olive oil over medium heat in a skillet. Add broccolini and sauté until cooked but firm to the bite, about 3 minutes. Transfer broccolini to a bowl and set aside.
Add diced prosciutto to skillet. Cook over medium heat until fat is rendered, and prosciutto begins to crisp. Transfer prosciutto to bowl with broccolini.
Add one tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, red pepper flakes, garlic to same skillet. Sauté until fragrant, about one minute. Add red bell pepper and tomatoes and cook, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes. Return broccolini and prosciutto to skillet. Stir to combine over medium-low heat, one minute. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Combine broccolini and pasta in large serving bowl. Add cheese and toss to combine. Adjust seasoning to taste.
Serve garnished with parsley leaves and extra Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Desserts

A Festival of Lemons

January 24, 2009June 19, 2014by Lynda Balslev1 Comment

To me, lemons symbolize early spring and a brightness at the end of a lingering winter season. Mind you, I live in California now, and our winter has been unseasonably warm and dry to this point, but as I think about lemons for a moment, I am transported back to Northern Europe where by the end of January, the dark and drizzle of the long winter season would be wearing thin. The knowledge of approaching spring and lengthening days would be shrugged off in a moment of impatience when we would impulsively book a quick escape in February to somewhere south in search of warmth and light. A favorite destination would be the south of France, for, while Scandinavia and the UK would be shrouded in chilly mist and shadow, our southern counterparts would be basking in sunshine, enjoying the blooming daffodils and mimosa, and partaking in the festivities of Carnival in Nice and the Fête du Citron in Menton.

Fête du Citron? Yes, that would be a Lemon Festival, and each year for 6 weeks from February to March, the city of Menton devotes a celebration to all things citrus and yellow. Situated halfway between Monte Carlo and the Italian border along the riviera, Menton is blessed with a warm micro-climate that is conducive to growing citrus. Its history of cultivating lemons dates back to the 15th century, and by the early 19th century Menton was a main exporter of lemons to Europe and America. Its prominence declined following a frost and increased competition from neighboring Italy and Spain, and, in 1934, the Lemon Festival was established in order to call attention to the replanting of Menton’s lemon trees and the re-establishment of their citrus production.

And what a festival it is. Over the course of 6 weeks the town has celebrations, parades, and fireworks. Lemons, lemons are everywhere. Parade floats are made of lemons, statues and decorations consist of lemons, food revolves around lemons, and tours and exhibitions are held throughout the city and at private estates to view lemon and citrus groves. Typically, this festival coincides with the Carnival celebration in nearby Nice, so If you happen to be in the area for this double whammy of festivals, you can rest assured that you will have your fill of sun, fun and celebration – a perfect antidote for the winter doldrums.

Now, for those of us far away from the village of Menton and unable to hop on a short flight to the south of France, a little imagination is necessary to visualize this event and transport ourselves away from snowdrifts and frigid temperatures. What I can offer you in tangibles, however, is the following dessert. This lemon tart is simple to make and very, very lemony. Its brightness is guarranteed to add a little sunshine to your day, wherever you are.

Lemon Tart – Tarte au Citron

Makes one 9-inch tart

For the pastry – Pâte Sucrée
1 1/4 cup flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
7 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut in 1/2″ pieces
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon ice water

Combine flour, sugar and salt in bowl of food processor. Add butter, using on/off turns until the mixture becomes crumbly.
Stir together egg yolk and water in small bowl. Add to flour mixture. Pulse until dough begins to clump together.
Press dough into bottom and up sides of 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Trim edges. Pierce crust all over with fork. Freeze 20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350 F. Line crust with foil. Fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake until crust is set, about 15 minutes. Remove foil and beans or weights. Continue baking until crust is lightly golden, about 20 minutes. Transfer to rack to cool while preparing the filling.

For the Lemon Filling:

6 egg yolks
2/3 cup sugar
3/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (2-3 lemons)
6 tablespoons butter, softened
pinch of salt
2 teaspoons lemon zest

In a medium sauce pan, combine egg yolks and sugar. Mix well to combine. Add remaining ingredients, except for the lemon zest. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. (Do not allow to boil or the mixture will curdle.)
When the mixture changes to a bright yellow color, and thickly coats the wooden spoon, remove from heat. Pour through a fine strainer. Discard the residue. Stir in lemon zest.
Pour the filling into the cooled tart shell; it will continue to thicken as it sets. Let it sit at least one hour. Serve at room temperature or cold.

Uncategorized

In Bed with Bouchon

January 19, 2009July 28, 2014by Lynda Balslev2 Comments

Yep, that pretty much sums it up. I am home sick, and I have spent a quiet morning in bed reading my Bouchon cookbook cover to cover. It makes for good reading. Not only are the recipes spot on and authentically French bistro cuisine, but the essays wonderfully articulate the essence, philosophy, and ambience of bistro cooking. It makes me very happy.

Actually, bistro food should make all of us happy. It’s comforting, generous, convivial, and unpretentiously rooted in French tradition. Interestingly, the excellence of Bouchon Restaurant has made it a destination of sorts requiring advance reservation, but typical bistro dining is accessible, local and immediate throughout France. Found in every neighborhood, soothing in its predictability, comfortably well worn in its ambience, and satisfying in its timelessness, the French bistro is a home away from home.

I became familiar with bistros when I lived in Paris and then Geneva. The bistro was the go-to restaurant for consistent, delicious, and fun food. Welcoming, bustling, and casually elegant, I knew what I could get – whether it was a date night or a group dinner, whether I was pregnant or with young children in tow. Now, years later, there isn’t a bistro in my neighborhood, and I don’t have a standing reservation at Bouchon, but I do cook bistro fare at home. It’s perfect for entertaining and families, and since my family was raised eating bistro food in Europe, it’s one of our preferred cuisines for home cooking.

Roast chicken is a staple in bistro cuisine. Inspired by recipes in both the Bouchon and Zuni CaféCookbooks, I roast the chicken in an oven-proof skillet in a very hot oven. Nearly an oven to table dish, all it requires is resting before carving and capturing the delicious juices from the bird for basting and serving. Save the bones to make chicken stock after the meal.

Roast Chicken
Serves 2-4

One 3-4 pound organic chicken
4 thyme, sage or rosemary sprigs
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Salt the chicken:
Rinse the chicken and pat dry thoroghly with kitchen towels outside and inside the cavity. Sprinkle all over with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Refrigerate up to 24 hours before continuing.

Preheat the oven to 450 F. (225 C.)
Slide your finger under the skin of each breast. Insert an herb sprig in the pocket. Repeat with the skin at the thighs.

Place chicken breast-side up in an oven-proof skillet or shallow roasting pan. Place the chicken in the oven. Roast 30 minutes, then turn chicken over breast-side down. Roast additional 20 minutes. Turn chicken over, breast-side up. Roast 10 minutes more or until done.
Remove from oven, baste chicken with juices. Transfer chicken to a cutting board, and let rest 15 minutes.

Pour fat from skillet, leaving drippings in pan. Pour any juices from resting chicken into pan. Add 1-2 tablespoons water or chicken stock into pan and deglaze. Keep warm.

Carve chicken and arrange on warm serving platter. Spoon juices over chicken.

Garnish with additional herb sprigs. Serve with a green salad and roasted potatoes.

Appetizers, Crostini, Vegetarian

Olivada

January 12, 2009by Lynda Balslev

This is one of my favorite staples to have on hand during the holidays, for entertaining and as an everyday condiment. Easy to prepare and versatile, Olivada is a simple blend of chopped olives, olive oil and ground pepper. Italian in name, Mediterranean in inspiration, there are many variations. Tapenade, the southern French version, includes anchovies. Other variations can include capers, roasted red peppers, artichokes, and sun dried tomatoes; there is no one way to make an Olivada. For me, I make a simple recipe with minimal ingredients. The key is the combination of olives. I use 3 types: a mild green, a mild black and a piquant Provençal. I find this gives a balanced result, not too salty or oily. The remaining ingredients are simple: garlic, toasted pinenuts and lots of freshly ground black pepper. The result is a delicious topping for crostini, a condiment for sandwiches or panini, and a garnish for lamb, fish and chicken. You can make a batch in advance and store it in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Serve for guests as an appetizer or for a family dinner. If there is still some left by the end of the week, toss the remainder with some freshly cooked pasta, buffalo mozzarella, fresh tomatoes and basil for an easy pasta dish.

Olivada
Makes about 3 cups

6 oz. (170 grams) pitted green Spanish or California olives, drained
6 oz. (170 grams) pitted black Spanish or California olives, drained
6 oz. (170 grams) oil cured Provençal olives, pitted
1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted golden brown
2 large or 3 medium garlic cloves
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Place all of the ingredients in bowl of a food processor. Pulse until well chopped. (Do not to over-process or the olivada will become a paste.)
Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate covered at least one hour before serving.
Serve with sliced baguette or crostini.
Olivada will keep up to 5 days in the refrigerator.

Tip: Try experimenting with different olives to get a balance of salt and intensity. And do not add any salt; the olives are naturally salty.

Appetizers, Football, gluten-free, Guacamole, Vegetarian

Nacho Night

January 7, 2009July 28, 2014by Lynda Balslev

It’s Nacho Night at our house. Yes, I confess. Foodie I may be, parent I certainly am, health minded almost always. But there is a time and place for nachos, and tonight is the night. Is it possible to call nachos healthy? I suppose, or, where there is a will there is a way. But if you bear with me a moment, I will try to list the merits of a homemade platter of nachos for an easy, family dinner. Or, rather, I will repeat the arguments my 13 year-old presented me with when he implored that we have nachos for dinner tonight. I fell for it.

These nachos are meatless. The chips are layered simply with grated cheese, green onions and black olives (deferring to the pickier sensibilites of my 10 year-old.) Grilled under the oven broiler until the cheese melts and the chips turn a bit brown, the nachos are then served with bowls of homemade guacamole and salsa on the side. Both of these sides are healthy, and loaded with veggies. I have tried different chips and prefer a good quality corn chip, but if you wish to up the ante, Trader Joe’s carries Flaxseed chips. They are as equally high in fat as regular chips, but offer the added flaxseed, and taste good to boot. Finally, nachos score big in the social department: Great for a crowd, family friendly, fun to eat, and just in time for the Superbowl. So, maybe not the healthiest, but they sure make up for it in the fun and camaraderie department. These days, this kind of fun eating is a bright spot in our day. Are you convinced yet?

Nachos with Guacamole and Tomato Salsa
Serves 4-6

12 oz. (350 grams) corn tortilla chips
3/4 lb. grated cheese (monterey jack, cheddar or combination)
1/2 cup pitted black olives, sliced
8 green onions (scallions), ends trimmed, finely sliced
1 fresh jalapeno pepper, stemmed, sliced thinly or 1/4 cup bottled, sliced jalapenos

On a rectangular baking sheet, or oven-proof serving platter arrange half the chips in one layer. Sprinkle with half the cheese. Cover with remaining chips in one layer. Sprinkle with half the remaining cheese. Evenly arrange olives, green onions, jalapenos over chips. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. Place under pre-heated oven grill. Grill until cheese is melted and bubbly.

Serve immediately with Salsa and Guacamole.

For the Guacamole:
Makes about 2 cups

1 small red onion, diced
1/2 small yellow onion, grated, with juices
1/2 red serrano chile pepper, stemmed, seeded, minced
1 clove of garlic, minced
2 ripe avocados
Juice of one lime
dash of hot sauce, such as Tabasco
1/4 cup chopped cilantro/coriander sprigs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a medium sized bowl combine onions, chile pepper, garlic, avocados, lime juice and hot sauce.

Mash avocados with a fork and mix ingredients together, keeping a lumpy consistency. Add cilantro and stir in. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Tip: Guacamole can be made up to 4 hours in advance. Cover tightly with plastic wrap to prevent discoloration. Also, try putting an avocado pit into the middle of the guacamole to help prevent discoloration.

For the Tomato Salsa:
also known as Pico de Gallo
Makes about 3 cups

1 1/2 cups pasata or tomato purée
3 plum tomatoes, seeded, diced
1 small red onion, finely diced
1 small yellow onion, finely diced
1 sweet red pepper, cored, seeded,finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 jalapeno pepper, stemmed, seeded, minced
1 serrano chile pepper, stemmed, seeded, minced
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro/coriander leaves
1 teaspoon dried cumin
Juice from 1/2 lime, about 1 tablespoon
1/2 teaspoon hot sauce, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Make the Salsa:
Combine all the ingredients in a medium sized bowl. Stir to mix well. Adjust seasoning to taste. Let sit at least one hour and up to 4 hours before serving.

Note: The ingredients and amounts are a general suggestion. Add or omit spices and chiles to your desired taste.

France, gluten-free, Main Course, Meat, Soups and Stews, Winter

A French Country Menu: Beef Bourguignon

January 4, 2009July 28, 2014by Lynda Balslev4 Comments

During the winter season I like to prepare rustic peasant-style food from the French countryside. These hearty dishes are made with staples from the land such as potatoes, root vegetables, bitter winter greens, cured meats and cheese. My favorite is Beef Bourguignon, a stew consisting of a tough cut of beef slow-cooked in Burgundy wine until falling-apart tender, mingling with carrots, onions and mushrooms in a rich, savory stock. It’s a delicious one-pot meal perfect for a cold night. Try to make it one day in advance, so the flavors can develop overnight, and then enjoy the meal before a roaring fire.

Beef Bourguignon
Serves 6-8

5 tablespoons olive oil
3 lbs. beef chuck, cut in 1 1/2″ chunks
Salt and pepper
1/2 cup cognac

4 large carrots
1 large yellow onion, cut in large chunks
4 large garlic cloves, smashed
1 – 750 ml. bottle full-bodied red wine
1 cup beef stock
1 – 6 ounce can tomato paste
2 teaspoons dried thyme

10 oz. (300 g.) pearl onions, peeled
1/2 pound white mushrooms, halved
1 tablespoon brown sugar

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat in a large oven-proof pan with lid or Dutch-oven. Season beef all over with salt and pepper. Working in batches, add beef to pan in one layer and brown on all sides. Transfer to a bowl. Add cognac to pan and deglaze pan over medium-high heat, scraping up bits. Allow to reduce by half. Pour cognac over beef and set aside.

Preheat oven to 325 F. (170 C.) Coarsely chop 2 carrots. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in same pan. Add chopped carrots, onion and garlic. Sauté 3 minutes over medium heat. Add beef, wine, stock, tomato paste, and thyme. (Beef should be covered by the wine and stock. If not, add more wine or stock to cover.) Bring to boil, reduce heat to low and cook 2 minutes. Cover and place in oven. Bake until meat is very tender 2 1/2 – 3 hours.

About 30 minutes before beef is done, cut remaining carrots in 1/2″ slices. Steam or blanch carrots until crisp tender; drain. Sauté mushrooms and onions in a skillet with one tablespoon olive oil until light golden brown.

Remove beef from oven. Strain liquid from stew into a saucepan. Separate meat from vegetables and discard vegetables. Boil liquid until sauce is reduced by 1/2 and has a sauce consistency, skimming fat from surface. Add sugar. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour sauce back over beef. Add carrots, mushrooms and onions to stock. Simmer 15 minutes. Serve.

Beef bourguignon can be prepared up to 2 days in advance. Cover and refrigerate. Remove solidified fat from surface before reheating. Reheat over medium-low heat on stovetop, or in a 325 F. oven.